Clutch advice needed 2002 Boxster S 50K miles
#1
Burning Brakes
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Clutch advice needed 2002 Boxster S 50K miles
So just got word from the dealer that my rear main seal needs some work. I asked them what else they can do as preventative medicine in this area and they said they will look at the clutch when in there. So my questions are......
If the clutch looks worthy of being replaced, what do I put in?
What are the different pricing options of what you suggest?
I do about 25 track days a year with the car. At this point it is kinda a track only car as it has some suspension upgrades and graphics all over it. So not much of a daily driver any more. The other part is I will probably only keep the car as a track car for just this year and will replace it with something new. I may keep the car and send it over to Germany, but up in the air about all this.
Thanks in advance for any info/thoughts.....
If the clutch looks worthy of being replaced, what do I put in?
What are the different pricing options of what you suggest?
I do about 25 track days a year with the car. At this point it is kinda a track only car as it has some suspension upgrades and graphics all over it. So not much of a daily driver any more. The other part is I will probably only keep the car as a track car for just this year and will replace it with something new. I may keep the car and send it over to Germany, but up in the air about all this.
Thanks in advance for any info/thoughts.....
#2
I haven't done it yet, but my clutch is wearing out (40K on '00 S), and I think the OE is kinda wimpy to begin with. I'm planning on going for a LWFW and a SPEC clutch, something like 2+ or 3+.
#3
Herr Unmöglich
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Usually if the RMS isn't leaking bad, you wait til the clutch goes. That's what I am doing, with 62K on my 01S.
But, if you're gonna be in there, do the clutch at least.
But, if you're gonna be in there, do the clutch at least.
#4
Drifting
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unless it's dumping a ton of oil then you should wait, put a catch pan under the car so the garage doesn't get stained badly and so you can see how much is dripping
mine was dumping a 1/2 quart per month when I had it done at 35k miles, I didn't need a clutch (it was half worn) but did it anyway since it was just parts cost at that time because it was under warranty
mine was dumping a 1/2 quart per month when I had it done at 35k miles, I didn't need a clutch (it was half worn) but did it anyway since it was just parts cost at that time because it was under warranty
#5
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when i did my RMS, i also put in a new Aasco light weight flywheel and a spring centered spec clutch. the factory dual mass flywheel should be replaced if you have an RMS leak back there; the oil damages the elastomer spring on the flywheel. the aasco is only a few hundred more than the OEM flywheel & gives the car a bit more pep. definitely makes it more fun to drive....
#6
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If you are getting rid of the car at the years end, do as little as possible.
If you are keeping it, and are thinking of the clutch, I recommend a IMS upgrade from Flat Six Innovations or LN Engineering. That will future proof your car.
If you are keeping it, and are thinking of the clutch, I recommend a IMS upgrade from Flat Six Innovations or LN Engineering. That will future proof your car.
#7
Burning Brakes
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Hey Guys THANKS for the advice. Keep it coming as it is great to hear from others with experience. I am at such a loss of what to do with the car after I move on to the next car this fall. The Boxster will not really be worth much at that point, so little use in trading it in. Oh well, plenty of time to figure that out later but sure wish I knew what the future for the car was now. Considering sending it over to Germany and leaving it near the Ring, but don't know what is all involved with that process. Sure would be cool to go over there 2 to 3 times a year for a couple of years then dump the car.
Just thoughts.....
Just thoughts.....
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#8
Herr Unmöglich
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I really would like to have a car somewhere on the outskirts of Koeln. Just fly in, take the train, pick up your car, and you are there.
#9
insite, do you get any flywheel chatter at idle? What about what's described as "sizzle" around 3K RPM under heavy load. I drove a Cayman with a LWFW but the stock (unsprung) clutch, and the noise/vibration/harmonics at about 3K worried me. Some chatter at idle in neutral was barely noticeable/cause for concern to me. I'm trying to figure out if this is a drive train harmonic that would not be there with a sprung-hub clutch.
