WTB: '97-99 race car candidate
#1
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
WTB: '97-99 race car candidate
If anyone knows of low cost donor Boxsters, '97-99, please let me know. Blown motors, salvage titles, etc., make particularly good candidates.
#4
GT3 player par excellence
Lifetime Rennlist
Member
Lifetime Rennlist
Member
#5
GT3 player par excellence
Lifetime Rennlist
Member
Lifetime Rennlist
Member
a good running car is 10-12k, so go from there.
go here: http://www.boxsterspec.com/portal.html
PM brad, he often has donors sitting around or knows of donor for cheap.
#6
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
Sigh. It appears that might be the plan. Three of the top GTC1 drivers migrated away from the class this year. Two more were talking Spec Boxster at this past weekend's Thunderbolt race as they are looking for lower running costs (e.g., no slicks). So... left with less competition and an admitted appeal to lower running costs.... YES! I think I may go the Spec Boxster route.
I would be interested to hear about reliability, etc. I am really nervous about racing one of the "consumer" Porsches, specifically for reliability reasons.
I do appreciate any/all guidance on cost expectations for buying a car and building it (I will do everything but the cage myself) and running costs.
I would be interested to hear about reliability, etc. I am really nervous about racing one of the "consumer" Porsches, specifically for reliability reasons.
I do appreciate any/all guidance on cost expectations for buying a car and building it (I will do everything but the cage myself) and running costs.
Trending Topics
#9
GT3 player par excellence
Lifetime Rennlist
Member
Lifetime Rennlist
Member
charlie,
Reliability:
Motor life is NOT mileage dependent for some reason. I know of 4 BSR locally (inc mine), all are runny strong. The oldest one has >100k miles, and raced 3 y years. The newest has 60k miles and still going. Of the four, a 70k miles motor went, raced just one year. But you can find donor motor without core exchange for 3500-4000.
Tranny:
I lost mine. My car is the newest of the 4, with 60k miles. My mechanic said I shift way too fast thus I killed it. However, I have also heard racers in so cal (20+ cars) that they often have “crunch” sound going from 2nd to 3rd (I do too). But this occurs usually ½ way into a race. So I think it’s hot fluids. Some ppl are trying tranny coolers next year to see. I found a donor gearbox, shipped, and installed for $1700.
Tires:
Spec is R888 toyos 225/255, some regions allow 255/255. On avg, less than $800/set. I prefer to have less than 20HC on them, but they will last for 35HC+
Rotors:
Strangely front and rear often cost same, depending on how hard you shop they go from $110-130 ea rotor. I need three sets front and 2 sets rear per year (but I also do 35 days, 10-12 days of which are races and I really don’t know how to brake other than jam on them, so I kill them a lot faster than other’s who can drive), most ppl should just need 2 sets front and 1 rear at MOST.
Pads:
Pagid black $245 front, $212 rear. I need 4 front and 3 rears. Most others should be fine with 2 set front and 1 set rear per year.
I think even if you lose a motor every other season, it’s still cheaper than any split case engine refresh/rebuilds, right?
Build cost: a lot of money are in gutting, so you will save since you DIY. Big dollar items….
Hardtop: $1500 with paint
Cage: 3-4000
Nice seat, rail, nets and hardware: 2000
Fire system 500
Misc kill switch, tow hooks, str wheel blah blah 1500
Pss9: 2500 (I paid 1800, as street prices varies dramatically, and they did just have a price hike)
Springs: 400
Sway bars front rear (gt3 and tarret respectively ) 1000
GT3 control arm: 1500
Go ahead and replace all wheel bearings 70/ea. This is a weak point of the car. New bearing every year for me.
These are pertinent stuff, but there are some WHILE YOU ARE IN IT, JUST DO IT things like….
Engine mount
Tranny mount
Old dead bushings
Short shift kit
Center radiator
Lwt flywheel and new clutch etc
New fluids obviously
ROUGHLY I think $15000 on top of the donar car should do it.
Then you can add data, wheel studs, cool suit etc… the minor items never ends but if you do most of your own work, I can’t see it exceed $30k inc the car.
Sorry for rambling, but I think I covered most of it.
