Crank Position Sensor
#1
Crank Position Sensor
Hello, I have been having starting issues with my 2002 Boxster, and it finally went into non-drivable mode. I did my troubleshooting on the fuel pump and fuel pump relay (they checked out good). I am suspecting that the CPS could be bad. My question is when I go to the multiple dealers, the CPS has a price range from $40.00-$300.00. Does anybody know who sales the original OEM sensors, or ones that have no issues with Boxster's, and you don't get shafted by the Chinese knock-offs?
#3
Hello, I have been having starting issues with my 2002 Boxster, and it finally went into non-drivable mode. I did my troubleshooting on the fuel pump and fuel pump relay (they checked out good). I am suspecting that the CPS could be bad. My question is when I go to the multiple dealers, the CPS has a price range from $40.00-$300.00. Does anybody know who sales the original OEM sensors, or ones that have no issues with Boxster's, and you don't get shafted by the Chinese knock-offs?
#4
Crank Position Sensor
The engine will crank and run at idle after about 4 seconds of turning over (sometimes longer). It will idle correctly until you give it gas, then sounds like it is starving for gas. Once I was able to get RPM's up to 4,000 for around a second then RPM's shot down to around 500 and popping some from exhaust. RPM needle/gauge rises slightly when starting so I think the CPS is working properly. I ran the fuel pump with the jumper wire for around 50 miles with no starting issues or fuel issues, and the issue went away for that day, and then started back up the next day even with the jumper wire in the fuel pump relay bank. Something has to be controlling the fuel pressure which I have not checked yet. I also cleaned the MAF and Throttle body with the special MAF spray. Engine will idle correctly after long turnovers but once you give it gas, it struggles. When key is on, I can hear the throttle body opening and closing like it should. The Boxster is not my only car, but my main ride. I have a 2011 Dodge Ram 2500 and a 1979 Jeep CJ7. I will figure the problem out, and the best part of this is, I have learned so much about the car. This issue gave me about a weeks notice. I noticed that the car was taking longer to startup during the week, and one day at home, it was taking way to long to turn over, and then finally went into unable to get above 10MPH mode. Two crazy thing happened 1. I got a double alarm beep one day for the first time when turning off the engine. 2. I noticed the radio power would not turn on after I disconnecting the battery to check the fuel pump for about a week.
#5
It sounds more like the fuel pump electrical connection has too much resistance. Check the ground connection, which is where the problem most commonly occurs.
There is a pressure regulator where the fuel line attaches to the fuel rail, so you could try to replace that.
Actually, you should check that the fuel pressure is up to spec before doing anything. An indie can do that for you,
There is a pressure regulator where the fuel line attaches to the fuel rail, so you could try to replace that.
Actually, you should check that the fuel pressure is up to spec before doing anything. An indie can do that for you,
#6
It sounds more like the fuel pump electrical connection has too much resistance. Check the ground connection, which is where the problem most commonly occurs.
There is a pressure regulator where the fuel line attaches to the fuel rail, so you could try to replace that.
Actually, you should check that the fuel pressure is up to spec before doing anything. An indie can do that for you,
There is a pressure regulator where the fuel line attaches to the fuel rail, so you could try to replace that.
Actually, you should check that the fuel pressure is up to spec before doing anything. An indie can do that for you,
#7
Hard Cranking, No accelleration
Yes, my next is to test the fuel pressure on the fuel rail. I don't want to guess on purchasing a fuel pressure sensor ($100.00), and it not be the problem. Question: The fuel gauge has been broke since I bought the car, using the trip to fill up every 300 miles. Drove 26,000 miles with only issue oil/air separator. Anyway, with the current issue, I also took out the fuel gauge sensor in the tank and noticed that the fuel sensor in the tank also had a fuel filter internally attached. Could this also be an issue if the fuel filter could have too much resistance? Has anyone straight wired a 50 PSI external fuel pump ($50.00) on these cars? Do these Porsche Boxster fuel pumps only run off 12 volts, or does the volts change (high-low) during operation? The fuel tank gauge and fuel pump are completely over excessive engineering. Mr. Porsche should have kept it simple. Its a shame that the parts prices are so jacked up on these vehicles!