Buying a used Boxter - Strong & weak points?
04-29-2005, 02:46 AM
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Buying a used Boxter - Strong & weak points?
I apologize if I'm wasting bandwidth here, but I'm new to this list - and to Boxsters, too - and need your assistance.
A little background: I haven't logged in to Rennlist in years, but I'm an old "air cooled" person, having owned a few 911's in the past, and I even managed to wrangle some time after college working in a local Porsche service, restoration, and race prep business. But that was a decade-and-a-half ago. Beyond having driven a few I have NO real experience with Boxsters, - or with any of the newer generation Porsches. Thus, I need all the help I can get.
A friend has offered me their 1998 Boxster at what seems to be a very reasonable price. They're asking only $21k for a car with less than 20,000 miles from new, with all records and well-maintained. One-owner, manual shift (natch!).
I'm conversant with the technical features of the Boxster line - displacement, power, general handling characteristics, options, etc. What I am lacking is any knowledge of weak points, known faults and wear items, or what I might expect in terms of component failures and maintenance items on a now 7 years-old car. What have your experiences - as owners - been? What, if anything, tends to go wrong with these cars, and what problems can be avoided through replacement of parts and/or careful maintenance? What key areas should I look at when inspecting a car with an intent to purchase?
I have a pretty extensive library of magazines and books, but my own research - thus far - has turned up very little. Aside from some complaints about the quality of the interior trim and failures of things like the storage bin hinges and door handles, I've found very little. The body, drivetrain, and suspension apparently present no long-term failure or wear problems. The engine seems particularly durable. Are these impressions accurate? Most of the buyer's advice in the articles in the specialist mags seems to focus on the general - kerbed wheels, creased or crazed back windows, damaged top mechanism or seals, etc.
How about maintenance? The engine seems to be nearly inaccessible from above. How many of you prefer to do your own maintenance, as opposed to using a dealer or specialist? What about typical annual items and costs?
I hope I haven't wasted members' time and space with this request. Your advice is respectfully asked and, if given, will be duly appreciated. My sincere thanks to all who respond.
Terence Burns
A little background: I haven't logged in to Rennlist in years, but I'm an old "air cooled" person, having owned a few 911's in the past, and I even managed to wrangle some time after college working in a local Porsche service, restoration, and race prep business. But that was a decade-and-a-half ago. Beyond having driven a few I have NO real experience with Boxsters, - or with any of the newer generation Porsches. Thus, I need all the help I can get.
A friend has offered me their 1998 Boxster at what seems to be a very reasonable price. They're asking only $21k for a car with less than 20,000 miles from new, with all records and well-maintained. One-owner, manual shift (natch!).
I'm conversant with the technical features of the Boxster line - displacement, power, general handling characteristics, options, etc. What I am lacking is any knowledge of weak points, known faults and wear items, or what I might expect in terms of component failures and maintenance items on a now 7 years-old car. What have your experiences - as owners - been? What, if anything, tends to go wrong with these cars, and what problems can be avoided through replacement of parts and/or careful maintenance? What key areas should I look at when inspecting a car with an intent to purchase?
I have a pretty extensive library of magazines and books, but my own research - thus far - has turned up very little. Aside from some complaints about the quality of the interior trim and failures of things like the storage bin hinges and door handles, I've found very little. The body, drivetrain, and suspension apparently present no long-term failure or wear problems. The engine seems particularly durable. Are these impressions accurate? Most of the buyer's advice in the articles in the specialist mags seems to focus on the general - kerbed wheels, creased or crazed back windows, damaged top mechanism or seals, etc.
How about maintenance? The engine seems to be nearly inaccessible from above. How many of you prefer to do your own maintenance, as opposed to using a dealer or specialist? What about typical annual items and costs?
I hope I haven't wasted members' time and space with this request. Your advice is respectfully asked and, if given, will be duly appreciated. My sincere thanks to all who respond.
Terence Burns
04-29-2005, 08:24 AM
#2
I own a '97 with ~36K miles. Other than the first oil change (when new) it's never been to the dealer. I've done all my own maintenance on it. Mechanically, it's been very reliable, with the only problem being a small oil drip after ~20K miles (probably the Rear Main Seal (RMS), which is discussed at length on these boards). I've decided not to have it fixed at this point, I just keep a piece of cardboard under the car and clean off the oil that gets on the engine/transaxle each spring when I change the oil.
