Aluminum in oil 2010 Turbo S
#1
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So it looks like I messed up..
I bought a new to me 2010 CTTS with cranking issues and 150,000 miles. It takes quite a few cranks to start up, with camshaft codes, once it does, it drives great. Power seems to be all there. In the 2000 miles I put on it, it didn't use any oil. Borescope didn't reveal any bore scoring. But... I just got my oil analysis results and I'd say it's catastrophic. I found some metal shavings when changing the oil as well. Aluminum levels are triple the universal average. Iron is nearly double. Everything else is within normal. What am I most likely looking at? Bearings? Pistons? Timing chain?
I bought a new to me 2010 CTTS with cranking issues and 150,000 miles. It takes quite a few cranks to start up, with camshaft codes, once it does, it drives great. Power seems to be all there. In the 2000 miles I put on it, it didn't use any oil. Borescope didn't reveal any bore scoring. But... I just got my oil analysis results and I'd say it's catastrophic. I found some metal shavings when changing the oil as well. Aluminum levels are triple the universal average. Iron is nearly double. Everything else is within normal. What am I most likely looking at? Bearings? Pistons? Timing chain?
#3
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Engine sounds great, nice and quiet, pulls strong.
I don't know which oil was in it, I replaced with Liqui Moly, and I did add Mos2, which is same as ceratec just less concentrated as far as I know.
#4
Racer
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Do a leak down test and report back with results. Also, what cam codes?
#5
#6
Three Wheelin'
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With that mileage I would put it on a scope and measure the Timing syncronization. Could be a guide that has failed and the chain is wearing Iron (Steel) for sure and maybe rubbing the inside of a cover for Aluminum. Stop driving it as the metal in the oil isn't going to do you any favors, the filter doesn't get all of it.
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BobcatBrian (07-16-2024)
#7
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With that mileage I would put it on a scope and measure the Timing syncronization. Could be a guide that has failed and the chain is wearing Iron (Steel) for sure and maybe rubbing the inside of a cover for Aluminum. Stop driving it as the metal in the oil isn't going to do you any favors, the filter doesn't get all of it.
Post the UOA report and photos of the oil filter media layef out flat
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#8
Racer
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I was thinking chain guides as well, but wouldn’t that make a lot of noise at idle? If you have to pull the engine, do the mounts while you have access.
#9
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Was this a cold climate car at any time during its life?
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Badchoice (07-25-2024)
#10
Racer
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Bore scoring would be a very interesting data point with this being a 2010 model CTTS.
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19psi (07-16-2024)
#12
Three Wheelin'
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Jake Raby did say that Bore Scoring tended to start at the very bottom out of view of a bore scope then it would eventually work it's way up with use. He advocated pulling the pan and scoping from the bottom but that's obviously a big job. I think the Timing chain with that kind of mileage is still a good possibility and much easier to check and rule out. Either way it shouldn't be driven anymore if you hope to save the engine and it would help to post the Oil analysis as mentioned above by Petza.
#13
Race Car
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Scoping from the bottom is not possible on these V8's. The bottom of the crankcase is two pieces like a 928's V8.
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Badchoice (07-25-2024)
#15
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So, got the valve cover gasket off, and noticed these "scratches" on the cam itself! Could this be the source of my aluminum and iron in the oil analysis?? What could have caused this to happen in the first place?