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DIY THE **** EP. 1

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Old 05-17-2024, 08:29 PM
  #31  
Turbojordan23
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Originally Posted by thesteve
Did you read what theprf said about pin 15?

Well I got my plug yesterday via some weird Amazon-like courier who even took pictures at the door.
Anyway, I connected 3, 7, and 15 as was suggested. Then I fooled around with the software.



It looks like the "developers" are using a trojan exploit in order to spoof the registration somehow.
So there's a chance it isn't malevolent, but of course I'm not taking that risk on anything but a spare laptop with no personal data on it and the internet off (for now).
I actually had to completely uninstall my McAfee to stop the executable from being immediately deleted. Not like the old days where you can just right-click and disable.
After that even Windows Defender went and deleted it without even asking.
I don't want to get off-topic so enough of that.

So today at work during lunch I tried it with the car and eventually got it all installed.
It shows K2 short to ground unfortunately. I think this is because of the pin 15 jumper.
So in this state it seems the CAN bus doesn't work to auto-detect and a few other features.



Or maybe I have a problem with my canbus (?). Some have mentioned the aftermarket radio. Who knows. My canbus works and shows "2-wire operation" whatever that means.

Well after editing the text file so P-cars show up, I was able to select 9P for my 1st gen 9PA (03 turbo) and the full scan worked without a hitch and seemed to talk to everything it was supposed to.
Took 8 minutes I think.
I won't paste the whole log but it showed my VIN and mileage... the whole shabang I guess.

Good news is I found out which door thumb switch is bad. It's the Right Rear after all.



All of those other codes cleared, but the one that came back was the left rear module. Which explains another bit of bad behavior observed, where the alarm would arm, but leave that door unlocked. (And it seems to unlock a couple of times instead of once.)
It always shows as locked. Even after I unlock it. And it does lock and unlock... just always shows as locked though.
So yeah there can be multiple problems with these cars (not sure if whoever's seeing this read of my KESSY transistor / antenna saga).






Well I'm at the ground floor of learning how this VCDS works. Keep waiting for the airbag to blow up in my face.
Lots of fun though.
you get error once you connect jumper for 15. All horrible solders came apart and tried it without jumpers and it connect no problem. I would like to know how you edited file for P cars? I read a thread but haven’t really figured it out.
Old 05-17-2024, 08:38 PM
  #32  
thesteve
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Go to your C drive and open the Ross-Tech folder / then VCDS then look for and open the text file Autoscan.txt with notepad.
Scroll down to the Porsche models. You will see the line begins with a semicolon. Delete the semicolons, so that the lines look like all of the others.
Then save / close the text file.

Are you saying you got the error after jumpering pin 15? (or trying to)
Old 05-17-2024, 08:45 PM
  #33  
Turbojordan23
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Originally Posted by thesteve
Go to your C drive and open the Ross-Tech folder / then VCDS then look for and open the text file Autoscan.txt with notepad.
Scroll down to the Porsche models. You will see the line begins with a semicolon. Delete the semicolons, so that the lines look like all of the others.
Then save / close the text file.

Are you saying you got the error after jumpering pin 15? (or trying to)
yes got the error after tired 15 jumper… then tired with zero jumpers and it still connects to modules except for a couple.
Old 05-17-2024, 08:55 PM
  #34  
thesteve
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Awesome, thanks for the feedback.
Also, don't forget to have the key turned to the right (car on). To be sure, I had the engine running when I did the scan.

Old 05-17-2024, 09:30 PM
  #35  
thesteve
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I don't think we need pin 15.
If you read this post I think the 1st gens. only use a single K-line.
https://forums.ross-tech.com/index.php?threads/24368/

And if you look at this guy's connector, there's nothing connected to 15:
https://rennlist.com/forums/cayenne-...ring-help.html


I think I'll remove that jumper and try again.

Last edited by thesteve; 05-17-2024 at 09:33 PM.
Old 05-18-2024, 08:21 PM
  #36  
thesteve
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I cut the jumper to pin 15.
K1 and K2 now OK, but it still says CAN not ready.
I'm guessing this is normal, and I'm very happy.
Best $20 spent.
Old 05-18-2024, 09:29 PM
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Turbojordan23
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Originally Posted by thesteve
I cut the jumper to pin 15.
K1 and K2 now OK, but it still says CAN not ready.
I'm guessing this is normal, and I'm very happy.
Best $20 spent.
yeah says same with me also. Yeah definitely a deal for that price. I just got some more parts in so gonna try new valve block/ try to find if have shorts on driver side and also check level control module..