The main problems I've had are more electrical in nature (though, I can't complain about the battery, I just replaced the original after 8 years). The airbag warning light is always on, due to a known problem with the seat belt latch. The ignition switch is broken, but I've learned to live with that (there is a recall for this, I figure I'll have it done if I have to go to the dealer for something major). My light switch acts crazy sometimes; the front fog lights go on without activating their switch - I figured out how to handle this one, too. My most recent problem, just discovered last week, is that the emergency flasher switch seems to be broken. It turns on the flashers, but requires several attemps at turing them off before they actually go off! Oh well, I just won't turn them on again (unless there is a real emergency).
Although access to the top of the engine isn't as convenient as opening a hood of a car, it's not really that difficult; plus, there really isn't much under there that you need to be concerned about. Oil changes (once a year for me) and spark plugs (every 30K miles) are easy to get to from underneath, with the rear wheels removed. The accessory drive belt looks simple enough to change (I haven't done it yet, but it was posted here recently)
Overall, it has truly been a maintenance free, pleasure giving ride (for me), provided that you're willing to put up with small, shall we say, idiosyncrasies. This has been my experience, but beware, others have had major problems (engine replacements, etc, especially on '98s). Best of luck.
The main problems I've had are more electrical in nature (though, I can't complain about the battery, I just replaced the original after 8 years). The airbag warning light is always on, due to a known problem with the seat belt latch. The ignition switch is broken, but I've learned to live with that (there is a recall for this, I figure I'll have it done if I have to go to the dealer for something major). My light switch acts crazy sometimes; the front fog lights go on without activating their switch - I figured out how to handle this one, too. My most recent problem, just discovered last week, is that the emergency flasher switch seems to be broken. It turns on the flashers, but requires several attemps at turing them off before they actually go off! Oh well, I just won't turn them on again (unless there is a real emergency).
Although access to the top of the engine isn't as convenient as opening a hood of a car, it's not really that difficult; plus, there really isn't much under there that you need to be concerned about. Oil changes (once a year for me) and spark plugs (every 30K miles) are easy to get to from underneath, with the rear wheels removed. The accessory drive belt looks simple enough to change (I haven't done it yet, but it was posted here recently)
Overall, it has truly been a maintenance free, pleasure giving ride (for me), provided that you're willing to put up with small, shall we say, idiosyncrasies. This has been my experience, but beware, others have had major problems (engine replacements, etc, especially on '98s). Best of luck.
04-29-2005, 08:54 AM
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...those engine problems mentioned above, slipped sleeves in particular, are on '99 cars built between 9/98 and 4/99 or there about.
Not all of those built time cars are sleeved and not all sleeved cars fail...
Not all of those built time cars are sleeved and not all sleeved cars fail...
04-29-2005, 09:27 AM
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Mine is a 2000 MY with 62K miles.
Good Points
Maintenance isn't bad. I prefer to do my own, though, so it's much cheaper for me than most. It's a very easy car to work on for a DIYer.
The engine compartment takes awhile to get to, but once it's open it's actually more accessible than most other engines. That's due mainly to the fact you can reach all of your pulleys that are normally squished right behind the radiator in most cars from the panel that's behind the seats. Once the seats are pulled forward all the way and the panel is off, everything's in your face. The serpentine belt is simple to replace with one wrench needed to release the automatic tensioner.
Regular maintenance: The spark plugs are directly behind the rear wheels so they are very easy to change. No rotors or distributor caps to replace as there is a separate coil on top of each plug and I'm pretty sure it's a distributorless ignition. All of the filters (oil, air, cabin, fuel) are easy to get to. Brakes are a breeze, especially when it's just pads. They slide right out just like the older type on my 928 and I'd imagine like your old air-cooled. The anti-freeze is listed as lifetime and does not have a replacement interval, but I'd imagine that's impossible since the hoses are going to have to be replaced at some time, but still nice not to have to worry about it as much. Oil change interval is very nice at 15K miles with Mobil 1 synthetic. Nearly 10 quarts so it stays clean and the engine is well lubricated.
It loves to be driven hard and performs much better when you drive it hard just like the older models, but it doesn't tend to make the noises the older ones do if you don't keep it revving high all the time.
Lots of leg room and head room and comfortable to drive long distances. My wife is tall and this is one of two convertibles she could fit in comfortably.
The A/C is fantastic, even on hot days in GA with the top down. Top down, windows up and it's very comfortable even in the 90s.
Bad Points
The oil filter is a filiment replacement instead of the whole can. That part can be a messy job if you're not careful. Also, since the filler cap is in the trunk you have to be really careful when refilling the oil.
The interior scratches easily and there are no aluminum or other material replacements that I have found that make it worth replacing. Problems are mostly with the arm rests in the doors and the ash tray area. Also the radio ***** start to look nasty because they're rubber and collect dust, dirt and hand oils easily.
The fans tend to make a rattling sound after awhile. It's only when they are winding down after you turn off the engine, but something I didn't expect in a P-car.
