When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
Cam Deviation and Variocam Solenoid Testing Confusion
Hi from Down Under (Aussie). In an attempt to ensure I can efficiently chase Kangaroos down the street and also avoid "drop bears" I conducted a health check on my 2000 2.7ltr 986. The results weren't so great....
Diag Tool: Autel AP200
Readings:
Camshaft Deviation Bank 1: -9.45 (best I saw was -8.3)
Camshaft Deviation Bank 2: No Reading available on my tool
Camshaft Actual Position Bank 1: Happily goes from 0 - 25 - 0 as the Variocam activates and deactivates
Camshaft Actual Position Bank 2: Starts around 0. Doesn't change on activation. Slowly goes up to 20 at max rpm(at Max rpm it should be 0ish)...not Solenoid activation affected
Fault Codes: No Fault Codes
Tests:
Bank 1 Solenoid Resistance: 13.7 Ohm
Bank 2 Solenoid Resistance: 15.2 Ohm
Bank 1 & 2 Sol Current Draw: 0.770A
Bank 1&2 Solenoid 12v at idle: Both Change engine note substantially
DME output to Bank 1 & 2: Both 13.06v on activation
12v direct to Bank 2: Nil effect to Actual Cam timing however clicking can be heard and engine note does change at idle. At rpm I can feel a dif
Disconnected Bank 1 & 2: Couldn't notice too much difference to power or delivery
I've changed one of the variocam pads on the right hand side of the engine(looking from the back of the car) My diag tool tells me that is bank 1....which has huge deviation for which it shouldn't. I do have a reasonable chain rattle at start up... always thought this was normal.
So......Do I actually have an issue? is my Autel scan tool leading me up the garden path ?? All physical tests point to all fine. Scan tool tells me other wise.
I would check the easiest first ....your timing on bank 1, spec I believe is( + or -6). Set your engine at TDC and pop the green cam plug and get an eye on the grooves....see if it lines up with the seam on the cam covers. There's lots of treads on how to do this. V
I would check the easiest first ....your timing on bank 1, spec I believe is( + or -6). Set your engine at TDC and pop the green cam plug and get an eye on the grooves....see if it lines up with the seam on the cam covers. There's lots of treads on how to do this. V
Looks pretty close If I rotated the crank 360 this would prob be in the 3:15 position .... Slightly past 3 O’clock again Looks pretty good
Testing shows the crank to exhaust cam relationship isn’t too bad. But the intake or variously pads may need changing? Not sure if I should be at 2:45 or 3 O’clock.....
Difficult to tell from pix. Compare with pix from the link I sent. It also explains where the intake groove should be at TDC. I quickly forgot after doing mine. I do remember that my intakes were not exactly 3:15 and 9:15 some have debated if that was correct or not.
Funny, I don't think I checked mine when I had it out....the spring actually feel out when removing my solenoid and I quickly put it back in order not to forget how it was assembled.Hope that was it. Are you doing it w engine in the car? V
Funny, I don't think I checked mine when I had it out....the spring actually feel out when removing my solenoid and I quickly put it back in order not to forget how it was assembled.Hope that was it. Are you doing it w engine in the car? V
Yes engine still in the car. Unfortunately the spring wasn't my problem I still have lazy VarioCam activation. Bank 1 goes to 25degrees and Bank 2 goes to 5degrees and eventually maxes out at about 12-16degrees. It also doesn't go back to zero above 5500rpm like Bank one does. I have a worn cam bearing that I theorize may have large clearance which may cause low oil pressure to the VarioCam actuator, in addition to this I have green rubber in the oil filter so I suspect the actuator is also toast.. Looking at replacing the entire head.
08-31-2019, 10:09 AM
Cam Deviation and Variocam Solenoid Testing Confusion
