Was having long start issues and pressure codes.
juat replaced the high pressure pump and still have long start.

fuel pressure is 3700-4100 Mbar

 

You can give it few hundred miles to see if it gets better or adaption via PIWIS might be needed.

 

How's your plugs?

 

When you open the driver's door the first time do you hear the fuel pump prime? Does your interior light come on when you open that door (does the car know that door has been opened)? It won't run the pump for subsequent openings within say 15 minutes, but it will do it the first time and again after a set amount of time goes by. This builds pressure in the fuel system so the car starts quickly once the key is turned.

 

Could it be your EVAP system? Are you getting any other codes? I agree with checking to see if your pumps are getting primed up as you open the door. Can you describe the long start?

 

Good point. Failed purge valve will do this too.

 

Thanks for the input. Coils and plugs are a few months old. I was getting a large leak code, but found the plastic vacuum tee that is right beside the vacuum pump was missing the cap.
I got it plugged.
Only code. I’m getting now is a cylinder five by misfire, but it hasn’t run that long so the EVAP may not have reset.
When I open the passenger door for the first time, the light comes on, but I don’t hear a fuel pump run

 

Pulled the coil and plug from cylinder 5
plug looked oily/gas covered.
put it back in and switched coil with 6... misfire moved. looks like a bad new coil in a couple months.

runs better but still rough and long start.

How can i test the other fuel pumps? im getting high pressure codes, but the HPFP is new.

 

duplicate post

 

Update

i just replaced both in tank pumps.

im still getting high pressure codes.

there is still an extended crank, shorter than before I believe.

my idle is more stable but when I give it a lot of throttle it dies….
anything above 1/4 throttle or above 2K rpm and it just looses power.

i cleared codes and when I apply full throttle it Boggs, stumbles and kicks high pressure fuel codes.. one of which is implausible value and the other is actually high pressure

looking at live data streams the high pressure is between 3800mbar and 5000mbar.

 

There are a lot of YouTube videos describing your issues. You may want to search youtube. One thing to note is that a bad FP sensor will also cause the car to run rough. The computer calculates how much fuel to allow through the injectors based on the pressure. If it thinks it has a high pressure the injectors will not open all the way because it thinks the pressure will force more fuel in with a smaller opening. In reality you are starving the engine.

 

would the readings on the data stream not reflect the bad sensors reading? I thought that is where the values came from.
I would think that if the sensor were bad, the data stream readings would be bad also.

 

Maybe BAD was the wrong choice for the word to describe a malfunctioning sensor. The sensor transmits an electrical signal to the computer. It is possible for one to not read correctly. It may be unlikely but I am just throwing some more possibilities out there.

 

I read something that caught my eye.

I read that the primary pumps produce the 50000mbar on their own..

when you rev the car the high pressure pump then should increase the pressure up to about 120bar.

the poster was saying that since his car stayed at 50000mbar when the rom increased it was due to the car running from the primary pumps only.

i bought a reman’d high pressure pump. Could this be my issue, that the high pressure pump isn’t producing the required pressure ?

 

I recently replaced mine with an OEM reman pump. The one I removed appeared to be a cheaper “eBay” reman pump.

From the diagnostic I did before I replaced it, the eBay pump could build pressure just fine, but it had issues consistentily regulating the pressure. If I had to guess one of the internal check valves was leaking and the computer was constantly chasing the setpoint.

Before I replaced the HPFP, I literally did everything possible to avoid it. Purge valve, Vacuum pump, intank pumps, plugs/coils, etc. While the vehicle ran better overall, nothing fixed the long crank until I replaced the HPFP. Now when I turn the key, it fires in less than one revolution of the crank. It’s nearly instant.

That being said. If you didn’t buy the really expensive OEM pump, I wouldn’t trust the pump you purchased.