Scored cylinders? What to do? Options?
#1
Scored cylinders? What to do? Options?
So, pretty sure I have this and I am assuming the worst. 2009 Cayenne turbo s, had it since 30k, has about 75k on it now. Car has sat since January. Just started it up and loud tick lifter type noise from the driver's side. Def not fuel injectors, I took a screwdriver to listen sounds like it is around the pcv on the valve cover.
Always change the oil every five k, would maybe burn 1/4 of a quart between changes.
I have a good Indy, what is my best bet assuming this is it?
Does the engine have to come out to remove the heads and get them all re-sleaved?
What am I looking at for ballpark hours of work, parts and sending the heads off?
I hear 928 is good? Is boring even an option?
Always change the oil every five k, would maybe burn 1/4 of a quart between changes.
I have a good Indy, what is my best bet assuming this is it?
Does the engine have to come out to remove the heads and get them all re-sleaved?
What am I looking at for ballpark hours of work, parts and sending the heads off?
I hear 928 is good? Is boring even an option?
#2
I've never heard of an '09 scoring a cylinder. If it really sat for nearly 8 months, it may actually be a lifter that leaked down and that usually corrects itself after some run time.
Could be several other things too and I wouldn't assume the worst on an '09.
If it is cylinder scoring, you'll need to read up on your options. You're not sending off the heads. The engine is dropped out the bottom, stripped down the the block and then the block is sent out. There are endless threads on the subject and no matter how you go about it, it won't be cheap.
Could be several other things too and I wouldn't assume the worst on an '09.
If it is cylinder scoring, you'll need to read up on your options. You're not sending off the heads. The engine is dropped out the bottom, stripped down the the block and then the block is sent out. There are endless threads on the subject and no matter how you go about it, it won't be cheap.
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deilenberger (07-24-2020)
#3
I've never heard of an '09 scoring a cylinder. If it really sat for nearly 8 months, it may actually be a lifter that leaked down and that usually corrects itself after some run time.
Could be several other things too and I wouldn't assume the worst on an '09.
If it is cylinder scoring, you'll need to read up on your options. You're not sending off the heads. The engine is dropped out the bottom, stripped down the the block and then the block is sent out. There are endless threads on the subject and no matter how you go about it, it won't be cheap.
Could be several other things too and I wouldn't assume the worst on an '09.
If it is cylinder scoring, you'll need to read up on your options. You're not sending off the heads. The engine is dropped out the bottom, stripped down the the block and then the block is sent out. There are endless threads on the subject and no matter how you go about it, it won't be cheap.
Lifters won't hold pressure for 8 months. I hope you had fuel stabilizer in the gas too.
Drive it some and see if it goes away. Should correct itself on the first drive if a lifter.
What kind of oil have you been using and what change interval?
#4
I wouldn't panic just yet. As Pete suggested, try driving it a bit (carefully) and see if the noise goes away. Cylinder scoring doesn't get that loud overnight, and the downtime is clearly a factor for the change in engine behavior.
#5
Thanks Guys,
It's like webmd, I ran the car for < than 5 minutes and started listening to youtube vids that had the noise exact same spot, maybe they had both lifter and bore scoring, but I couldn't tell the difference.
I have to double check on the oil, too many cars, but it's always been the factory recommenced 0W-40 Mobil 1, at least since when I got the car at 30kish. I am due as I have 4780 miles since last change and car was getting daily rush hour traffic workouts until the pandemic.
Last night I was assuming as much that it would need a few seconds to get the oil back up from the sump to the galleys for the lifters. I let it run for 3 to 5 minutes assuming heat would help, but it didn't get better (or worse) so I said oh well, googled it and went to sleep and posted this This was after 2 hours of putting my intake back in after changing my oil pressure sensor and I was dead tired.
This morning, started it up and all noises are gone. Took for a 20 minute ride, no faster than 35 and was gentle, ran it through the touch-less car wash (Still had January road grime all over it ) and ran fine back home for another 20 minutes.
Good news is my oil pressure light is not constantly going on and off.
Didn't intend to let the car sit this long but life got in the way and it was apart, waiting for parts from Germany, Lack of time, etc.
Car has been paid off a few years, so was not so much worried about dumping money, as this is not an investment, but I honestly can't think of another SUV I would want for a daily driver.
