AeroStress

I saw a couple good threads (linked below) that discuss engine mount replaced, but they are the also for the S version I believe. For the base, it looks pretty similar, but a few questions:

1. I was thinking of using this engine support bar, but I can only see one hook up point that is towards the front passenger side. Therefore it would be unbalanced. But I can also support it from the bottom side as well. Should I do both engine support bar and bottom support with a jack?
2. Exactly where the bolts on the subframe that need to be removed (in the front) and loosened (in the back). TBH, I am not even sure which part is the subframe (though I think I do). I took some pics during the last oil change and can upload them.
3. The passenger side mount looks accessible from the top. The driver side...not so much. But I think if I remove the airbox it will be a different story. Overall, it doesn't seem too difficult if I can get the bolts loose. Would it be worth it to put a liquid penetrant in the nuts/bolts the night before?
https://rennlist.com/forums/cayenne-...ng-down-3.html

https://rennlist.com/forums/cayenne-...-mounts-2.html

Porsche957

I just did this job on a 957 base model a month ago and you don’t need the bar and mess with subframe mounts. It’s super easy and takes 1-2 hours at most. At the transmission bell housing there is 3 rubber plugs, remove them. Put a block of wood and scissor jack or similar jack. Remove bolts and replace mounts one at a time. Taking the plastic beauty trim in the engine bay and splash shields below the car took as much time as changing the mounts. Done…

AeroStress

So it is easier because it is a base Cayenne? That seems quite easy compared to the other threads. Do you put the jack on the transmission bell housing?

Also, did you use the Corteco mounts or the Porsche mounts? I was going to use the Porsche mounts if its a more difficult job, but it if its not too bad, I would take the risk of using the Corteco (since they could be then be replaced easily).

Porsche957

Yes. Use a block of wood or rubber mount etc at transmission bell housing. Remove the 3 rubber plugs, they just pull out.

I got corteco mounts from fcpeuro. They are the EXACT same ones from Porsche dealer. You can see where they grounded the vw logo. All other markings 100%. I got the kit that includes new nuts and bolts. Don’t jack up the motor too high or the back of the valve cover will hit the firewall.

AeroStress

Great, this helps a lot. I usually use a hockey puck and was planning on using that instead of wood. So the reason this works is because there is more clearance to jack up the motor than for the S version? This would be great since I really don't want to mess with the subframe.I am used to removing the bottom shields for oil changes so no big deal there. I think I will try just the passenger side first since the bolts/nut seem more accessible. I guess breaking them loose would be the first thing to do right...just to make sure you don't get stuck later down the road.

Ericson38

We have a 957 Base with 160K miles. What issues were you having with the original mounts?

AeroStress

In my case, it is just vibration at idle. Not a problem when the engine is about 1k rpm or higher though. I think it started around 120k and is pretty bad now at 190k. I figured it was the engine mounts and the shop said so as well.

Porsche957

yes a hockey puck will work. You will need a scissor or bottle jack. My floor jack was in the way of me working. Yes you can loosen all the bolts before jacking up the motor. That’s what I did. And yes I did the passenger side first because there is more room. The mounts come out from the bottom. For the driver side you will need a very long extension and wobble socket

Porsche957

for me, when doing oil changes, I looked at the white sticker and noticed the mounts are original from 2008 and it has 170,000 miles on them. So I figured I replace them to make the car smoother. It did improve it a little.

my wife Lexus RX is super quiet and smooth to the point you can’t hear or feel it. I was trying to get to that standard but I just don’t think the vr6 was designed to be. I did engine mounts, tranny mount, spark and coil packs, added ceratec etc. it runs good but still not as quiet or smooth as my wife Lexus.

Ericson38

Thanks for the responses. Ours is smooth, maybe even smoother than the 90 deg V6 Turbo (with balance shafts) in our 2019 Panamera (which has new motor mounts-duh), but the VR6 is not as smooth as a straight up inline 6, or flat 6.

I ran 4 bottles of Max Clean Fuel injector cleaner through ours, since at 160K miles, the DFI injectors could be a little dirty. This was last year, and the engine got smoother.
To keep the fuel pumps alive, I use top end oil.

AeroStress

For the picture below, is the jack point where the triangular ribs are (is this the bottom of the bell housing?). I didn't see any rubber plugs, but there are 3 holes there so it makes me wonder if they are just missing? Oh, btw...automatic transmission.

Porsche957

yes that’s it. And yes your 3 plugs are missing

out If curiosity, what are you other 957 3.6L guys getting for mpg? I get 14 ish mpg, I think it’s too low.

AeroStress

Thanks. I get right about 14mpg as well. Few more questions:

1 - Do you know the torque specs for the nut and the two bolts? I loosened the passenger side and they weren't on as tight as I thought.
2 - Can the passenger side be done without removing the wheel well liner? Looks like it?
3 - For the driver side, do you access the engine mount nut/bolts from the wheel well? It doesn't look like I can get in there from the top, even with the airbox removed.
4 - Any idea what those plugs are called or what the part numbers are? I can't seem to find anything on them.

Porsche957

I don’t know the torque but mine was not that tight as well. I just hand tightened with ratchet.

no you do not need to remove wheel liner, it comes out from the bottom of the car. Both do.

drivers side is easy but 2 man job. Use 14 mm and a wobble socket you will need about 2 ft of extensions. Then have one person hold the ratchet and extensions in place and another person on the bottom guiding the socket onto the bolt. Just don’t let the extensions touch the alternator bolt.

no idea what the part numbers are or what they are called for those plugs. I’m sure it’s the same as on a vw Touareg thought.

AeroStress

I got the job done. I think there was a lot of pressure up against the firewall to get them to clear...hopefully nothing was damaged. If I had to do it over again, I like the approach of using the transmission as the jack point, but I think I would have loosed the subframe bolts to get a little extra clearance (just so everything didn't go so jammed against the firewall).

In the end, it was worth it. Everything is nice and quiet now. Actually, quieter than when I first bought it with 80k miles. I had always wondered why it was a little rough even though the tach was stable. Eventually it got to the point where it was obviously the mounts.