Petza914

I've had my front fender liners off twice in the last 2 weeks since getting my car back - once to find the source of the boost leak and whistle and again and I can't remember why I had to do it a second time, but did. I find it's easiest to put the liner in and loosely secure those top 2 plastic 10mm nuts which then hold it roughly in place while you wiggle it around to line up the rest of them. Don't fully tighten any of them until all of them are in place and started.

nodoors

Thank you, Pete. I am sure I will still grunt like an angry ape getting them back in there. It seems that installing them is easier than taking them out usually, and the drivers side tends to be harder. The lip and the fender tabs just don't want to play well for me.

It really does make sense to do all of this while you are in there since, the pulleys and water pump are a cinch with the radiator slid forward. Here are some pro tips for others looking to refurbish the alternator, charge pipe seals, belt, pulleys, waterpump, and other pieces like I did:

0. The manual is incorrect on several things and missing some pretty important steps!!! Especially when you remove the front bumper and are looking to slide the radiator and whole frontend assembly forward. They missed a crucial step of removing the brackets from the fenders which the bumpers attach to on each side. There are some metal brackets riveted to this plastic piece which will not allow you move the assembly much without something breaking badly.

1. The charge pipes that go from the intercoolers up to the Y pipe that connects to the throttle body have a bolt that is quite frustrating to loosen. It is tough of the passenger side and damn near impossible on the drivers side. If you are going through the trouble of putting the lock mount into service position, don't bother removing that charge pipe from the intercooler. The whole thing will pull out with the intercooler in one piece where you can easily take them apart to replace the seal. That would be part number WHT-001-018 in my list which is #7 on this diagram: https://dz310nzuyimx0.cloudfront.net...bd34861c43.png

2. The intercoolers are going to have some road grime in their fins. Go ahead and find some Simple Green Extreme or Pro HD (they are the same thing) and aluminum friendly. While you are in there it makes all the sense in the world to clean everything out that you can for maximum efficiency.

3. The alternator is a PITA to get out. I found that it was easiest to pull out through the top. I did not have to undo the turbo waste gate as others have.

Parts list so far from Sonnen (they seem to beat Pelican and other dealers most of the time)
You will see a few random odds and ends. There are many things missing from this list (more than $1k worth of parts) that I sourced elsewhere or had previously purchased and had waiting on the shelf like diverters, the water pump, belt, tensioner - which is stupidly expensive.ItemPart #QuantityAmountStatusETAPressure Pipe BoltN-103-231-031$2.42N/ADrain Plug900-219-020-312$9.10N/ASpring ClampN-908-475-011$0.74N/APressure Pipe O-RingWHT-001-0182$6.04N/ASpacer Sleeve955-110-268-012$2.02N/APressure Hose Seal955-110-720-002$5.80N/AGenerator948-603-015-EX1$932.27N/AScrew Fill HD 5X10999-073-099-091$3.02N/AIdler Pulley, RIGHT948-102-120-021$78.95N/AIdler Pulley, LEFT948-102-119-021$78.95N/ADistributor955-110-046-501$67.56N/AReturn Hose948-106-050-011$35.25N/AIntake Tube Connector948-106-362-011$7.19N/AGasket948-110-143-011$12.62N/APulley948-106-090-011$40.10N/A

deilenberger

Nodoors - you are taking photos for the DIY right?

nodoors

Haha, thank you for the reminder, Don. I have only snapped a few so far. I will try to take more as I am putting it back together. Still waiting on some parts, because I want to make sure everything is perfect including replacing a few bolts that were corroded. The entire frontend of this car is so clean now. I look forward to not getting slathered with road grime as I reassemble. Thinking I will hold off on the N2O and methanol and just get her rolling first. The project has taken longer than I would like.

deilenberger

An old friend said: "Experience often teaches you things you'd rather not know.." sounds like one of those. Good thing I have a good independent mechanic if mine fails..

nodoors

Don, that is so true.

Here is another thread on Rennlist with helpful instructions for alternator replacement:
https://rennlist.com/forums/porsche-...t-upgrade.html

Here is a source for some great bolts to use for the lock mount service position procedure. It is a package of two, but you will need 4 bolts total:

Dan's youtube videos are great for the waterpump and pulley replacement. If you are doing these with the alternator and have the radiator moved forward it makes all of the difficult aspect go away.
part 1 part 2

nodoors

Here are some more part numbers not in my original list. I also replaced the roller on the belt tensioner and the tensioner itself:

948-102-259-01
Serpentine Tensioner
$187.19

9A1-102-212-00
Pulley
$81.78

dpatel710

Nodoors,
How did everything turn out? Any BTDT tips?

