nathan_h

We recently picked up a 2000 S, and are happy to join your ranks!

Been reading through many threads to get educated, and have had the car thoroughly checked over -- and now we're ready for the inevitable set of maintenance tasks. But I'm not sure which are the most critical so I'm hoping to get some advice.

I have read up most of these in independent topics, so I know we need to address them all, and have a reasonable idea of what each entails. But I'm not certain on the order, since I think we'll have to spread out the tasks over the first year of ownership. I want to do the most important things, first.

The car has about 75k miles on it. Single owner but incomplete service records. We can see, for example, that he or she was diligent about annual oil changes, even though they never hit the mileage threshold. Like that.

But it's not clear they did some of the larger things, especially the most recent 60-75k items one would want to see done.

Here are the results of the smog test, before we bought it. These look like good numbers to me, which is one of the things that convinced me the "bones" were good.

nathan_h

August 2004 25k miles

Oil and Filter
Brake Fluid Flush
O2 sensor replaced
Back seat bracket replaced
new floor mats
wipers and fluid
windshield washer fluid leak, hose under fender replaced


April 2005 29k miles

four wheel alignment, possible belt strut left rear issue but not investigated
new right rear tire installed
30k service performed inc oil and filter


Jan 2006 35k miles

shield hanging down under vehicle, repaired rear flap


Feb 2006 35k miles

O2 sensor replaced, bank on before catalytic converter


April 2006 36k miles

left low beam bulb replaced


May 2006

replaced completed steering lock and switch
oil and filter


Jan 2007 40 k miles

right low beam bulb replaced


april 2007 42 k miles

oil and filter


jan 2008 47k miles

ABS and battery lights on, replaced to line #2
replaced water pump and belt
brake fluid flushed


June 2008 50k miles

oil and filter
front brake pads, rotors, hardware and wear sensors replaced
A/c blowing warm air -- found low pressure indicating low refrigerant. performed evac and recharge, aded dye. checked for leaks with UV lamp. none found.
rear inner and out CV boots and clamps replaced


August 2008 52k miles

A/C blowing warm air. used UV lamp to check for leaks. found suctio line service prob leaking. replaced AC line, evac and recharged


May 2009 57k miles

A/C blowing warm air. system low of freon. found leak at drier bottle o-rings. replaced k-rings, recharged system.


July 2009 59k miles

A/C blowing warm air. A/C charge low, found small leak at evaporator (not replaced, and then the owner went to a different shop)



-------moved to new mechanic--------



August 2009, 60k miles:

"60k service: replace air, fuel and cabin filters. replaced spark plugs, multi rib belt, oil and filter"
"customer request: check A/C evap. found evap core. replace evap core vacuumed and recharge system. low pressure is 28 psi. high pressure is 200psi and center vent temp is 45 degrees"

ITEMS:

• AC Evaporator
• Refrigerant
• Air Filter
• Fuel FIlter
• Oil Filter
• ACC Cabin FIlter
• Spark Plugs x6
• Multi Rib Belt
• Air Filter
• SYNOW40 Synthetic

Nov 2010, 66k miles:

check engine light=code p1130 fuel system trim code. found broken oil filter pipe that could be causing fault. replaced oil line.
"porsche minor service": change oil and filter, various checks
new tires, mounting and balancing, valve stems and weights

ITEMS:

• Brake clean: spray cleaner
• Oil Line
• Air FIlter
• Dip Stick tube
• Oil Filter
• Synthetic 5w-40
• BFG SUP and SP tires (all four tires new)

Nov 2011, 70k miles:

replaced both rear brake lights


Jan 2012, 70k miles:

check engine light: P0507 idle air RPM. no vacuum leak. recommend clean throttle body.

ITEMS:

• Wiper blades
• Air Filter
• clean throttle body

Feb 2012, 71k miles:

check engine light:

• P1130 O2 sensor adaptation idle reange fault bank 2,
• P11285 O2 sensor adaptation ideal range bank 1,
• 0507 idle air control RPM high. replace oil separator.

white smoke: oil separator leaking.

