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This... Compression takes longer than average (based on what I've read) around 5-9 seconds to fill the accumulator.
is not right. I never hear the compressor running more than a few seconds.
This seems to indicate a leak or a sensor that regulates the pressure is at fault. The only way to know for certain is by monitoring the pressure with an external gauge.
Check for an abrupt change when the fault occurs.
This... Compression takes longer than average (based on what I've read) around 5-9 seconds to fill the accumulator.
is not right. I never hear the compressor running more than a few seconds.
This seems to indicate a leak or a sensor that regulates the pressure is at fault. The only way to know for certain is by monitoring the pressure with an external gauge.
Check for an abrupt change when the fault occurs.
I did notice (only once) that the front right side seemed to be sagging slightly lower than the left, I measured the distance between the well and the tire with my hand, not exactly scientific but I believe it was around an inch lower. After that the valves dumped the pressure and it sat evenly, at least to my hand measurements.
Update: Spoke with my indie this morning, they mentioned the reason they aren’t able to pull a code is that the module itself is failing to communicate with multiple scan tools. They recommended the best course of action was to have it taken to the dealer, since the scan will require proprietary diagnostic (PIWIS) and we’ll continue from there.
Im wondering, could it be the module itself? If the module is bad, is that a result of corrosion - if so, does the damp actuator need replaced as well? Re-calibration?
Update: Spoke with my indie this morning, they mentioned the reason they aren’t able to pull a code is that the module itself is failing to communicate with multiple scan tools. They recommended the best course of action was to have it taken to the dealer, since the scan will require proprietary diagnostic (PIWIS) and we’ll continue from there.
Im wondering, could it be the module itself? If the module is bad, is that a result of corrosion - if so, does the damp actuator need replaced as well? Re-calibration?
Were they truing to pull the code with Durametric (or similar) or a standard OBD2 scanner ?
Were they truing to pull the code with Durametric (or similar) or a standard OBD2 scanner ?
They mentioned they had a Durametric - if I recall they mentioned that had 3 scan tools, I’m not sure of the other two, none of which were PIWIS as I mentioned earlier
you sure they have durametric? once chassis light comes on its stored. ive had issues with chassis light on a few occasions on my 08 and always left code on durametric specifying where the issue is
you sure they have durametric? once chassis light comes on its stored. ive had issues with chassis light on a few occasions on my 08 and always left code on durametric specifying where the issue is
I’m sure they do, lots of Porsche cars on their lot and in the garage - As it was explained to me, no codes because the module failed to communicate to the scan tool.
I’m sure they do, lots of Porsche cars on their lot and in the garage - As it was explained to me, no codes because the module failed to communicate to the scan tool.
For what it's worth, the Durametric is not able to communicate with PASM on my 08 Cayenne GTS. There is a known bug with Durametric on this, and they essentially will not fix it because they couldn't care less about cars that don't have boxer engines. I do not have any issues or codes with PASM, and no comm with Durametric regardless. Perhaps same problem exists with the Turbo?
EDIT: Just remembered and re-checked - Durametric has issue connecting to the PSM module - stability control, bot the PASM module. In that case, first priority should be re-establishing communication to the PASM module, then get the codes, if any, and proceed. Electrical issue.
On a big repair, it's a good idea to take the care to a different shop for a second opinion, esp if the current one does not have PIWIS (Porsche rents PIWIS for something like $15k/year, and some indies do have them). Call up the dealer and ask how much they would want for diagnostic - if they are able to pull codes, it should give you a much better idea of what you've got to deal with. I would not give the current indie an open check to start throwing parts at the problem. If there truly is no comm to the PASM unit, then you most likely have an electrical issue which should not be anywhere close to 5k to fix.
It may be tempting to dump the vehicle, but you will potentially lose a LOT more than the cost of the repair. Cayennes can take time to sell working, so I can only imagine how much you'll have to discount one with major issues to move it.
Here is the Durametric feature matrix for the 957 Cayenne. Note at the bottom, it does offer air suspension adaptation capability so does communicate with that module.
Though it says it doesn't support PSM, when I scan my 09 TTS I get a No Faults found, which is a different message than when it can't communicate. When it can't communicate it doesn't show an error or a No Faults Found message - it just shows nothing under that heading.
Here is the Durametric feature matrix for the 957 Cayenne. Note at the bottom, it does offer air suspension adaptation capability so does communicate with that module.
