Prioritizing work on a 2000 S; What would you do?
12-11-2012, 08:39 PM
#16
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$2K if your flywheel isn't burnt. The longer you wait the more that becomes possible. That puppy isn't cheap. That brought the cost of my IMS/Clutch/RMS/FLywheel to $3K. Oh and there was another couple grand of stuff to do on top of that.
Before I hit 70K miles I'd had exactly one unexpected repair in all those many years. Throttle body, barely $300 at the dealer. Overall, by far the most reliable car I'd owned. Once I crossed over 70K miles all the winter driving without really being proactive on major maintenance finally caught up to me. Shocks were fried and control arms. Starter AND alternator went. Followed up by the coolant tank and AOS. A few dented wheels needed refinishing as well.
Moral of the story, budget $2K a year even if you don't spend it. You could have two back to back repairs on this car that run an easy $4K. Best to do something every year with your local Indy. Saves on towing charges...
p.s.
Last night I drove the car in in 52 degree weather top down. Engine seems to love that type of weather. Turned up the cabin heat (to warm up the rear plastic window before lowering), turned up the radio and thought ot myself "man this car makes buying anything new pointless". At one point a light drizzle started up but I simply went faster. No problemo.
Before I hit 70K miles I'd had exactly one unexpected repair in all those many years. Throttle body, barely $300 at the dealer. Overall, by far the most reliable car I'd owned. Once I crossed over 70K miles all the winter driving without really being proactive on major maintenance finally caught up to me. Shocks were fried and control arms. Starter AND alternator went. Followed up by the coolant tank and AOS. A few dented wheels needed refinishing as well.
Moral of the story, budget $2K a year even if you don't spend it. You could have two back to back repairs on this car that run an easy $4K. Best to do something every year with your local Indy. Saves on towing charges...
p.s.
Last night I drove the car in in 52 degree weather top down. Engine seems to love that type of weather. Turned up the cabin heat (to warm up the rear plastic window before lowering), turned up the radio and thought ot myself "man this car makes buying anything new pointless". At one point a light drizzle started up but I simply went faster. No problemo.
12-11-2012, 09:06 PM
#17
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UPDATED service history in the second post, covering everything back to 2009 and the 60k service. (Thank god the independent shop that serviced it was willing to tell me these details.)
The thing that really jumps out at me: multi A/C compressors in one year. surely they cannot all be faulty? or maybe that shop got a bad batch.... the most recent one was installed by another shop, so we will see.
What the heck would kill multiple A/C compressors?
The thing that really jumps out at me: multi A/C compressors in one year. surely they cannot all be faulty? or maybe that shop got a bad batch.... the most recent one was installed by another shop, so we will see.
What the heck would kill multiple A/C compressors?
12-11-2012, 09:14 PM
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Without the repair invoice or being able to speak with the tech that did the job one can't know for sure that the CV bearings were cleaned, inspected and found ok for reuse. The former owner might have opted to just have the boots replaced.
If you can't find out I'd not worry too much about it. Either the CV joints were done right, or were done wrong. If wrong they may still be ok. If not you'll know soon enough.
Motor and transmission mounts are different but the advice applies. Do not delay in replacing any that are bad.
If the cooling system was low on fluid odds are there is a leak. Could be the coolant tank cap. If the part # ends in '00' or '01', get a new one. '04' is the latest rev of the cap, IIRC.
But the water pump could be leaking around the pump shaft seal, a radiator could be leaking -- the build up of trash around the radiators leads to corrosion from the outside. Or the coolant tank could be leaking.
One "test" is to get the engine nice and hot, fully up to temp then park the car somewhere and raise the rpms to 1500 and hold until the radiator fans come on. Oh, be sure the A/C is off so the fans only come on when the coolant temp hits 212F.
As soon as you hear the fans come on shut off the engine. The heat will raise the coolant temp and pressure and if there's weak spot in the cooling system you'll soon know it. Follow the stream of *hot* coolant back to where it is coming from.
Check the power steering pump reservoir. If the fluid is low suspect a high pressure relief valve in a line has failed and the rack is being fed too high a pressure of fluid. This forces fluid past the rack seals into the dust boots. This ruins the rack, and of course the line with the bad valve. If the pump runs low on fluid this can ruin the pump. The first obvious sign something's amiss is a noisy power steering pump. But by then it is too late. Check the power steering fluid. If low follow the lines from the pump to the rack and back to the pump again. If no leaks spotted the rack dust boots will have to be checked/squeezed for any signs they are full of power steering pump fluid.