ITEMS:

• O-RING 2#
• oil vent line
• oil seperator

April 2012, 72k miles:

replace single BFG SUP tire, mounting and balancing


May 2012:

"porsche minor service"
check tire thump, rattle in rear
replace AC compressor, replace alternator

ITEMS:

• oil change
• alternator/generator replaced (alternator 150)
• air filter
• A/C compressor
• A/C refrigerant
• A/C receiver
  
  

Early Sept 2012, 73k miles:

A/C compressor replaced under warranty


(and then the car was traded in to a dealer)


Late Sept 2012, at the dealer we bought it from:

ITEMS:

• oil change
• a/c compressor (yes, again)
• heater fan
• left and right inner and outer CV boots
• cabin air filter
• wheel alignment
  

Service History (shops used):

• A lot of the work for the past three years was done at German Auto Repair in Fresno, CA. They very graciously helped me collect the details of the work done at the 60k service and forward (except the last service which was done at the dealer we bought it from).
• Prior to that, most of the maintenance appears to have been done at Michael Automotive Center, in Fresno, CA -- back to 2005, which is the oldest info I have. Michael Automotive is a Porsche dealer, so that's a good sign.* They were willing to share the details as far back as their system recorded them. Awesome.
• (I'm hoping that for the first four years of life, the original owner was using the dealership, as well, but the records are incomplete.)*

(*I'm not saying independents are less capable -- they are what I use -- but it's not a bad sign, and appears the original owner, it's a single owner vehicle, was following the letter of Porsche's maintenance plan and doing it all at a dealership.)

nathan_h

Here is a list of what the independent tech who evaluated the car flagged from a mechanical standpoint as issues.

• Brakes:
  • Front brakes at 7 mm and rear brakes at 5mm. So there is some life left. But the rotors are such that when we do the brakes, he recommends the rotors as well. I'm thinking this could wait another 10k miles and let us concentrate on more urgent things.
  • Brake fluid is "bad." Again, a regular item on the maintenance schedule. I have had many varied experiences with what one mechanic things is bad fluid versus what another thinks. So my approach is to just replace it at least as often as the manufacturer says.
• Transmission:
  • Transmission mount is "bad" he says. (From my searches, I can't tell whether this is critical but it sounds like it would be.)
  • Transmission pinion bearing is making a whining noise, which I understand is common.
  • There is a rotation noise from the IMS area -- which he noted doesn't mean it is in immenent likelyhood of failure but probably means it was never upgraded.
  • Clutch is at 50% of life. He noted that the operation is "poor/sticky" though to be honest it was much better than the other 986s we test drove.
    
    I guess I should mention that this independent tech works on a lot of nice cars, show cars and garage queens, etc, so his standards are high. Overall, when we told him what we paid (not a steal but still) his tone changed and said it wasn't a bad deal, even with all the things we'd need to take care of.
    
    That said, while the operation of the clutch feels solid to us, since the IMS likely hasn't been replaced and this may be the original clutch, at 75k it seems likely this should be on our short list (clutch, IMS, RMS, AOS, flywheel) of things to take care of.
    
• Drive belt is dry. If I am reading the maintenance guidelines right, the car would be due for a 2nd drive belt about now, anyway, and apparently while failure of the belt wouldn't cause damage, it would leave us stranded on the side of the road, so this seems like a no brainer, do it now, repair.
  
• Spark plug tube seals are leaking. So there is some oil in there. The recommendation is to replace to tubes and plugs. That would be something that scheduled maintenance (well, the plugs, not the tubes) would dictate around this mileage anyway, from what I can tell.
  
  
• Faults and codes:
  • No Faults in DME! Yeah.
  • Alarm module has faults. Not sure whether this matters or what it means. It seemed minor and I forgot to ask.
  • Air conditioner code present. I know that the air conditioner compressor was just replaced.

nathan_h

So I am thinking of doing things in this order:

First round:

• Brake fluid -- probably a DIY thing, must buy a motive pressure bleeder & fluid (duh)
• Drive belt ("serpentine" belt?) -- $40 for the part and 30 minutes to replace so probably a DIY thing. and the
• Water Pump while I have the belt off.
• Spark plugs and tubes
• Secure transmission to car (mount)
• Get leaves out of the radiator tubes
• Wurth HHS-2000 on the soft top bearings and door hinges

Second round:
Transmission: clutch and IMS, RMS, AOS, flywheel if needed (no history of a clutch having been replaced in the detailed history since 60k, nor in the sparse details about the maintenance history before 60k, all of which was done at a dealer)

Third round:

• Brakes and rotors. Would do sooner, and probably DIY, but they are at 50 and 70%, so can wait a little while.
• Oil change. Just done a month ago/100 miles ago, buy the people we bought it from, so probably won't do it right away -- but when I do, chopping the filter in half to look for debris will be the real benefit.