Though it says it doesn't support PSM, when I scan my 09 TTS I get a No Faults found, which is a different message than when it can't communicate. When it can't communicate it doesn't show an error or a No Faults Found message - it just shows nothing under that heading.
I’m assuming this is why no codes could be pulled,
thank you very much for the information and the snapshot of the scan - latest is we’re waiting on a PIWIS equipped dealer availability so we can get the scan completed and decide where we go from there. It’s been a week and a half since I brought the vehicle in to my indie, no idea where this will go, but I really appareciate everyone’s feedback.
Is the chassis/PDCC something I should leave to a dealer? I don’t believe my local dealers are any more qualified to do the repair than my indie, they just have access to the PIWIS. Thoughts?
Brought the 957 Turbo in for a second attempt at diagnostic, met with a really awesome and knowledgeable technician (fellow Rennlist Member it turns out) who broke some bad news to me.
The diagnostic turned up only general suspension issues, we took it for a drive and I showed him exactly how the vehicle was behaving when the fault code engaged, we got the “Warning Chassis System Faulty” error several times and were able to wipe and drive it by shutting the vehicle off and back on, left and right turns, at differing ride heights - He mentioned this could be the vehicle sensing a roll scenario and doing what it supposed to do in that situation, disengage Sport Mode and emergency shut off the pumps.
After the drive we took it in for an inspection, he had a suspicion there may be some issues with the wiring harness due to some A-Pillar leak issues I’ve been having, i told him to keep the vehicle for an inspection and what he found was that the vehicle may actually be totalled.
The transmission fluid is leaking through all three transmission connectors, the wiring housing and it’s migrated outward of the vehicle which is causing some of the issues.
On further inspection, he found the front timing cover to be leaking oil (a lot of oil) and there is a sunroof leak issue that may have corroded the passenger side wiring harness.
I purchased the vehicle in just November of 2017 - purchased used with an inspection. Now I may be stuck with a totalled vehicle. Any advice on this would be much appreciated - thank you all for your help.
Oil leak into the housing cover
Transmission fluid migrating through the transmission wiring bundle
Oil leaking from the front cover
Both connectors are saturated with trans fluid and it continues to drain
Wow. Did he give an estimate to repair? You would obviously try to find a used wiring harness for the transmission harness. And you'd have to fix the leak at the transmission (early '03-04's did this - but Porsche/Asian fixed the problem AFAIK from 2005 and on it wasn't an issue.) I assume the large multipin connector is the transmission control unit - if it's still shifting OK - cleaning that up with some electronic cleaner should rescue it.
Plus fix the oil leak at the front of the engine.
Usually, the problems with the inside wiring harness due to water can be repaired - there are splices in the harness that corrode when they get wet - but they are pretty well known (see some of the DIY threads) and it is possible to repair those problems without replacing the entire harness.
Looking at the photo from under the engine I see what appears to be rather heavy corrosion on some of the plumbing and fittings - was the vehicle from a rust-belt area?
Tough call on this - I'd rely on the advice of the mechanic who found what the problems were - he's obviously competent and being a rennlister most likely honest.
Thanks for the insight deilenberger, I don’t have a paper quote just yet - only estimated cost from the mechanic who found the issue(s) based on previous work performed, we spoke this evening for a while and discussed some options. I’m starting to think I should speak with the dealer who sold me the vehicle about these issues...
edit: Yes, I live in Ohio and the vehicle has been here for 95% it’s miles. Ohio is a state which seems to salt the roads 9 months out of the year, snow or shine. The rust is likely from the salt.
Take a day or two to calm down and reflect. Even with the new problems you discovered, I think the car is far from "totalled". Yea, it sucks, but that's kind of the risk you take with used cars. When I was shopping for a Cayenne, a member here posted that you should budget about 4k on a used Cayenne for repairs after you buy it, and then an average of $1000/year on upkeep. This is a powerful and complicated machine and it will cost money to keep it running.
Did the shop give you quotes on the repairs? It sounds like you have more clarity on the original issue with the suspension, so do you have a better estimate on repair there as well?
Front cover leak may look bad if it has been leaking for a while, but how much oil do you have to top off say per 1000 miles? That's the real metric. If it's not that much, you could potentially postpone that repair.
05-18-2018, 09:32 PM