If you can't find out I'd not worry too much about it. Either the CV joints were done right, or were done wrong. If wrong they may still be ok. If not you'll know soon enough.
Motor and transmission mounts are different but the advice applies. Do not delay in replacing any that are bad.
If the cooling system was low on fluid odds are there is a leak. Could be the coolant tank cap. If the part # ends in '00' or '01', get a new one. '04' is the latest rev of the cap, IIRC.
But the water pump could be leaking around the pump shaft seal, a radiator could be leaking -- the build up of trash around the radiators leads to corrosion from the outside. Or the coolant tank could be leaking.
One "test" is to get the engine nice and hot, fully up to temp then park the car somewhere and raise the rpms to 1500 and hold until the radiator fans come on. Oh, be sure the A/C is off so the fans only come on when the coolant temp hits 212F.
As soon as you hear the fans come on shut off the engine. The heat will raise the coolant temp and pressure and if there's weak spot in the cooling system you'll soon know it. Follow the stream of *hot* coolant back to where it is coming from.
Check the power steering pump reservoir. If the fluid is low suspect a high pressure relief valve in a line has failed and the rack is being fed too high a pressure of fluid. This forces fluid past the rack seals into the dust boots. This ruins the rack, and of course the line with the bad valve. If the pump runs low on fluid this can ruin the pump. The first obvious sign something's amiss is a noisy power steering pump. But by then it is too late. Check the power steering fluid. If low follow the lines from the pump to the rack and back to the pump again. If no leaks spotted the rack dust boots will have to be checked/squeezed for any signs they are full of power steering pump fluid.
Gotta add securing the transmission to the short list.
I'll have to look into the testing of the water pump and coolant system. Thanks for the very detailed steps to diagnose. Is this recommendation on your part mostly because the fluid level in the coolant tank is low? (I think I may have mentioned that I have no idea of the state of the water pump since there is no mention of it either in the service history for the last 15k miles, nor in the PPI).
Maybe this is related to A/C compressors that keep failing? (I can't imagine how.)
12-11-2012, 09:40 PM
#19
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August 2004 25k miles
Oil and Filter
Brake Fluid Flush
O2 sensor replaced
Back seat bracket replaced
new floor mats
wipers and fluid
windshield washer fluid leak, hose under fender replaced
April 2005 29k miles
four wheel alignment, possible belt strut left rear issue but not investigated
new right rear tire installed
30k service performed inc oil and filter
Jan 2006 35k miles
shield hanging down under vehicle, repaired rear flap
Feb 2006 35k miles
O2 sensor replaced, bank on before catalytic converter
April 2006 36k miles
left low beam bulb replaced
May 2006
replaced completed steering lock and switch
oil and filter
Jan 2007 40 k miles
right low beam bulb replaced
april 2007 42 k miles
oil and filter
jan 2008 47k miles
ABS and battery lights on, replaced to line #2
replaced water pump and belt
brake fluid flushed
June 2008 50k miles
oil and filter
front brake pads, rotors, hardware and wear sensors replaced
A/c blowing warm air -- found low pressure indicating low refrigerant. performed evac and recharge, aded dye. checked for leaks with UV lamp. none found.
rear inner and out CV boots and clamps replaced
August 2008 52k miles
A/C blowing warm air. used UV lamp to check for leaks. found suctio line service prob leaking. replaced AC line, evac and recharged
May 2009 57k miles
A/C blowing warm air. system low of freon. found leak at drier bottle o-rings. replaced k-rings, recharged system.
July 2009 59k miles
A/C blowing warm air. A/C charge low, found small leak at evaporator (not replaced, and then the owner went to a different shop)
-------moved to new mechanic--------
August 2009, 60k miles:
"60k service: replace air, fuel and cabin filters. replaced spark plugs, multi rib belt, oil and filter"
"customer request: check A/C evap. found evap core. replace evap core vacuumed and recharge system. low pressure is 28 psi. high pressure is 200psi and center vent temp is 45 degrees"
ITEMS:
Nov 2010, 66k miles:
check engine light=code p1130 fuel system trim code. found broken oil filter pipe that could be causing fault. replaced oil line.
