dustinsc

I just bought a Durametric to help me with my CTT (2005, 198k miles). I have several things to fix, now confirmed by the fault codes. I'm going to document the fixes here, and I'd appreciate any advice people have. Here's the list:

- Getting Durametric working on a Mac reliably
- Air Suspension issues- Keyless entry issues- Towing system problems- Oil leakWhew!

dustinsc

driving across the desert

Skiing


oil leak out the top

oil leak out the bottom

Petza914

The oil leak also looks like it's on the Driver's side rather than the passenger side. When was the last time you emptied the driver's side intercooler where oil from the crankcase ventilation system condenses in there - usually that results in smoke out the back though, not actual oil leaking, unless it's really full.


Also, not sure how you'll get Durametric working well on a Mac when their system requirements state it needs to run on the Microsoft Windows platform.

dustinsc

Thanks Petza914 - It is on the driver's side. I corrected the original post.
To diagnose the oil leak, I removed and cleaned the driver's side air filter housing, wheel well cover and intercooler hoses. There was a huge amount of oil in the intercooler hose. I cleaned off the turbo and all the stuff around that which was covered with oil/dirt, and reinstalled everything. That's when I could see that oil is dripping Onto the serpentine belt from here:


Oil is also being sprayed onto the heat shield on the air filter housing. I don't see any leaks further back in the engine, and no smoke or smell of burning oil.

dustinsc

With Durametric, I tried it first with my mac using VirtualBox, and that half-worked. I could see engine and transmission codes, but nothing else. I installed BootCamp, so I can boot my mac directly into Windows 10, and now it works great.

Petza914

Nice job on that workaround. You should let Durametric know. Maybe they'll add a note to the system requirements.

dustinsc

The oil leak is fixed. Halelujah!

1. removed the valve cover
2. removed the cheap ebay valve cover gasket (Doh!)
3. cleaned the head mating surface very well with acetone
4. put a small blob of Permatex Ultra Grey at the points where the timing chain cover meets the head
5. put a fine layer of Permatex Ultra Grey on the front half of the head mating surface
6. put a new valve cover gasket from Pelican into the valve cover
7. replaced the valve cover, tightening the bolts barely finger tight
8. waited an hour
9. torqued the valve cover bolts to 7.5 ft/lb.
10. Dang! The valve cover bolt hole at the very front of the engine is stripped. Well, if it becomes a problem, I'll deal with it then.
11. Waited a full day
12. Started engine, and no more oil leak.

If the stripped bolt hole becomes a problem, the only option that I know is to drill it, tap it to a larger size, and then get a bolt to fit. Any suggestions for sources for a larger thread valve cover bolt?

Petza914

Sometimes there's more depth to the hole than the current bolt threads engage with. If you do end up having to pull the bolt, check the hole depth with a digital caliper and see if there is extra thread length left in the hole that a longer bolt of the same size could engage with. Those bolts require so little torque that just a few threads would probably hold it without having to drill it out.

hatchetf15

...and if that doesn’t work for your situation, put a Heli-Coil insert in there. That’ll work fine for the valve cover.

dustinsc

Thank you for the suggestions on the stripped bolt hole. I haven't had a single drop leaking for more than a week, so I'm going to leave that alone. But, if or when it leaks again, I'll have options.

dustinsc

This morning I replaced the rear air suspension pressure holding valves (95535873000/02).

1. put the air suspension in "regulation off" mode by pushing the suspension mode switch up for 10 sec after turning on the ignition.
2. put the rear of the car on jack stands
3. I removed one of the wheels, but it didn't make it any easier for this job, so I didn't remove the other.
4. remove the air hose from the valve with 12mm open-end wrench. It is very tight in there, so this isn't easy, but it's not too bad. It isn't very tight. It is a little unnerving to have the air escape while loosening this.
5. remove the air valve using special tool T10158/1. It was definitely worth the $30 for that tool. More air escaped while loosening and removing this. Interestingly, the wheel lifted a little when the air escaped. I guess that makes sense - the pressurized system was pushing the shock down, so without any pressure, it will lift a little.
6. I left the old compression fitting on the hose and just replaced the o-ring with the new one supplied.
7. installed the new air valve. I couldn't get much torque on this to tighten, but it wasn't very tight to start with, so I'm sure that's fine.
8. installed the hose compression fitting. I couldn't get much torque on this to tighten, but it wasn't very tight to start with, so I'm sure that's fine.
9. replaced wheel, torqued lug nuts, took car off jack stands. The rear end was so low that I couldn't remove the jack.
10. started the car, and canceled "regulation off" mode by pushing the suspension mode switch up for 10 sec.

Now the air suspension works again! Another item checked off the list.

Thanks to TomF and MuffinMan in this thread: https://rennlist.com/forums/cayenne-...-question.html

jeff spahn

don’t put a helicoil in. Put in a time sert.

Stringbag

Do a search for kessy issues.
unlikely to be antennas, more likely either door handles or the mosfets in the control unit.

dustinsc

Down to two issues:

1. Air quality sensor is bad. Durametric shows 1592: Air quality sensor Faulty. I unplugged it (under the plastic panel under the hood on drivers' side near the windshield next to the fuse box) and now I'm getting 1592: Air quality sensor Open circuit/short circuit to B+. Apparently, this sensor detects when the outside air is too polluted, and responds by closing the fresh air flap - putting the ventilation system in recirculate mode. It is part number 7L0 907 643. About $130 new or $40 on ebay. Before disconnecting it, I could hear the fresh air/recirculate flaps cycling every 30 minutes or so when the AC is on. This is pretty low priority for me. Mostly just my OCD to get all the codes cleared.
2. I have entry-and-go, and all door handles/key fobs/everything works great with two exceptions:
   • Very occasionally - maybe twice a month - after or while starting the car, it will beep at me and have a message, "Key cannot be found" or something like that. If I reach into my pocket and rearrange where the key/remote is, the message goes away.
   • If the car is locked, the tailgate does not open. In the past, when the car was locked, I could open the tailgate (with the remote in my pocket), and then when I shut the tailgate, the car would re-lock itself. That no longer works. I go around and touch a passenger handle, which unlocks the car, and then use the tailgate just fine, then re-lock the door at the rear passenger handle. Not a huge deal, but a little annoying.
   • the last one may be related to the fact that Durametric shows 181: Antennas on rear bumper Upper limit value exceeded. After reading hundreds of KESSY posts, it seems like either the rear antennas' connections may be bad, or some resistors in the KESSY unit may have blown. I'm an electrical engineer, so I have no problem replacing resistors or FETs if needed, but I'd rather check the antennas' connections first. I can't seem to find any descriptions of where the antenna wiring routes to check that.

Any suggestions or advice?

Thanks!

Stringbag

Hi
1. Same happened to me. VW part cheap to replace and makes the system work properly (when you wash the windscreen it switches to recirc for a few seconds for example). Worth it.
2. Can of worms. Good luck!
Antenna location is in this post - if you remove the rear bumper you can see them quite clearly. They are taped to a recess in the foam directly behind the plastic skin.
https://rennlist.com/forums/cayenne-...t-numbers.html