So should I just do an oil change and count my blessings? Old Oil (its not that dirty, still gold colored) gunked up a bit?
It's like webmd, I ran the car for < than 5 minutes and started listening to youtube vids that had the noise exact same spot, maybe they had both lifter and bore scoring, but I couldn't tell the difference.
I have to double check on the oil, too many cars, but it's always been the factory recommenced 0W-40 Mobil 1, at least since when I got the car at 30kish. I am due as I have 4780 miles since last change and car was getting daily rush hour traffic workouts until the pandemic.
Last night I was assuming as much that it would need a few seconds to get the oil back up from the sump to the galleys for the lifters. I let it run for 3 to 5 minutes assuming heat would help, but it didn't get better (or worse) so I said oh well, googled it and went to sleep and posted this This was after 2 hours of putting my intake back in after changing my oil pressure sensor and I was dead tired.
This morning, started it up and all noises are gone. Took for a 20 minute ride, no faster than 35 and was gentle, ran it through the touch-less car wash (Still had January road grime all over it ) and ran fine back home for another 20 minutes.
Good news is my oil pressure light is not constantly going on and off.
Didn't intend to let the car sit this long but life got in the way and it was apart, waiting for parts from Germany, Lack of time, etc.
Car has been paid off a few years, so was not so much worried about dumping money, as this is not an investment, but I honestly can't think of another SUV I would want for a daily driver.
So should I just do an oil change and count my blessings? Old Oil (its not that dirty, still gold colored) gunked up a bit?
#6
I'd suggest (and I rarely do this..*) adding a bit (maybe 6-8 oz.) of Marvel Mystery Oil (magic oil) to the current oil and go drive it for 100 miles. Then change the oil. In my experience, MMO has always cleared sticky lifters.
* = suggest using an additive, but I have found a few that worked for what they were designed for, and MMO is a "top-end" lubricant - a light oil meant to penetrate things like sticky lifters. It's been around forever and I've never seen it be the subject of a class-action lawsuit which to me means it's harmless.
* = suggest using an additive, but I have found a few that worked for what they were designed for, and MMO is a "top-end" lubricant - a light oil meant to penetrate things like sticky lifters. It's been around forever and I've never seen it be the subject of a class-action lawsuit which to me means it's harmless.
#7
Thanks Guys,
It's like webmd, I ran the car for < than 5 minutes and started listening to youtube vids that had the noise exact same spot, maybe they had both lifter and bore scoring, but I couldn't tell the difference.
I have to double check on the oil, too many cars, but it's always been the factory recommenced 0W-40 Mobil 1, at least since when I got the car at 30kish. I am due as I have 4780 miles since last change and car was getting daily rush hour traffic workouts until the pandemic.
Last night I was assuming as much that it would need a few seconds to get the oil back up from the sump to the galleys for the lifters. I let it run for 3 to 5 minutes assuming heat would help, but it didn't get better (or worse) so I said oh well, googled it and went to sleep and posted this This was after 2 hours of putting my intake back in after changing my oil pressure sensor and I was dead tired.
This morning, started it up and all noises are gone. Took for a 20 minute ride, no faster than 35 and was gentle, ran it through the touch-less car wash (Still had January road grime all over it ) and ran fine back home for another 20 minutes.
Good news is my oil pressure light is not constantly going on and off.
Didn't intend to let the car sit this long but life got in the way and it was apart, waiting for parts from Germany, Lack of time, etc.
Car has been paid off a few years, so was not so much worried about dumping money, as this is not an investment, but I honestly can't think of another SUV I would want for a daily driver.
So should I just do an oil change and count my blessings? Old Oil (its not that dirty, still gold colored) gunked up a bit?
It's like webmd, I ran the car for < than 5 minutes and started listening to youtube vids that had the noise exact same spot, maybe they had both lifter and bore scoring, but I couldn't tell the difference.
I have to double check on the oil, too many cars, but it's always been the factory recommenced 0W-40 Mobil 1, at least since when I got the car at 30kish. I am due as I have 4780 miles since last change and car was getting daily rush hour traffic workouts until the pandemic.