"porsche minor service": change oil and filter, various checks
new tires, mounting and balancing, valve stems and weights
ITEMS:
Nov 2011, 70k miles:
replaced both rear brake lights
Jan 2012, 70k miles:
check engine light: P0507 idle air RPM. no vacuum leak. recommend clean throttle body.
ITEMS:
Feb 2012, 71k miles:
check engine light:
ITEMS:
April 2012, 72k miles:
replace single BFG SUP tire, mounting and balancing
May 2012:
"porsche minor service"
check tire thump, rattle in rear
replace AC compressor, replace alternator
ITEMS:
Early Sept 2012, 73k miles:
A/C compressor replaced under warranty
(and then the car was traded in to a dealer)
Late Sept 2012, at the dealer we bought it from:
ITEMS:
Service History (shops used):
(*I'm not saying independents are less capable -- they are what I use -- but it's not a bad sign, and appears the original owner, it's a single owner vehicle, was following the letter of Porsche's maintenance plan and doing it all at a dealership.)
Oil and Filter
Brake Fluid Flush
O2 sensor replaced
Back seat bracket replaced
new floor mats
wipers and fluid
windshield washer fluid leak, hose under fender replaced
April 2005 29k miles
four wheel alignment, possible belt strut left rear issue but not investigated
new right rear tire installed
30k service performed inc oil and filter
Jan 2006 35k miles
shield hanging down under vehicle, repaired rear flap
Feb 2006 35k miles
O2 sensor replaced, bank on before catalytic converter
April 2006 36k miles
left low beam bulb replaced
May 2006
replaced completed steering lock and switch
oil and filter
Jan 2007 40 k miles
right low beam bulb replaced
april 2007 42 k miles
oil and filter
jan 2008 47k miles
ABS and battery lights on, replaced to line #2
replaced water pump and belt
brake fluid flushed
June 2008 50k miles
oil and filter
front brake pads, rotors, hardware and wear sensors replaced
A/c blowing warm air -- found low pressure indicating low refrigerant. performed evac and recharge, aded dye. checked for leaks with UV lamp. none found.
rear inner and out CV boots and clamps replaced
August 2008 52k miles
A/C blowing warm air. used UV lamp to check for leaks. found suctio line service prob leaking. replaced AC line, evac and recharged
May 2009 57k miles
A/C blowing warm air. system low of freon. found leak at drier bottle o-rings. replaced k-rings, recharged system.
July 2009 59k miles
A/C blowing warm air. A/C charge low, found small leak at evaporator (not replaced, and then the owner went to a different shop)
-------moved to new mechanic--------
August 2009, 60k miles:
"60k service: replace air, fuel and cabin filters. replaced spark plugs, multi rib belt, oil and filter"
"customer request: check A/C evap. found evap core. replace evap core vacuumed and recharge system. low pressure is 28 psi. high pressure is 200psi and center vent temp is 45 degrees"
ITEMS:
- AC Evaporator
- Refrigerant
- Air Filter
- Fuel FIlter
- Oil Filter
- ACC Cabin FIlter
- Spark Plugs x6
- Multi Rib Belt
- Air Filter
- SYNOW40 Synthetic
Nov 2010, 66k miles:
check engine light=code p1130 fuel system trim code. found broken oil filter pipe that could be causing fault. replaced oil line.
"porsche minor service": change oil and filter, various checks
new tires, mounting and balancing, valve stems and weights
ITEMS:
- Brake clean: spray cleaner
- Oil Line
- Air FIlter
- Dip Stick tube
- Oil Filter
- Synthetic 5w-40
- BFG SUP and SP tires (all four tires new)
Nov 2011, 70k miles:
replaced both rear brake lights
Jan 2012, 70k miles:
check engine light: P0507 idle air RPM. no vacuum leak. recommend clean throttle body.
ITEMS:
- Wiper blades
- Air Filter
- clean throttle body
Feb 2012, 71k miles:
check engine light:
- P1130 O2 sensor adaptation idle reange fault bank 2,
- P11285 O2 sensor adaptation ideal range bank 1,
- 0507 idle air control RPM high. replace oil separator.
