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Exactly what I am going to do for mine except I'm going to buy stainless cylindrical colanders? like for the kitchen, and put the filters inside with a removable lid and flex pipe the air to them from the intercooler ducts.
Thanks.
Well we started with evoms kit I bought so he just built around it and made it better. Here are some pics I found from the fitting of the intake and fabricating the ram air ducts.
I also had all my pressure side piping replaced with stainless steel mandrel bent and larger tubing when I had my exhaust done. Everything is covered in heatshield tape
I am glad and happy for answers. Definitely there are two opinions about this mod. I as I said didn't have any problems in past with my cars. I don't see reason why would I have now. I will get cold air to my K&N filters and job done. I am looking right now for down pipe for exhaust and when I finish my project I would gladly put results here... I think I will be done in few weeks. Will keep you posted here about engine modifications.
There are other problems with the K&N filters. One is - they don't actually filter well. Another is the oil from them tends to downstream and migrate to the MAF sensors - causing them to die.
I realize it's your vehicle, and your money - but it could be better spent elsewhere. The stock filters are HUGE for the size of the engine, and the intakes to the stock airboxes are also huge and out where engine heat doesn't get pumped into them.
IMHO - I've yet to see back to back dyno runs showing an increase in performance by installing a K&N filter vs a reasonably engineered (large enough with large enough plumbing going to it and from it to the intake) stock filter. When I do - I'll reconsider my opinion - but until then - I wouldn't install a K&N, especially the cone type mounted close to the MAF's on a vehicle I own. YMMV..
Nice job on cleaning the engine compartment..
Exactly what he said. We get newbies on the 928 forum and the first thing they want to do is put a K&N filter on. We have seen many many MAF wires ruined by them due to the oil. Trying to find a stick air box for my MB C280 some P.O. out on because they were swayed by K&N advertising. Sometimes stock IS better. This is one of those sometimes.
There are other problems with the K&N filters. One is - they don't actually filter well. Another is the oil from them tends to downstream and migrate to the MAF sensors - causing them to die.
I realize it's your vehicle, and your money - but it could be better spent elsewhere. The stock filters are HUGE for the size of the engine, and the intakes to the stock airboxes are also huge and out where engine heat doesn't get pumped into them.
IMHO - I've yet to see back to back dyno runs showing an increase in performance by installing a K&N filter vs a reasonably engineered (large enough with large enough plumbing going to it and from it to the intake) stock filter. When I do - I'll reconsider my opinion - but until then - I wouldn't install a K&N, especially the cone type mounted close to the MAF's on a vehicle I own. YMMV..
Nice job on cleaning the engine compartment..
Bringing up an old thread here but I read those webpages that you posted and it looks like the AC Delco does the best filtration. I need new air filters for my CTT. Should I be looking at AC Delco ones?
K&Ns by themselves won't really do anything performance-wise other than add some intake sound and I've noticed they'll slightly improve throttle response. Where they'll really come into play is with other intake & exhaust mods and then a tune that takes into account these changes.
I run a K&N filter on all my vehicles, but every single one of them is modified. As long as the oiling process is done correctly (I'll get to that in a minute) you won't damage your MAF. On the current fleet, I have a combined 540,000 miles using K&N oiled filter intakes and have never replaced a single MAF. The "proper" oiling process I use is to follow the directions on the K&N oil can, but afterwards, stuff the filter with paper towels and wrap around the filter a couple times with paper towels and let it sit overnight like this, and when I say stuff the filter, I don't mean with 10 paper towels, I mean with half a roll or so. The paper towels will absorb any excess oil not captured by the filter gauze so it doesn't end up all over the MAF wire. Also, on any K&N filter, I put a hydrophobic pre-filter cover over it. This repels any water when driving in the rain and prevents the filter media from becoming water saturated that will degrade it's filtering capability. K&N sells these covers directly and there are two types - the normal prefilter that they recommend for dusty environments and then the hydrophobic ones that actually repel water. This is what's on the Cayenne filters in the photo in my post further down this thread.