PM me if you got more Q’s
Reliability:
Motor life is NOT mileage dependent for some reason. I know of 4 BSR locally (inc mine), all are runny strong. The oldest one has >100k miles, and raced 3 y years. The newest has 60k miles and still going. Of the four, a 70k miles motor went, raced just one year. But you can find donor motor without core exchange for 3500-4000.
Tranny:
I lost mine. My car is the newest of the 4, with 60k miles. My mechanic said I shift way too fast thus I killed it. However, I have also heard racers in so cal (20+ cars) that they often have “crunch” sound going from 2nd to 3rd (I do too). But this occurs usually ½ way into a race. So I think it’s hot fluids. Some ppl are trying tranny coolers next year to see. I found a donor gearbox, shipped, and installed for $1700.
Tires:
Spec is R888 toyos 225/255, some regions allow 255/255. On avg, less than $800/set. I prefer to have less than 20HC on them, but they will last for 35HC+
Rotors:
Strangely front and rear often cost same, depending on how hard you shop they go from $110-130 ea rotor. I need three sets front and 2 sets rear per year (but I also do 35 days, 10-12 days of which are races and I really don’t know how to brake other than jam on them, so I kill them a lot faster than other’s who can drive), most ppl should just need 2 sets front and 1 rear at MOST.
Pads:
Pagid black $245 front, $212 rear. I need 4 front and 3 rears. Most others should be fine with 2 set front and 1 set rear per year.
I think even if you lose a motor every other season, it’s still cheaper than any split case engine refresh/rebuilds, right?
Build cost: a lot of money are in gutting, so you will save since you DIY. Big dollar items….
Hardtop: $1500 with paint
Cage: 3-4000
Nice seat, rail, nets and hardware: 2000
Fire system 500
Misc kill switch, tow hooks, str wheel blah blah 1500
Pss9: 2500 (I paid 1800, as street prices varies dramatically, and they did just have a price hike)
Springs: 400
Sway bars front rear (gt3 and tarret respectively ) 1000
GT3 control arm: 1500
Go ahead and replace all wheel bearings 70/ea. This is a weak point of the car. New bearing every year for me.
These are pertinent stuff, but there are some WHILE YOU ARE IN IT, JUST DO IT things like….
Engine mount
Tranny mount
Old dead bushings
Short shift kit
Center radiator
Lwt flywheel and new clutch etc
New fluids obviously
ROUGHLY I think $15000 on top of the donar car should do it.
Then you can add data, wheel studs, cool suit etc… the minor items never ends but if you do most of your own work, I can’t see it exceed $30k inc the car.
Sorry for rambling, but I think I covered most of it.
PM me if you got more Q’s
#11
I've seen several in the DC area in the $7-9K range over the summer.. If i had known sooner, I would have sent you links!
No interest in taking the Cup car "vintage" racing? I saw jenks post his car for sale recently..
I think Spec Boxster would be a blast!
Ha.. reliability issues? you owned a Boxster.. it was trouble free ok ok I tease.. Yup.. Just get 1-2 spare motors to haul with you. Most used ones are in the $2500-4500 range, iirc. you could buy 5 of these for the price of a proper 964 Cup rebuild.
No interest in taking the Cup car "vintage" racing? I saw jenks post his car for sale recently..
I think Spec Boxster would be a blast!
Ha.. reliability issues? you owned a Boxster.. it was trouble free ok ok I tease.. Yup.. Just get 1-2 spare motors to haul with you. Most used ones are in the $2500-4500 range, iirc. you could buy 5 of these for the price of a proper 964 Cup rebuild.
#12
Here is one a friend of mine has for sale ,, he was going to build a spec boxster out of it but has decided not to.
http://www.pedrosgarage.com/Site/Porsches_for_Sale.html
http://www.pedrosgarage.com/Site/Porsches_for_Sale.html
#13
Addict
Rennlist Member
Rennlist Member
I bought a 99 with a bad motor for $4000.00 I figure I'll be in the mid-$20's by the time I am done. I currently have a donor motor sitting in the garage waiting for me to finish dropping the old motor. I've not done a damn thing on it since January. At the rate I am moving, I'll first be racing it in a vintage class.
#14
Rennlist Member