#10
...these cltches are nor weak. Dealers try to sell you on replacements. There are 200K and 150K clutches out there. My advice....leave it all alone.
You can live with an RMS leak and I doubt the clutch is bad unless you are a bad driver.
My experience with 3 Boxsters is clutches are fine..leaks present no real issues except for your garage floor....BUT the IMS bearing? well that's another story.
You can live with an RMS leak and I doubt the clutch is bad unless you are a bad driver.
My experience with 3 Boxsters is clutches are fine..leaks present no real issues except for your garage floor....BUT the IMS bearing? well that's another story.
#11
Both I think are your opinion. If you ask me bluntly, I'd say the stock clutch is a joke, although possibly adequate for the 2.5L. Maybe you get 150K and 200K if you drive like a grandma or all you do is commute freeway. I have an S, and drive it like it an S. I would not doubt that a dealer would try to sell you the kitchen sink, though.
I would agree with the other posters, if the RMS leak is not bad, wait until the clutch needs replacement. Check out LN Engineering for a potential IMS bearing retrofit when the time comes.
I would agree with the other posters, if the RMS leak is not bad, wait until the clutch needs replacement. Check out LN Engineering for a potential IMS bearing retrofit when the time comes.
#12
..Well I am a grandpa, but I auto cross, track and drive "con brio"...but some of us know how to use clutches. Oh yes, mine was an S too and I know many that are used hard and don't need clutch replace ments at 40-50K. Again IMSs are a different story...bad design, many failures.
Dealer's love to sell people on unecessary repairs.
Dealer's love to sell people on unecessary repairs.
#13
Race Director
When I had RMS/IMS o-ring/bolts upgraded I asked tech...
So just got word from the dealer that my rear main seal needs some work. I asked them what else they can do as preventative medicine in this area and they said they will look at the clutch when in there. So my questions are......
If the clutch looks worthy of being replaced, what do I put in?
What are the different pricing options of what you suggest?
I do about 25 track days a year with the car. At this point it is kinda a track only car as it has some suspension upgrades and graphics all over it. So not much of a daily driver any more. The other part is I will probably only keep the car as a track car for just this year and will replace it with something new. I may keep the car and send it over to Germany, but up in the air about all this.
Thanks in advance for any info/thoughts.....
If the clutch looks worthy of being replaced, what do I put in?
What are the different pricing options of what you suggest?
I do about 25 track days a year with the car. At this point it is kinda a track only car as it has some suspension upgrades and graphics all over it. So not much of a daily driver any more. The other part is I will probably only keep the car as a track car for just this year and will replace it with something new. I may keep the car and send it over to Germany, but up in the air about all this.
Thanks in advance for any info/thoughts.....
to give all the pivot points in the clutch hardware a dab of heavy high temp. grease. Upon getting car back clutch action noticably better, not engagement but pedal action.
Oh, I did ask clutch condition be evaluated and tech reported clutch in good condition no need to replace.
That was nearly 200,000K miles ago. Still on that clutch though based on clutch pedal effort I think I'm going to have new clutch installed shortly.
Clutches can go bad at any time. From mechanical failure to abuse/misuse/mistreatment.
All you can do is when you have RMS done ask clutch condition, all components, be evaluated and you advised of their condition. If bad enough to warrant replacement you should ask to see the components. Not outright, but something like oh I've never seen a clutch before I'd like to come by and take a look.
Not that you're in any position to second guess the mechanic. But it does sometimes separate the gotta replace now job to the well it is about 50% worn and this represents maybe years and years of driving depending how many miles you drive.
Oh, my clutch's long life is somewhat based on my driving usage. Lots of long distance trips. But over 216K miles I've probably covered more miles in stop/go driving that some owners have covered in their car, ever.
I don't use clutch to hold car on grade. I don't use clutch to slow car I use brakes for that. I don't track car but I do drive it, sometimes quite hard.
Sincerely,
Macster.