996 drivers blessed with the M96 engine use a manometer. Search the 996 forum for manometer and you will find how to check crankcase vacuum.

 

Damn, I was in therapy for years over my last 996 and now you bring up manometer?!

 

Only update after tonight is I drove it, looked at a bunch of DME items, nothing really stands out. Fault counts still the highest on 4, with 8 next, I still dont know how to reset them, maybe disconnect the battery for a while? SO I can better track if they are all going up or only some.

I checked cat temps before and after using and IR gun, temps are higher after the cat as they should be. Trying to rule out clogged cats.

Its just off, even holding revs around 2000rpm, its rough, not normal, and driving is the same with the jerky, not smooth operation. Power can be strong, but its on - off power, hesitation.
I didnt drive my 18 there and back miles to work today, so will see how it goes tomorrow.

Maybe Ill just put the Bremi newer coils back in and check the plugs again. The prep for the intake to come off. After that I take it somewhere.

One other thought I had was to run some liquimoly engine saver to see if I can stop the oil in the cylinders if it is indeed the valve seals.

I do have an FVD Brombacher tune, that was a last resort, load back my original software and try that, but with that I suppose there is no connection to the increase in oil in the cylinders so it shouldnt make a difference other than back to stock power with the drivability issues.

 

https://rennlist.com/forums/996-foru...at-to-buy.html

 

Driving into work today, it feels like I have a high lift cam. Exhaust/engine doesnt sound smooth, normal. Im not pushing it so this is light throttle/acceleration. OR its just missing very bad on some cylinders.

Im gonna put the Bremi coils back in, to see if tis better or worse, and also swap the Bremi #2 (best) with #4 (worst) cylinders from plug inspection to see if the counts go down on 4 and up on 2. If I see an improvement, maybe I just need to try some new coils.

My other latest thinking is, its seems my boost is more responsive, not higher, otherwise I would be getting an overboost, just building boost quicker. I started looking what might cause quicker boost and it seems it could be cam timing or blocked cat causing back pressure.

I pulled some data from my scanner looking at cam timing. while cruising, my actual camsaft angles seem really high vs specified cam angle. I have no idea what the actual and specified cam angles should be, but I would assume whats being specified should be relatively close to actual, and mine are not. See 1st pic.
The readings are closer when at idle. Second pic

IS this normal or not. Are the cam sensors bad or stuck, is my timing chain bad and affecting the timing? Ill post a separate topic on this.


Asking myself how this relates to the oil on the plugs, maybe since its not running right, its not burning off the normal oil consumption issue I have and causing the plugs to not self clean as they have been for me in the past? My rearward plugs have always been worse than the forward ones, so thats still the same, just overall, all are worse than normal so poor running is not burning the oil enough as typically to keep things at bay.
Or its creating too high pressure or high vacuum in the crankcase, causing worse consumption.
Plausible?

Maybe crankshaft sensor is throwing both off? I see that related to the 1314 code I have last week, which hasnt come back yet.

 

I don't know what camshaft deviations for a Cayenne Turbo should be, but in a 997, 6 degrees is the threshold and some engine builders use 4 degrees as their threshold. That 7 degree may be out of spec. On a 997 that points to tensioner pad wear or bad tensioners.

 

Oil on the plug threads, maybe oil from before the cam tube seals were replaced. I would not get too distracted by it.

 

UPDATE:

I removed my older but relatively newer Beru coils I was trying out for a while, didnt seem to make a difference, and if anything maybe worse, lol.
Checked the plugs and they all looked pretty good after cleaning them last time. Im about 400 miles into the 5W40 valvoline oil change now, maybe its better at combusting in the chamber vs the redline 0W40??

I did however get better pics of the oil in the cylinder, and this time, in #4, its clearly leaking down from the top of the cylinder, i.e. the valves, not a streak left in a scored path.

Orientation is confusing, due to my crappy boroscope which uses a mirror on the end to see the sides, so up is really down, that is, top of the picture is down the cyl, and the bottom of the picture is the top of the cyl or bottom of the valve side/head side. I the second pic is I believe #7 cylinder, you can clearly see the drop and it stops there.
These are the exhaust valves, which of course are on the lower side of the head, again, a better place to pool oil that could run down.
Last pic is a valve, looks decently clean!

10,000 mile old Bremi coils back in, I also disconnected the battery overnight to reset the fault/misfire counter, which it did.
I took it for a 15 min or so drive, 1 fault count on #8 and 3 fault counts on #4. I swapped plug and coil on #2 with #4 too, and that didnt seem to make a difference, cyl 2 before had the least fault counts.

So for sure, some of my consumption is at least related to either valve steam seals/guides, whatever they are, or too much oll in the AOS system from poor running and getting run through the intake, but then again, Im seeing these drips of oil only when looking to the exhaust side, not the intake side of the cylinder. Another reason I get the puff of smoke on start up only.
How this relates to the poor running, im not sure, since the plugs upon checking today where not wet. Long term, yes, it fouls the plugs, like mine in the original post. Unless the oil fouled plugs shorted the coils, is that possible, I had seen some talk of it on the forums? Or, this is coincidental with another issues, which is probably the answer. Ive had the "normal" high consumption for a while, and its likely getting worse as the valve steam leaks arent going to fix themselves.