----

Am I missing something or making an obvious mistake?

ep3_lol

Sounds like a good plan. Not sure how necessary all of those second round items are though, if the clutch has 50% of its life left that means it ought to still be quite some ways from needing replacing. I might worry about the brakes first.

nathan_h

Thanks for the insight. Yeah, I can see what you mean. The clutch feels good to us (maybe our standards are low!) and if it's 50% at 75k.... well, I don't know whether that means it was ever done. Hopefully my request to the dealer that appears to have done the work for the first 10 years, to see their detailed records, will give me insight.

I probably wouldn't consider the clutch at all until it feels like it needs it, to us, except it's an excuse to get in there and also do the IMS. I'm guessing a dealer never does the IMS.... so even if this is the second clutch (a distinct possibility), the IMS wasn't replaced/upgraded.

I may move the brakes and rotors up in the schedule, since my buddy who has owned both a 80s era 928, and a 2000s era 986, says it's not a tough DIY and will help with it.

Definitely the brake fluid will be in the first round. (I think I can do that separately from the brakes and rotors, right?)

perfectlap

I would do the IMS/Clutch/RMS right off the bat. Do not pass go. Putting off the clutch job is not worth the gamble. You'll only save few hundred bucks. Meanwhile if you do the IMS,/clutch you'll get utlitily from a new clutch and peace of mind from the addressing the IMS. Win win.

Once a year oil changes, if done with Mobil 1, give me a little concern. According to the engine experts on these various forums the M1 reformulation was not optimal for a car that might only see five oil changes in five years. There are some definite and unfavorable views about Mobil 1. If that's indeed done the IMS no favors better to get on it now via the LN upgrade.

I change the oil twice a year and use Castrol Edge. Autzone usually has a sale at some point for about $5 quart (normailly $8 in these parts) but I might spring for something better going forward.

nathan_h

Thanks for this.

Question: when you say delaying the clutch replacement saves a few hundred bucks I think you mean 2k bucks approx, right?

I'm still inclined to agree with you, especially since we have some places in the South Bay who have done lots of the IMS jobs. I agree that saving 2k short term, when I know I have to spend it before too long anyway, and risking junking a 15k car, is not smart!

Regarding oil changes, that's good to know. Looks like the first ten years were always done at the dealership. I don't know what their standard oil is, but going forward I'll keep that in mind.

nathan_h

Update: I see in the ppi notes there are leaves in the radiator during or drains, which I assume should get removed!

Macster

Whether to go with the IMSB upgrade or not is up to you. If you do then as another posted wisely advised this should come first.

If you do elect to do the IMSB upgrade then of course a new clutch/pressure plate, release bearing, and of course having the flywheel checked out fora properly functioning dual mass feature is in the cards. Whether to replace or resurface another serviceable FW is up to you and your mechanic. I am told by the various dealer techs I speak with they will send a FW out to be resurfaced which saves the owner some money.

If you do not elect to have the IMSB upgrade done and of course leave the clutch alone for now, have a clutch (and brake) fluid flush/bleed done.

Also, I'd do the spark plugs and tubes soon because I generally do not like oil leaks and there is a risk of leaving the old plugs in too long. In fact Porsche service schedule IIRC has the plugs due to be changed on time if not on miles.

The serpentine belt is an inexpensive part and an easy DIY job.

If the CV boots are cracked/split they must be addressed. The tech will remove the shafts, clean and inspect the CV bearings, and if he finds them ok repack them and fit new boots and install the shafts. My 02 Boxster when through this and the shafts/bearings were found to be just fine with over 200K miles on the original shafts/bearings. Replacing these is expensive so you don't want to if you don't have to, if they don't require replacing.

As someone else touched upon treat the radiator ducts to a thorough cleaning which requires the front bumper be removed and the A/C condensers unbolted and swung -- gently! -- out of the way to expose the area between the condenser and radiator.

For the brakes as long as they are working ok, with no signs of trouble, keep on driving. I've run many a pad set down the warning light point and one set way beyond with no ill effects save the ghost image of the brake warning light burned in to the retinas of my eyes.

Unless it was done recently and documented replace the engine and cabin air filters.

Check the body water drains and clean.