Rocks can shoot straight through the front air intakes in the bumper and damage or kill your A/C compressor. It happend to my PO and he put some screens on the intakes after the dealer replaced the compressor under warranty.
The only mechanical problems I've had was an O2 sensor burning out at 30K miles and the bearings in the alternator started making noise at about 50K miles. Rebuild took care of the alternator and the O2 was under warranty.
Good Points
Maintenance isn't bad. I prefer to do my own, though, so it's much cheaper for me than most. It's a very easy car to work on for a DIYer.
The engine compartment takes awhile to get to, but once it's open it's actually more accessible than most other engines. That's due mainly to the fact you can reach all of your pulleys that are normally squished right behind the radiator in most cars from the panel that's behind the seats. Once the seats are pulled forward all the way and the panel is off, everything's in your face. The serpentine belt is simple to replace with one wrench needed to release the automatic tensioner.
Regular maintenance: The spark plugs are directly behind the rear wheels so they are very easy to change. No rotors or distributor caps to replace as there is a separate coil on top of each plug and I'm pretty sure it's a distributorless ignition. All of the filters (oil, air, cabin, fuel) are easy to get to. Brakes are a breeze, especially when it's just pads. They slide right out just like the older type on my 928 and I'd imagine like your old air-cooled. The anti-freeze is listed as lifetime and does not have a replacement interval, but I'd imagine that's impossible since the hoses are going to have to be replaced at some time, but still nice not to have to worry about it as much. Oil change interval is very nice at 15K miles with Mobil 1 synthetic. Nearly 10 quarts so it stays clean and the engine is well lubricated.
It loves to be driven hard and performs much better when you drive it hard just like the older models, but it doesn't tend to make the noises the older ones do if you don't keep it revving high all the time.
Lots of leg room and head room and comfortable to drive long distances. My wife is tall and this is one of two convertibles she could fit in comfortably.
The A/C is fantastic, even on hot days in GA with the top down. Top down, windows up and it's very comfortable even in the 90s.
Bad Points
The oil filter is a filiment replacement instead of the whole can. That part can be a messy job if you're not careful. Also, since the filler cap is in the trunk you have to be really careful when refilling the oil.
The interior scratches easily and there are no aluminum or other material replacements that I have found that make it worth replacing. Problems are mostly with the arm rests in the doors and the ash tray area. Also the radio ***** start to look nasty because they're rubber and collect dust, dirt and hand oils easily.
The fans tend to make a rattling sound after awhile. It's only when they are winding down after you turn off the engine, but something I didn't expect in a P-car.
Rocks can shoot straight through the front air intakes in the bumper and damage or kill your A/C compressor. It happend to my PO and he put some screens on the intakes after the dealer replaced the compressor under warranty.
The only mechanical problems I've had was an O2 sensor burning out at 30K miles and the bearings in the alternator started making noise at about 50K miles. Rebuild took care of the alternator and the O2 was under warranty.
04-29-2005, 02:44 PM
#5
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Dead reliable.
...'cept for having to replace the entire motor at 29,240 miles at my cost.
Otherwise...dead reliable.
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/showt...hreadid=209766
...'cept for having to replace the entire motor at 29,240 miles at my cost.
Otherwise...dead reliable.
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/showt...hreadid=209766
04-29-2005, 07:56 PM
#6
Originally Posted by dennis a from pa
...those engine problems mentioned above, slipped sleeves in particular, are on '99 cars built between 9/98 and 4/99 or there about.
Not all of those built time cars are sleeved and not all sleeved cars fail...
Not all of those built time cars are sleeved and not all sleeved cars fail...
Trending Topics
05-02-2005, 08:37 AM
#9
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Originally Posted by 82Targa
WOW you guys are painting a rosy picture. What about the rear main seal problems? What about the total engine failures Doug mentioned above?
The motor failures are really quite rare. But obviously happen enough to where they're known. The bottom line here is, if you're buying an early Boxster ('97-'99 with the 2.5 motor) it's best to a) get one from a dealership with a certified extended warranty from Porsche and/or b) get one with higher (yes, higher) miles. The reason I suggest this is the terminal motor failures usually happen in the first 30-35k miles. (..ish) If you find a nice Boxster with 50-75k miles, it's not likely to be a victim of these problems.
RMS is overblown...IF it happens it's an oil leak...barely worth the aspirin you take to ease the headache. Almost all of them are very fixable with a new seal.
One other option....buy a Boxster that has already had it's motor replaced. The remans are supposedly stronger than the "new" ones. (..i.e. never heard of a reman motor failing..) Of course, I happen to know somebody who has one for sale....