I am ordering parts to start this project as a PM item for my p!g as it creeps up to 200k.

nodoors

Yes, I ordered an extra piece or two I did not need. I have been meaning to follow up more about that.

1. DEFINITELY put the car in lock mount service position. It takes a bit more time, but will be well worth it. There is a missing step in the manual which does not detail removing some extra brackets that go from the fenders to the front. Make sure you remove those before trying to slide it forward.
2. Prepare to spend some extra time cleaning and degreasing things like your intercoolers.
3. The toughest part with wrestling the new alternator back in is getting the wires and heat shield oriented properly since you have to hook them up before putting it in place. They are not accessible in the back when it is mounted.
4. You will have things so pulled apart that if you have not replaced your diverter valves in a while you should go ahead and do it since that will now become a simple job.
5. Go ahead and get some new coolant, because you are going to lose quite a bit in the process. There just isn't enough room to work with clamps on the hoses.

Nothing about it is difficult, it is just a lot of work and parts to remove to get to the thing. You will be astounded. If the easiest alternator/generator replacement I have done is a 1 and the toughest was a 3, then this is a 10. I have changed alternators on all kinds of machines, so that is saying something.

Dan87951

nodoors, by chance did you take any photos?

Nice work on getting it replaced. I'm definitely not looking forward to the job when mine fails.

nodoors

What kind of pics would you like? I have a few that could be helpful. Probably the best one is showing the difference between the delphi and hitachi units.

dpatel710

Unrelated to Dan's post but this reminded me to put up my parts list

BTW, pelican does a 10% discount if you are a PCNA member which was a decent chunk on my order.

Pelican alternator parts
948-603-015-EX-OEM
(1) 948 106 050 01 hose,
(1) 948 106 462 00 hose connection,
(1) 948 106 561 00 hose connection,
(1) 948 607 931 00 heat shield,
(1) 955 603 165 00 plug socket, - Unused
(1) N 906 845 02 plug connector, - Unused
(1) 955 603 167 00 gasket, - Unused
Intake Tube Connector 948-106-362-011 $7.19- Unused, IIRC the new hose came with one already
Note: This is a rebuilt part, a Core Charge of $640.00 applies.
-Followed instructions from one of the posts nodoor's referenced. I didn't have to mess with wires, just unplugged the pigtail off the back of my alternator and plugged it into the new one. The old alternator had two pins, new alternator has just one pin but the same plugs.

Parts from nodoor’s list
Serpentine Tensioner 948-102-259-01 $187.19
Pulley 9A1-102-212-00 $81.78
Pressure Pipe O-Ring WHT-001-0182 $6.04
Pressure Hose Seal 955-110-720-002 $5.80
Idler Pulley, RIGHT 948-102-120-021 $78.95
Idler Pulley, LEFT 948-102-119-021 $78.95
Gasket 948-110-143-011 $12.62
Pulley 948-106-090-011 $40.10

Pelilcan parts water pump kit
Part Number Description Qty
948-106-011-04-M59 Water Pump (also use one 948-106-115-03-M30 gasket) 1
996-106-125-72-M2 Water Thermostat (requires 1 999-701-632-40 gasket) 1
955-106-447-20-M100 Expansion Tank Cap, Brand: Genuine Porsche 1
948-106-115-03-M30 Water Pump Gasket 1
948-106-123-03-M30 Thermostat Housing Gasket, Brand: Elring Klinger Note: 1
948-106-401-01-M100 SEALING RING 1
955-106-238-00-M100 Water Hose, Radiator to Engine (Upper Hose) 1
955-106-239-10-M100 Water Hose, Radiator to Engine (Lower Hose) 1
*****Learned this from experience, be sure to check thermostat function before installing.****

Misc Parts
2 710N diverter valves, 10ft 5/32 vac hose, 1 right elbow
Service position bolts (4)
948147019 - Power steering pump pulley – easy swap, mine was chipping due to age. Damn thing is plastic as well.
Could swap out the CCV and drier for AC if yours is feeling weak. Plenty of room to work with and cheap parts (~$40 each)
948107217 – snapped this hose while working. Very expensive piece of plastic.
948106016 – plastic coolant line under the intake, breaks often, easy to replace since intake was off
948-110-145 - Intake manifold gaskets

+Any misc maintenance items like oil, filters, etc. Could also replace horns/front bumper emblem since front bumper will be off.

And to echo nodoor's sentiment, this job sucks but is doable.