MoreIBNR

I have to replace my brake pads on my 2002 Boxster. Does anyone have the appropriate torque values for the appropriate bolts I need to remove? Thanks.

Turboflyer

Have you ever done a brake job before. Not trying to sound like a know it all but there is a bit more than just the bolt torques you need to know. I would invest in the appropriate reference manual or CD before you dive in.

MoreIBNR

I've been doing brake jobs on my cars for the last 30 years. However, I realize there may be some unique things I need to know about in order to swap pads on my Boxster, so if in addition to the torque settings, I would really appreciate it if anyone could point these out also. I should note that I have no pulsing or other symptoms that would indicate anything amiss.

Turboflyer

I do apologige. I have an 01S but will try and find the specs. It just seem that some folks buy a Porsche and then want to start doing all their own maintenance with no back background at all. Brakes are simple but could be a real problem done wrong as i am sure you know. reminds me of the 59 nash I pulled the head on when I was a kid and had no clue what to do after that.

MoreIBNR

Thanks. I do want to do it soon (preferably today) to be ready for DE at Pocono this weekend.

Tool Pants

There is no torque values for a brake pad replacement. You pull out a clip and drive out a pin. Then pull the pads out.

The caliper does not need to be removed.

MoreIBNR

Thanks, Tool Pants. I haven't taken the wheel off yet or I would have seen that. Most of my previous/other cars require the removal of a bolt. I guess I should have looked first.

deliriousga

Yes...I love Porsche brakes. Easiest brake job you'll ever do. One hour, all four wheels. I used the Mintex Red Box low dust pads and they're nice. Very clean and stop well, but not for racing. Only extra step with those is you have to drill the wear sensor hole in the rear pads, but very easy to do.

Make sure you get new wear sensors if you haven't done the job yet. The plastic clips that hold them in fall apart from the heat when you pull them out of the old pads. Cheap insurance and you won't have to go back in like I did to replace them because they're popping out and flipping the light on.

Enjoy!!

MoreIBNR

Well, I guess I may have to go back in for the wear sensors because I didn't get new ones. I am surprised the people I bought the pads from didn't say anything.

I got the KFP Magnum Gold pads, which were recommended for both track and street - if I can stand the noise as they are reputed to squeal a bit. Supposed to last forever. We will see. Current pads just don't have enough left for DE, plenty for the street, though.

Gundo

Trygve's Ultimate Porsche Brake Job Instructions

I've used this info more than once and found to be very accurate

MoreIBNR

Thanks. I actually found that page after mucho searching. Finished the brake job - took longer than a hour, but I also took the opportunity to wash the wheels inside and out. Also, I had to tie up the wear sensors as the new pads did not have the appropriate holes for them. I guess I could have drilled the appropriate holes, but I am too lazy and didn't want to risk f***ing it up.

Anyway, took the car out and bedded in the pads. Seem to work real well.

Thanks for the help.

deliriousga

If the sensors' clips didn't break off when you pulled them out and the brake wear light wasn't on then there's no need to replace them. Since you tied them up, is the brake wear light coming on? I was going to leave them out on the rear pads since I replace them every time I do the front and they don't hit the sensors but the brake wear light stays on when the rear sensors are unplugged. Tying up the sensors sounds like a good alternative if the light doesn't come on.

Drilling is really easy if you go back in later. Just make sure the drill is set to a lower speed. The material is pretty soft. Did mine standing the pad up on the floor and holding the bit centered on the gap in the backing plate that holds the sensor clip. Make sure the bit is snug up against the backing plate. The hole has to be just big enough for the sensor probe to go in (I think 1/8", but not sure).

If the noise gets to you, get some Disc Brake Quiet in the spray can at NAPA. Pull the pads and clean the pad backing and the area of the caliper that contacts the pad. Spray the backs of all the pads and let it dry for about 10 minutes. Put everything back together and it should be quiet. There may be some dampers available like they have for the 928 too that clip into the calipers and keep the pads from moving and squealing.

Please let us know how you like the pads you bought. What was the price, how they last and if they are rough on the rotors would be great info to have.

MoreIBNR

Only have a minute - have to get to work, but, no the brake light is not on. I just folded the cable back on itself and used a plastic tie. Had to bed in the pads - highly recommended. Seem to be very effective, Will know more over the weekend after DE at Pocono. I have tried thee brake quiet stuff on other cars and was never impressed