I did discover something, it ran better right off the bat from being cold on my test drive today, and once it warmed up, it was worse. I noticed this when leaving work yesterday too. The improvement is short lived. It doesnt run perfect when cold, but for sure better.

 

Hmmm, I'm not sure your conclusion is correct. In picture 2, the circled part is exactly what bore scoring usually looks like and the 2 additional lines with center reflective part would be deeper score lines.

Maybe not, but I think that wide area of what looks like fine vertical scratches are scoring marks.

 

I can't make a decision on bore scoring or not without a better picture, you definitely need a better camera. If it's the seals/guides you are going to get it on the Exhaust because for one, the valves get hotter and wear the seals more, the guides get hotter, and the exhaust valves are as you mentioned on the lower portion of the head on each side so oil in the top of the head is going to run down from the cams, followers, etc.... and there are areas it will pool in, doesn't all drain to the pan. Your lack of a sizeable amount of Aluminum or Iron in your Oil analysis has me doubting also, how long ago was the analysis? 996 Bore scoring and this was obviously serious. Small vertical lines in the cylinders of a Nikasil or Alusil cylinder are not that unusual at your mileage with Ring wear (Gap areas).

 

Petza, not saying those arent fine lines in the second pic, honestly its hard to tell. Not doubting like hahnmgh said, there are probably some faint lines at my cars mileage, but at least from my crappy camera, I could not see anything that looks like what is typically shown as bore scoring.
Also, the oil is clearly running downward, which is obvious from the drips stopping, and, the drip lines arent always straight, so not left behind in a straight score line, You can see that in both pics.
The pic you also circled on, thats from either cyl 6 or 7 ( I need better notes) which were cylinder without high fault counts like cyl #4 and the 1st pic.

So lets call it inconclusive on bore scoring, or at least identified some fine lines, but Im convinced there is oil leaking from the exhaust valves.

I still dont think this is creating my driveability issues, cause with new clean plugs, that are not fouled by the leaking valves or potential scoring, it should at least drive well for a while and then get worse. but thats not the case.

Im gonna test fuel pressure tonight, then Ill do a compression test, need to rent some tools from Autozone for both. My drivability issues seem like fuel pressure related as well.
I really want to get new coils to eliminate that (cause symptoms seem like it could be coils) but dont want to throw parts at it, and to me its not perfectly clear how to check them, wish there was something more conclusive, other than swapping what you think is a good one with what you think is a bad one.
Would bad fuel pumps or coils that are still working, just not optimally, get worse as things heat up?

My Foxwell is saying my battery voltage key on is 12.2-12.4 depending when I check, battery might not be all that great. Jumps up to 13.8 or so with engine running. Not sure this would explain my stumbling, etc. I can have Autozone use their load test thingy on it too.

hahnmgh, last UOA was 3000 miles ago, I should be getting back another one from the early drain on the redline, which was even more recent.

 

I've not heard of the coils you're using. I've only used Bosch, Beru, and recently got some from FCP for the Cayenne that said Borg Warner that worked fine. If put in new coils and plugs that don't come from eBay or Amazon or other discount parts places where they may not be legit parts. I'm also very happy with the mult ground electrode GTS plugs in running in my 957 Turbo S, though they're one heat range cooler and with your fouling issues may not be a good direction for you

 

The Bremi's are from FCP Euro, I figured they have the lifetime warranty, and to give another manufacturer a shot since the Beru's have a finite life. I never could really find anyone in the Porsche community, but saw positive feedback from BMW forums and the use of Bremi's.
Yeah, maybe they are junk! At least they worked well for 10,000 miles till recently, if they are the problem.

Right, I could benefit from the colder plugs in performance since Im running a FVD tune, but then they would foul easier.

 

Bremi is a longtime German parts company that supplies many OEM parts. OEM Cayenne Coils for I think all revisions, and there have been many are BERU's but I'm sure Bremi are good. They supply some of the original ignition parts on my older 964. Just new to the Cayenne Coil party, must see there is the need, hopefully better than the BERU's have been. At last count, Porsche is now on the 9th part # revision for the 955 V8's, the latest being 948-602-104-22
I did notice that Rennline is carrying Cayenne Coils. Don't know who makes them for them but of course they claim they are Performance coils with a better spark but they are competitively priced at $304 a set. It would be interesting to know who the manufacturer is.

 

I was just checking who had the best price on coils and saw those Rennline ones too. Just based off the pictures and color, they looked like Berus to me, but who knows.
if i get another set, i ll get from FCP cause of the lifetime warranty with the Bremis. Don't know how they will argue me that mine are bad if i return them, other than they are only 1 year 4 months old.

I do get totally different resistance measurements on the Bremis vs the Berus, something is different about them internally. The 4 electrics prongs are silver color on the berus, look copper on the bremis. Case is a shinny black on the bremis vs matte on the berus. Boots seem similar. Rubber seal at the top is slightly different.