ITEMS:
- O-RING 2#
- oil vent line
- oil seperator
April 2012, 72k miles:
replace single BFG SUP tire, mounting and balancing
May 2012:
"porsche minor service"
check tire thump, rattle in rear
replace AC compressor, replace alternator
ITEMS:
- oil change
- alternator/generator replaced (alternator 150)
- air filter
- A/C compressor
- A/C refrigerant
- A/C receiver
Early Sept 2012, 73k miles:
A/C compressor replaced under warranty
(and then the car was traded in to a dealer)
Late Sept 2012, at the dealer we bought it from:
ITEMS:
- oil change
- a/c compressor (yes, again)
- heater fan
- left and right inner and outer CV boots
- cabin air filter
- wheel alignment
Service History (shops used):
- A lot of the work for the past three years was done at German Auto Repair in Fresno, CA. They very graciously helped me collect the details of the work done at the 60k service and forward (except the last service which was done at the dealer we bought it from).
- Prior to that, most of the maintenance appears to have been done at Michael Automotive Center, in Fresno, CA -- back to 2005, which is the oldest info I have. Michael Automotive is a Porsche dealer, so that's a good sign.* They were willing to share the details as far back as their system recorded them. Awesome.
- (I'm hoping that for the first four years of life, the original owner was using the dealership, as well, but the records are incomplete.)*
(*I'm not saying independents are less capable -- they are what I use -- but it's not a bad sign, and appears the original owner, it's a single owner vehicle, was following the letter of Porsche's maintenance plan and doing it all at a dealership.)
The more I think about it, all these A/C compressors getting replaced has me a little worried. I gotta get to the bottom of that.
Last edited by nathan_h; 12-12-2012 at 03:33 PM.
12-11-2012, 10:57 PM
#20
Wow, i'm exhausted from reading. Now to priorities:
1. brake fluid because its important and cheap, especialyl if you do it yourelf (buy a motive pressure bleeder)
2. when you do the clutch, do the IMS with an LN aftermarket bearing. Its good insurance to avoid a $15k problem. Doing them together removes most of the labor. Want an idea if the IMS is OK? Cut open the oil filter and look for debris. I never have anything.
3. The serpentine belt is "important" but if it breaks, there is no imminent damage. The alternator, water pump etc stop. You should know - shut off the car. That said its $40 for the part and 30 minutes to replace. Whoopty-do.
4. Change the oil. Always a good idea. (just said for effect, i didn't scrutinize the mileage)
5. Lubricate all those pesky things like folding top bearings and door hinges with Wurth HHS-2000 - expensive and the cheapest gold you ever bought
Enjoy! Its such a marvelous tool to communicate with the road.
Grant
2. when you do the clutch, do the IMS with an LN aftermarket bearing. Its good insurance to avoid a $15k problem. Doing them together removes most of the labor. Want an idea if the IMS is OK? Cut open the oil filter and look for debris. I never have anything.
3. The serpentine belt is "important" but if it breaks, there is no imminent damage. The alternator, water pump etc stop. You should know - shut off the car. That said its $40 for the part and 30 minutes to replace. Whoopty-do.
4. Change the oil. Always a good idea. (just said for effect, i didn't scrutinize the mileage)
5. Lubricate all those pesky things like folding top bearings and door hinges with Wurth HHS-2000 - expensive and the cheapest gold you ever bought
Enjoy! Its such a marvelous tool to communicate with the road.
Grant
So I am thinking of doing things in this order:
First round:
Brake fluid
Drive belt
Spark plugs and tubes
Secure transmission to car (mount)
Get leaves out of the radiator tubes
Second round:
Transmission: clutch and IMS, RMS, AOS, flywheel if needed (no history of a clutch having been replaced in the detailed history since 60k, nor in the sparse details about the maintenance history before 60k, all of which was done at a dealer)
Third round:
Brakes and rotors.
----
Am I missing something or making an obvious mistake?
First round:
Brake fluid
Drive belt
Spark plugs and tubes
Secure transmission to car (mount)
Get leaves out of the radiator tubes
Second round:
Transmission: clutch and IMS, RMS, AOS, flywheel if needed (no history of a clutch having been replaced in the detailed history since 60k, nor in the sparse details about the maintenance history before 60k, all of which was done at a dealer)
Third round:
Brakes and rotors.
----
Am I missing something or making an obvious mistake?
12-11-2012, 11:12 PM
#21
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1. brake fluid because its important and cheap, especialyl if you do it yourelf (buy a motive pressure bleeder)
2. when you do the clutch, do the IMS with an LN aftermarket bearing. Its good insurance to avoid a $15k problem. Doing them together removes most of the labor. Want an idea if the IMS is OK? Cut open the oil filter and look for debris. I never have anything.