As far as filtration efficiency, any dirt sucked in through the filter ends up in the motor oil. I have every oil change from all of my vehicles (including the wakeboard boat, which Indmar also uses a K&N filter on) analysed by Blackstone. On all of the reports on all of these vehicles, Silicon levels have been between 4 and 10 which according to the universal averages column is fine.
For anyone running a stock airbox with stock filters setup, I'd be interested to see what the reports shows your Silicon levels at to compare to my results.
Here's an example from one of my 997s running an Evoms intake with K&N Oiled Filter and Hydrophobic Filter Cover.
...For anyone running a stock airbox with stock filters setup, I'd be interested to see what the reports shows your Silicon levels at to compare to my results...
On my completely stock (except wheels and exhaust) 2004 S, I did an oil analysis as part of the initial checkout. Using Mobil1 0W40, at 2216 miles (101,630 on the car, about 56k on the engine), my Silicon was 4 ppm. So I'd agree that you don't seem to be having any filtration problems on yours, vs. if you consider mine to be a baseline normal case.
BTW, I was looking for that Silicon number on the analysis, not because I was concerned with filtration, but because I was concerned about cylinder scoring of the Alusil (Aluminum and Silicon) block. A low number is good for both concerns, so that was a good test result for me. BTW, my Aluminum number was 2 ppm, everything was good.
On my completely stock (except wheels and exhaust) 2004 S, I did an oil analysis as part of the initial checkout. Using Mobil1 0W40, at 2216 miles (101,630 on the car, about 56k on the engine), my Silicon was 4 ppm. So I'd agree that you don't seem to be having any filtration problems on yours, vs. if you consider mine to be a baseline normal case.
BTW, I was looking for that Silicon number on the analysis, not because I was concerned with filtration, but because I was concerned about cylinder scoring of the Alusil (Aluminum and Silicon) block. A low number is good for both concerns, so that was a good test result for me. BTW, my Aluminum number was 2 ppm, everything was good.
Just as an FYI for anyone discovering this thread later on, if you used any type of sealant on a component that comes in contact with the oiling system, i.e. sump plate, etc, sealants will throw the silicon # way off for that next UOA. As an example, and even noted in Blackstone's comments on the report below, the oil change dated 02/05/16 on my supercharged 997 showing 16ppm is the one done after I installed my MantisSport Deep Sump where I had to seal both the windage tray to the engine and the sump to the windage tray. Incidentally, the first one shown here at 11 ppm is when I still had the factory Airbox installed before going to my Fabspeed intake with oiled K&N filter and full Fabspeed exhaust, so from these 2 samples, the K&N actually reduced the silicon level from what the reading was with the factory airbox. 5,500 miles prior to the change done on 12/13/14 (that's a cool date) it has just received a brand new OEM air filter and oil filter as part of the extensive 3 day PPI I had done on this car at Sewickley Porsche in PA (great dealership experience by the way) when purchasing it. Do I believe a K&N actually filters better than a stock paper filter - No, personally I do not, but I also don't believe it's significantly poorer than using a stock filter if it's maintained and oiled properly and can help to extract the most out of other modifications if tuned for.
So if I go with the K&N, should I put in drop in ones or a filter charger setup?
If the rest of the engine and exhaust are stock, I'd keep the OEM airbox so it draws cooler air and since you won't be able to take much advantage of the increased flow from an open style intake. This is what I had on my 09 Turbo S prior to doing all the other mods and changing to the HHR dual setup since I was combining that with Evoms Billet Diverter Valves, FVD Intercoolers, ipd plenum, cargraphic muffler, Fabspeed Secondary Cat bypass pipes, and a Fabspeed Stage 2 Tune.
I had the K&Ns with the Fabspeed pipes together previously and the car ran great. In fact, I still have 1 of those drop-in K&Ns in the garage with about 1,000 miles on it before starting the widebody project that I'll make you a deal on. If you're interested, let me know and then you'd only need to purchase 1 as it's the same airbox and filter used on the V6 engine, but as a single.
Same as the CTT 955? I'm in Canada. The shipping might kill me. hehe
According to the Amazon link and reviews, yes it's the same, also for the Audi and Toureg. Shipping into Canada probably won't make sense unless I can send it to Buffalo or a US border town where you could pick it up.
10-08-2017, 07:08 PM
