is there supposed to be oil in there??
#16
Pro
Thread Starter
I know what it is now, but wow
#17
Pro
Thread Starter
:rofl: I get welding supplies cheap. I like wearing these when the motor is hot. These typically work pretty well with most automotive work, but i do agree that latex works better. My wife used the last ones i had, so i need to restock.
I did notice that the intake tubing had "spacers" that i had made sure that they lined up with the lines and arrows.
thanks for the advice. I'm not sure if i'm really qualified to work on this car but i'm trying like hell. It is nothing like my japanese car, that's for sure.
Holy crap garden glove man!!! Are you qualified to work on this car!!!
*Oil in and around the intake is normal as 99firehawk stated. Do not replace the AOS if the car is not smoking alot and or is pulling way to much vaccume on crankcase.
* Power steering fluid is called pentosin CHF 11s, call the dealer!!
* Yes that check valve must be connected!!! As rdshon post spells out. Note this is a one way valve, easy way to not screw it up is "black on black"
the black end always connects to the intake witch is black!
*You must be carefull when installing the intake boots. They must be centered on the crossover pipes, they also must be on all the way around. Make sure the hose clamps are square and not all jacked up when you tighten them.
* Make damn sure you get the vacuume line connected on the tunning flap located in the back intake runner too.
* And get some rubber latex or nitrile gloves too!! Helps with that whole hand dexterity thing!! Kinda important when working on cars!
Good luck,
*Oil in and around the intake is normal as 99firehawk stated. Do not replace the AOS if the car is not smoking alot and or is pulling way to much vaccume on crankcase.
* Power steering fluid is called pentosin CHF 11s, call the dealer!!
* Yes that check valve must be connected!!! As rdshon post spells out. Note this is a one way valve, easy way to not screw it up is "black on black"
the black end always connects to the intake witch is black!
*You must be carefull when installing the intake boots. They must be centered on the crossover pipes, they also must be on all the way around. Make sure the hose clamps are square and not all jacked up when you tighten them.
* Make damn sure you get the vacuume line connected on the tunning flap located in the back intake runner too.
* And get some rubber latex or nitrile gloves too!! Helps with that whole hand dexterity thing!! Kinda important when working on cars!
Good luck,
#18
Since you are already there. pull out the vacum canister and check the bottom of it for cracks. usulay cracks around the bottom, hard to explain but easy once you see the canister.
#19
Team Owner
#20
Pro
Thread Starter
lol, i'm an idiot. I guess it's like watching a movie over and over, each time you notice something different.
That peice went into the tube towards the front of the car. I'll have to run it a couple days to see if the codes come back. I have a funny feeling that that if this is not the problem,the maf will need to be replaced.
I cleaned the MAF with maf cleaner, so we will see.
That peice went into the tube towards the front of the car. I'll have to run it a couple days to see if the codes come back. I have a funny feeling that that if this is not the problem,the maf will need to be replaced.
I cleaned the MAF with maf cleaner, so we will see.
#21
I don't know why people advise cleaning the MAF....once it's dirty enough to set off a CEL it's done. No fixing it.
If it's not broken don't fix it. i.e. attempting to clean the MAF,I've seen more damage done from people attempting to clean it then good.
If it's not broken don't fix it. i.e. attempting to clean the MAF,I've seen more damage done from people attempting to clean it then good.
#22
Pro
Thread Starter
well, 400 miles later and no light. Typically i would not use a maf cleaner, but i did in conjunction with the piece that i did not have connected, and the problem seems to have been corrected.
thanks all
thanks all