With the car in the air give the water pump a good check for signs of leakage. When you replace the serpentine belt if the belt has a sharp edge that's a sign it is rubbing due to mis alignment and my experience is this comes form a bad water pump (the bearing play moves the pulley out of alignment enough the belt rubs). While you have the belt off check all accessory drives for any excessive play. Most often if there is any it is with the water pump and this is a sign the pump needs to be replaced.

At the same time the cooling system can be refilled with a fresh batch of Porsche anti-freeze and distilled water using a vacuum lift system to ensure a full refill with no air pockets.

Oh, let me also add if the motor mounts are bad to have them addressed. I'm always concerned about bad motor mounts allowing the engine to move about too much a flex fuel lines, hoses, bind shift linkage, or put excessive pressure on the transmission input shaft.

PV38

Hey Nathan Congrats again here

perfectlap

$2K if your flywheel isn't burnt. The longer you wait the more that becomes possible. That puppy isn't cheap. That brought the cost of my IMS/Clutch/RMS/FLywheel to $3K. Oh and there was another couple grand of stuff to do on top of that.

Before I hit 70K miles I'd had exactly one unexpected repair in all those many years. Throttle body, barely $300 at the dealer. Overall, by far the most reliable car I'd owned. Once I crossed over 70K miles all the winter driving without really being proactive on major maintenance finally caught up to me. Shocks were fried and control arms. Starter AND alternator went. Followed up by the coolant tank and AOS. A few dented wheels needed refinishing as well.
Moral of the story, budget $2K a year even if you don't spend it. You could have two back to back repairs on this car that run an easy $4K. Best to do something every year with your local Indy. Saves on towing charges...

p.s.
Last night I drove the car in in 52 degree weather top down. Engine seems to love that type of weather. Turned up the cabin heat (to warm up the rear plastic window before lowering), turned up the radio and thought ot myself "man this car makes buying anything new pointless". At one point a light drizzle started up but I simply went faster. No problemo.

nathan_h

Thanks for the detailed response. Yeah, I think the clutch IMS etc should be on the short list. Sooner or later, gotta do it, and better safe than sorry.

Good to hear the belt is a DIY possible thing. Now to find the time....

For the CV boots, the recent maintenance record (this year) says "left and right inner and outer CV boots replaced". Does that cover it, or are you saying there's something more that might have been needed, while that went on? (I think that's what you are saying.)

Both air filters are recently replaced, so that's good, I think.

It's not the motor mounts but the transmission mounts that were flagged in the PPI.... or are they the same thing, or same worry?

The cooling system was low, so that's a good catch! And I haven't delved into the water pump, so that's very helpful advice.

nathan_h

Thanks! We're excited to have it in the driveway (more excited when driving it).

Macster

Without the repair invoice or being able to speak with the tech that did the job one can't know for sure that the CV bearings were cleaned, inspected and found ok for reuse. The former owner might have opted to just have the boots replaced.

If you can't find out I'd not worry too much about it. Either the CV joints were done right, or were done wrong. If wrong they may still be ok. If not you'll know soon enough.

Motor and transmission mounts are different but the advice applies. Do not delay in replacing any that are bad.

If the cooling system was low on fluid odds are there is a leak. Could be the coolant tank cap. If the part # ends in '00' or '01', get a new one. '04' is the latest rev of the cap, IIRC.

But the water pump could be leaking around the pump shaft seal, a radiator could be leaking -- the build up of trash around the radiators leads to corrosion from the outside. Or the coolant tank could be leaking.

One "test" is to get the engine nice and hot, fully up to temp then park the car somewhere and raise the rpms to 1500 and hold until the radiator fans come on. Oh, be sure the A/C is off so the fans only come on when the coolant temp hits 212F.

As soon as you hear the fans come on shut off the engine. The heat will raise the coolant temp and pressure and if there's weak spot in the cooling system you'll soon know it. Follow the stream of *hot* coolant back to where it is coming from.

Check the power steering pump reservoir. If the fluid is low suspect a high pressure relief valve in a line has failed and the rack is being fed too high a pressure of fluid. This forces fluid past the rack seals into the dust boots. This ruins the rack, and of course the line with the bad valve. If the pump runs low on fluid this can ruin the pump. The first obvious sign something's amiss is a noisy power steering pump. But by then it is too late. Check the power steering fluid. If low follow the lines from the pump to the rack and back to the pump again. If no leaks spotted the rack dust boots will have to be checked/squeezed for any signs they are full of power steering pump fluid.