Last night I was assuming as much that it would need a few seconds to get the oil back up from the sump to the galleys for the lifters. I let it run for 3 to 5 minutes assuming heat would help, but it didn't get better (or worse) so I said oh well, googled it and went to sleep and posted this This was after 2 hours of putting my intake back in after changing my oil pressure sensor and I was dead tired.
This morning, started it up and all noises are gone. Took for a 20 minute ride, no faster than 35 and was gentle, ran it through the touch-less car wash (Still had January road grime all over it ) and ran fine back home for another 20 minutes.
Good news is my oil pressure light is not constantly going on and off.
Didn't intend to let the car sit this long but life got in the way and it was apart, waiting for parts from Germany, Lack of time, etc.
Car has been paid off a few years, so was not so much worried about dumping money, as this is not an investment, but I honestly can't think of another SUV I would want for a daily driver.
So should I just do an oil change and count my blessings? Old Oil (its not that dirty, still gold colored) gunked up a bit?
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Motul (07-27-2020)
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#8
Yep, I'd just do an oil change. Unless you live where it's really cold in the winter I might also suggest moving to a 5W/40 oil for better film strength protection on start up. My oil of choice for 5W/40 is Driven DT40 with high Zinc and Phosphorous content. Another decent choice is Motul 8100 xcess. I've used Mobil 1 in the past and thr UOA reports showed it not to hold up nearly as well as these others beyond 3,000 miles.
+1 on the Motul. I used Mobil 1 for decades in my 911s and then switched because of the propensity for Mobil 1 to absorb moisture. On a turbo engine like in the CTTS, the Mobil 1 seems to break down very fast and even smells "cooked" after a couple thousand miles.
My oil change interval using Motul is 4-5k on my 2009 CTTS depending on my driving. Most of my miles are on long-distance runs over the mountain passes and very little city driving.
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Motul (07-27-2020)
#9
I would throw in couple cans of CeraTec with your next oil change, fantastic stuff. I like Amsoil 5W-40, I have not used Motul, but Amsoil made a noticeable difference for me (after many years of Royal Purple), I have never experienced with any other oil. So much smoother and quieter.
#10
I'd suggest (and I rarely do this..*) adding a bit (maybe 6-8 oz.) of Marvel Mystery Oil (magic oil) to the current oil and go drive it for 100 miles. Then change the oil. In my experience, MMO has always cleared sticky lifters.
* = suggest using an additive, but I have found a few that worked for what they were designed for, and MMO is a "top-end" lubricant - a light oil meant to penetrate things like sticky lifters. It's been around forever and I've never seen it be the subject of a class-action lawsuit which to me means it's harmless.
* = suggest using an additive, but I have found a few that worked for what they were designed for, and MMO is a "top-end" lubricant - a light oil meant to penetrate things like sticky lifters. It's been around forever and I've never seen it be the subject of a class-action lawsuit which to me means it's harmless.
I don't mind wasting $20, but would really like to hear some feedback from folks for anything that may dissolve, not loosen any gunk in there, obviously don't want to break any plaque loose and cause a clog!
I have always been very skeptical of these products, looking for solid proof they work.
#11
That's great news about the noise going away!
+1 on the Motul. I used Mobil 1 for decades in my 911s and then switched because of the propensity for Mobil 1 to absorb moisture. On a turbo engine like in the CTTS, the Mobil 1 seems to break down very fast and even smells "cooked" after a couple thousand miles.
My oil change interval using Motul is 4-5k on my 2009 CTTS depending on my driving. Most of my miles are on long-distance runs over the mountain passes and very little city driving.
+1 on the Motul. I used Mobil 1 for decades in my 911s and then switched because of the propensity for Mobil 1 to absorb moisture. On a turbo engine like in the CTTS, the Mobil 1 seems to break down very fast and even smells "cooked" after a couple thousand miles.
My oil change interval using Motul is 4-5k on my 2009 CTTS depending on my driving. Most of my miles are on long-distance runs over the mountain passes and very little city driving.
#12
Yep, I'd just do an oil change. Unless you live where it's really cold in the winter I might also suggest moving to a 5W/40 oil for better film strength protection on start up. My oil of choice for 5W/40 is Driven DT40 with high Zinc and Phosphorous content. Another decent choice is Motul 8100 xcess. I've used Mobil 1 in the past and thr UOA reports showed it not to hold up nearly as well as these others beyond 3,000 miles.
#14