3. The serpentine belt is "important" but if it breaks, there is no imminent damage. The alternator, water pump etc stop. You should know - shut off the car. That said its $40 for the part and 30 minutes to replace. Whoopty-do.
4. Change the oil. Always a good idea. (just said for effect, i didn't scrutinize the mileage)
5. Lubricate all those pesky things like folding top bearings and door hinges with Wurth HHS-2000 - expensive and the cheapest gold you ever bought
Enjoy! Its such a marvelous tool to communicate with the road.
Grant
2. when you do the clutch, do the IMS with an LN aftermarket bearing. Its good insurance to avoid a $15k problem. Doing them together removes most of the labor. Want an idea if the IMS is OK? Cut open the oil filter and look for debris. I never have anything.
3. The serpentine belt is "important" but if it breaks, there is no imminent damage. The alternator, water pump etc stop. You should know - shut off the car. That said its $40 for the part and 30 minutes to replace. Whoopty-do.
4. Change the oil. Always a good idea. (just said for effect, i didn't scrutinize the mileage)
5. Lubricate all those pesky things like folding top bearings and door hinges with Wurth HHS-2000 - expensive and the cheapest gold you ever bought
Enjoy! Its such a marvelous tool to communicate with the road.
Grant
The oil was recently changed. Almost tempted to do it again just to cut open the filter and see if there is debris (IMS warning sign).
Thanks for the tip on the belt. I'll search for a DIY tutorial. Sounds very doable.
Thanks for the tip about using Wurth HHS-2000 on the soft top bearings and door hinges.
12-12-2012, 12:42 PM
#22
Race Director
UPDATED service history in the second post, covering everything back to 2009 and the 60k service. (Thank god the independent shop that serviced it was willing to tell me these details.)
The thing that really jumps out at me: multi A/C compressors in one year. surely they cannot all be faulty? or maybe that shop got a bad batch.... the most recent one was installed by another shop, so we will see.
What the heck would kill multiple A/C compressors?
The thing that really jumps out at me: multi A/C compressors in one year. surely they cannot all be faulty? or maybe that shop got a bad batch.... the most recent one was installed by another shop, so we will see.
What the heck would kill multiple A/C compressors?
OEM is not the same as OE.
Or the system was not properly serviced. After repairs IIRC the system is subjected a vacuum for 30 minutes during which time leaks are checked for.
The the system is recharged with refrigerant and *pump oil*. A specific amount of both items. If too much or too little refrigerant is added, or the wrong kind but hard to believe that could happen, or if the too little or too much or possibly even the wrong kind of pump oil is added...
Be sure too both radiator fans come on -- while the engine is running -- when the A/C is turned on and the snowflake symbol appears.
12-12-2012, 12:48 PM
#23
Race Director
Running a serpentine belt until it breaks is a lousy way to know it needs replacement.
The belt can take out a wiring harness or a fuel line. Even if there is no immediately collateral damage if say one is tooling down the road and the belt breaks the water pump stops turning right now. There is considerable heat load in the engine that even if the engine was shut off right then and there would have the coolant quite hot and under considerable pressure. The system should be able to take it but why risk it?
Also, the tendency is for the driver to press on because the temp gage doesn't show any signs of overheating. But the coolant is not flowing and the temp gage can't measure what doesn't come in contact with it. So the engine gets hotter and hotter then ...
The belt is so easy to get at, check and if one has any doubts replace there's no excuse to let its condition at least go unknown.
The belt can take out a wiring harness or a fuel line. Even if there is no immediately collateral damage if say one is tooling down the road and the belt breaks the water pump stops turning right now. There is considerable heat load in the engine that even if the engine was shut off right then and there would have the coolant quite hot and under considerable pressure. The system should be able to take it but why risk it?
Also, the tendency is for the driver to press on because the temp gage doesn't show any signs of overheating. But the coolant is not flowing and the temp gage can't measure what doesn't come in contact with it. So the engine gets hotter and hotter then ...
The belt is so easy to get at, check and if one has any doubts replace there's no excuse to let its condition at least go unknown.
12-12-2012, 12:56 PM
#24
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Running a serpentine belt until it breaks is a lousy way to know it needs replacement.