Last edited by Turbojordan23; 05-18-2024 at 09:30 PM.
Old 07-15-2024, 10:38 PM
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Update on my 957 turbo….. so since last time I was chasing my “chassis system fault”, got a VCDS and ordered new valve block for code I was getting.. found out valve block looked like had a burnt pin when I pulled it. So I replaced it with new one and cleared code… went for a drive and sport mode was reactivated and boy was I enjoying it for a solid 10 min… then “chassis system fault” returned. Figured it didn’t work, but when I checked code I was now getting a “front right dampening valve error”. Many searches on here for solutions and I’ve tried most I’ve found. Check for loose/ pinched/ cut plugs. Had level control module checked by Indy for resistance as explained on one thread I found. everything “fine” they said. Except they said my aftermarket front shocks may be to blame because they are Arnott and not OEM. I recently had front left replaced with upper control arm because was shot. Last owner had replaced front right with an Arnott so I just stuck with same. So decided to order another front right air strut since I didn’t really know how old it was. I was originally looking if the dampening valve could be purchased on its own but couldn’t find proper part number or anything.. long story short order new one and was actually able to remove dampening valve from new one and replace with existing one to see if this would actually fix code before I changed whole strut out… swapped it over cleared code and went for drive… sport mode working again but after going over some ruff roads “chasis system fault again”. Feeling defeated once again checked the code, and now it’s says front left dampening valve?!?!??!!
Old 07-16-2024, 03:56 AM
  #39  
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According to my user manual, the Red shock absorber "Warning chassis system" notice is caused by a greater than normal side tilt of the vehicle when cornering. I have this fault and quite some research it seems the four body accelleration sensors and the steering angle sensor are the inputs to the PDCC module. Surprise is that what I found with mine was the RH front PDCC anti roll bar lower link bolt had unscrewed itself and the front bar was no longer connected to the link on the RHS. So a non electrical cause perhaps. Just waiting on the new bolts to prove the theory.
I spent some time on scanners too as many of the scanners mentioned on here are not easily available. Threads Diagnostic Tool and VCDS how to, contain some of my observations.
I really think buying the real VCDS supports RossTech and all their development. The knock offs just ride on their coat tails. For those modules that VCDS reads in my GTS, it's great. The mod to use it doesn't require any soldering, just a movement of leads in the plug. I used an extender to keep the real VCDS lead unmodified.
Finally, I can't see any way VCDS will ever be able to interact with the Porsche specific modules. The development costs are huge and then someone just rips it off.
Old Yesterday, 04:25 PM
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Originally Posted by IchBautAuto
According to my user manual, the Red shock absorber "Warning chassis system" notice is caused by a greater than normal side tilt of the vehicle when cornering. I have this fault and quite some research it seems the four body accelleration sensors and the steering angle sensor are the inputs to the PDCC module. Surprise is that what I found with mine was the RH front PDCC anti roll bar lower link bolt had unscrewed itself and the front bar was no longer connected to the link on the RHS. So a non electrical cause perhaps. Just waiting on the new bolts to prove the theory.
I spent some time on scanners too as many of the scanners mentioned on here are not easily available. Threads Diagnostic Tool and VCDS how to, contain some of my observations.
I really think buying the real VCDS supports RossTech and all their development. The knock offs just ride on their coat tails. For those modules that VCDS reads in my GTS, it's great. The mod to use it doesn't require any soldering, just a movement of leads in the plug. I used an extender to keep the real VCDS lead unmodified.
Finally, I can't see any way VCDS will ever be able to interact with the Porsche specific modules. The development costs are huge and then someone just rips it off.
im not getting the red warning, I get the yellow chasis system fault with the symbol of the vehicle. When checking with VCDS i get these faults.. also tried to see what the various level sensors I could access are doing while car was on.

https://imgur.com/a/Fs2Leh3
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Old Yesterday, 10:43 PM
  #41  
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I find Porsche confusing at times. The Damper icon for all intent is PDCC related and the vehicle icon is pneumatic systems etc. Now I have that division in my own mind it makes life a bit easier when you don't get any DTC's recorded.
Old Yesterday, 11:19 PM
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Originally Posted by IchBautAuto
I find Porsche confusing at times. The Damper icon for all intent is PDCC related and the vehicle icon is pneumatic systems etc. Now I have that division in my own mind it makes life a bit easier when you don't get any DTC's recorded.
yeah I’m definitely on the confused train! I redid my height calibration cause car was looking off and I looked at the “height deviation” on VCDS and it was all over the place… After calibration it adjusted its self to the right height, thought it might have been my issue but after driving for 5 min same “front left damper error” came back.



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