When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
Sorry for the delayed responses - hopefully not too late.
Originally Posted by Jack F
The AliExpress ones are a great deal. Are they actually stamped bmw?
Yeah surprisingly enough, they have BMW stamped on them. I noticed it and wondered if they were a knockoff or just a discount on BMW parts made in China. (They shipped direct from China.)
Photo from the AliExpress site:
Originally Posted by Jack F
What gauge wire did you use in the blue BMW connectors? Don’t know what a reasonable gauge for a tweeter is. Thanks
The connectors came with the wiring pre-installed, which saved me the hassle of buying a crimping tool of that size. Based on size and feel, I'd say it was 20 or 22 gauge wire.
I ran new wire from my JL Audio VX 800/8i to the tweeter locations using 18 gauge and created new male leads. It was a little heavy for a short run for tweeters, but I already had some.
I just did this in my GT3 (sound package plus car). .the stock tweeters were crackling and driving me nuts. I expected a slightly cleaner sound with the Dayton tweeters but OMG..it's a massive night and day difference. Hard to believe this was an under $40 investment and less than an hour of work.
Listening to anything before was barely tolerable, and now it's enjoyable again. Huge thank you to @flgfish for blazing the trail here.
First, @flgfish and others that have added value to this thread, THANK YOU very much for all of the information. I also followed your thread at mobile audio and learned a bunch.
I've ordered the DA tweeters and required caps and am very much looking forward to completing this modification as soon as the parts arrive. The harshness of the Bose system might be my single biggest complaint on my 991.2 Cab. I think I am going to follow @polobai 's method and pop the cap and connector from the Bose tweeter on the DA tweeter. Other than being more difficult to reverse, are there any drawbacks to that approach? Is there any new info from people that have done this recently that didn't make it to this thread?
My main question is "Is the concensus of everyone that has made substantial audio mods to the bose system that disconnecting the center channel is a positive?" Should I add some foam to dampen it, disconnect it completely, or just leave it in service? Is there any difference in recommendation for 'vert owners vs coupe owners?
Before disconnecting the sub or center speaker try fading the sound to the rear, I use -2 and I prefer using NO Bose sound processing or surround effects 👍🏼
I did not touch the center speaker when I had the DA tweeters installed with the stock SPP system.
It's simply not hooked up to anything in my current system. It's still up there in the dash though.
My goal was to remove the top round cover along with the cap and oem receptacle.
Dayton tweeter in place
cover removed and wires snipped close to the terminals so they reach the new tweeter
I followed this approach and it turned out great. One question, does it matter what terminal the cap lead is attached to? The da tweeters had a red t marked and a silver tab. I hooked the cap to the same terminal one each tweeter so I didn't have anything out of phase, but just wanted to confirm that I didn't make any mistakes. The sound improvement is very much worth the cost and effort at first listen. Thanks all who added to this thread.
I followed this approach and it turned out great. One question, does it matter what terminal the cap lead is attached to? The da tweeters had a red t marked and a silver tab. I hooked the cap to the same terminal one each tweeter so I didn't have anything out of phase, but just wanted to confirm that I didn't make any mistakes. The sound improvement is very much worth the cost and effort at first listen. Thanks all who added to this thread.
Great pics, nice clean install. My understanding is that the cap should be on the positive side terminal of the tweeter so that it is in-line to filter the input signal to the tweeter.
Great pics, nice clean install. My understanding is that the cap should be on the positive side terminal of the tweeter so that it is in-line to filter the input signal to the tweeter.
The pics aren't mine, they are from up post... but they are great and mine came out just as clean. Thanks for the reply, I kept the cap connected as original to the female wiring harness, so I should be good since the signal wire from the amp passes through the cap before feeding the speaker. If anyone else thinks I'm missing something, please let me know.
06-03-2020, 06:15 PM