The belt can take out a wiring harness or a fuel line. Even if there is no immediately collateral damage if say one is tooling down the road and the belt breaks the water pump stops turning right now. There is considerable heat load in the engine that even if the engine was shut off right then and there would have the coolant quite hot and under considerable pressure. The system should be able to take it but why risk it?
Also, the tendency is for the driver to press on because the temp gage doesn't show any signs of overheating. But the coolant is not flowing and the temp gage can't measure what doesn't come in contact with it. So the engine gets hotter and hotter then ...
The belt is so easy to get at, check and if one has any doubts replace there's no excuse to let its condition at least go unknown.
The belt can take out a wiring harness or a fuel line. Even if there is no immediately collateral damage if say one is tooling down the road and the belt breaks the water pump stops turning right now. There is considerable heat load in the engine that even if the engine was shut off right then and there would have the coolant quite hot and under considerable pressure. The system should be able to take it but why risk it?
Also, the tendency is for the driver to press on because the temp gage doesn't show any signs of overheating. But the coolant is not flowing and the temp gage can't measure what doesn't come in contact with it. So the engine gets hotter and hotter then ...
The belt is so easy to get at, check and if one has any doubts replace there's no excuse to let its condition at least go unknown.
And then do them annually after that, planning ahead.
12-12-2012, 12:58 PM
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A few bad eggs in the box or maybe they're all bad, just crummy pumps.
OEM is not the same as OE.
Or the system was not properly serviced. After repairs IIRC the system is subjected a vacuum for 30 minutes during which time leaks are checked for.
The the system is recharged with refrigerant and *pump oil*. A specific amount of both items. If too much or too little refrigerant is added, or the wrong kind but hard to believe that could happen, or if the too little or too much or possibly even the wrong kind of pump oil is added...
Be sure too both radiator fans come on -- while the engine is running -- when the A/C is turned on and the snowflake symbol appears.
OEM is not the same as OE.
Or the system was not properly serviced. After repairs IIRC the system is subjected a vacuum for 30 minutes during which time leaks are checked for.
The the system is recharged with refrigerant and *pump oil*. A specific amount of both items. If too much or too little refrigerant is added, or the wrong kind but hard to believe that could happen, or if the too little or too much or possibly even the wrong kind of pump oil is added...
Be sure too both radiator fans come on -- while the engine is running -- when the A/C is turned on and the snowflake symbol appears.
I'll check the fans. Maybe that will show as an issue.
Otherwise I'll have a factory trained tech at a indie Porsche garage replace it the next time, if it fails, on the theory that he is likely to do it right.
12-12-2012, 03:37 PM
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Updated the service history, since I got more info from the dealership that serviced it for the first 10 years (though they only had from 2005 to 2009 in their computer, so that is what they could tell me).
https://rennlist.com/forums/boxster-...l#post10063799
I see that the A/C failed three times in the last two years of service at the dealer, and the dealer was never able to get it right. And on the third failure, the owner decided to go to a new shop to get it serviced. And then it kept failing, again and again. (And of course, when the broker/dealer we bought it from got the car, he ALSO got the A/C compressor replaced!)
If I am counting right, that is six compressors in five years. We may just put the top down and hang with the heat.....
https://rennlist.com/forums/boxster-...l#post10063799
I see that the A/C failed three times in the last two years of service at the dealer, and the dealer was never able to get it right. And on the third failure, the owner decided to go to a new shop to get it serviced. And then it kept failing, again and again. (And of course, when the broker/dealer we bought it from got the car, he ALSO got the A/C compressor replaced!)
If I am counting right, that is six compressors in five years. We may just put the top down and hang with the heat.....
12-12-2012, 05:14 PM
#27
Burning Brakes
No earthly reason to replace the serpentine every year. Maybe inspect every year and replace every 5 years or 30K. And stash the old one in the front trunk so you have an onboard spare in case it should break miles from a dealer.
12-12-2012, 05:57 PM
#28
take pics
12-12-2012, 08:20 PM
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Anyway, we're taking it in for a clutch/IMS job, tomorrow. The AOS was done recently, so we're leaving that as is. Now that we can see the detailed history back 7 years, and see the clutch has never been replaced, we feel good about be proactive.
They'll take a look at the belt and decide whether the PPI was right about the belt needing to be replaced. Gonna have the take care of the brake fluid, too.