Can't get anything to fit the four nuts that attach Turbo to cat on standard exhaust. Looking to remove it to fit 200 cel Kline system.

11mm flats seem to go on but ring side wont fit at all" Cleaned threads etc with wire brush soak in penetrating fluid for a week but can't get anything to go on, 12mm too big and 11mm too small.

Anyone done this on a turbo? Any advice most welcome, snookered at the moment. :sad:

Rob

 

Is the problem getting the access for the spanner to go onto the nuts, or are you saying the nuts won't physically accept the ring spanners? I wouldn't use an open ended spanner to loosen the nuts or there is a big chance they will damage and then you will another problem. What parts have you removed so far to gain proper access to those 4 nuts?

 

Hi Speed,

Thanks for the reply. I have pulled the rear apron, removed the bumper and all the heatshielding and intercoolers full access to everything, The nuts and bolts on the original system have been sprayed with penetrating fluid for past week.

The four nuts coming off the Turbo into O/E cat are impossible from what I can see. 11mm too small 12mm too big,. I can fit the flats of an 11mm on by force but even my high quality spanners are flexing at the jaws. I need the circumferential action of a ring spanner but can't get anything on. Someone suggested trying imperial sizes but I can only imagine Porsche using metric fixings. Looks like everything is distorted, must be the heat etc.

R.

 

Hmm. OK. That's odd. Unless these nuts have been off before at one stage they should be of metric size. Distortion or growth doesn't generally occur on a nut but what could have happened is a build up of dust over time that has baked onto the nuts making them a little too large for those spanners. I'd attack the outer nut by putting the ring spanner on and tapping it on with a hammer to see if it will get on that way. If not then you need to get an imperial sized spanner. No matter what you use, make sure it is a snug fit. These nuts will be tight. Best to have both on hand along with a die nut for that thread size so you can run it over the thread if you are fortunate enough to get the nut off. The factory nuts have a slight pattern at the end indicating they are a lock on type. If they have that then you know they are stock.

 

delete. duplicate post... dont know why it does that?

 

I'll try and post a couple of pics. Looked like it was the first time the likes of the I/C's were of etc. I would say it's as factory which could be half the problem. Do you remember what size they were or probs these nuts created when you fitted your E/P?

 

For any first timer, doing an exhaust change on one of these cars can be a daunting experience.

It pays to have a second set of hands, (preferably a hoist but not essential) and the right tools on hand including a Craftsmans wrench with the correct sized socket ends, a die nut and stud remover....and also a thread tap to run through the turbo stud threads in the turbo housings. You need to clean these threads up properly before winding any new studs in or they will stick half way and then you'll have another problem. You'll definitely need a set of replacement nuts, studs, and, 2 flange gaskets for turbo to cat. The existing nuts will damage the existing stud threads on the way off (unavoidable) and the studs aren't alway easy to get out of the turbo housings without breaking. Thats why a die nut is good because if you have a stud that is at risk of breaking in the housing then best to leave it there and you are better off recovering the thread on the stud so the new nut goes on nicely....or as nice as possible. You'll have some nuts that are easy but usually there will always be at least one or two that are impossible and run the risk of snapping the stud.

I recall my first time and it was no picnic. My car only had @5000kms on the clock at that stage if i recall correctly so the nuts and studs should have all been relatively easy to remove......but not the case. There was some blood and sweat involved and i had a very experienced guy, and a really good car hoist with me. So it's one of those things that can go surprisingly easy or be a nightmare of difficulty. Maybe each car is different although that said my car was as clean as a whisker underneath at that time as well.

My first instal was a Tubi. There was a range of difficulties encountered on the removal of the OE system and again on instal of the Tubi because that system was not a good fit at all.

The EP on the other hand was an absolute dream run because it was just so precise in fitment plus it had all the special tools, nuts studs gaskets and so forth supplied....even though we were very well tooled up at that time due to the previous bad experience with that wretched Tubi.

Having that craftsmans wrench means you don't need to remove the IC's which can take some time to get back on right. This tool allows you to gain access to the upper right hand nuts on the turbo studs without the need to remove the IC's.

On refit pay extremely close attention to the hoses, especially the snap lock hoses into the I/C's and, the connections on the Y pipe end. It's easy to be left with a leak.

The other real hard part is the 02 sensors (4) 2 each side. Don't underestimate it. Make sure you release the plugs in the engine bay and carefully remove the cables out of the plastic retainer clips on the inside body of the bay. And don't even think of shortcutting this job by undoing them out of the cats in-situ by winding the cables and having them all coil up. These things require special care and must be fully undone from the engine bay end.

Good luck on the mission.

 

I guess I was lucky.. I did my exhaust a couple years ago with help form my tech buddy (he did all the work.) Mine was quite easy (relatively) and the fitment of the Techart was perfect.

The stock exhaust had been removed before.. Perhaps this is why my install went so smoothly.. Let us know how it goes Rob..

 

Yeah will do phillip. Think this is the first time my car has been opened up for sure and it's five years old with 13K on the clock so no surprise those normally resistant parts are being a little more reluctant than I anticipated.

It doesn't help my shiny new Kline system sitting there looking sharp! There's an old saying in the medical trade " if it can go wrong it will". I have been given a very high tech penetrating fluid from a friend that runs his own garage.

it's apparently as effective as the "hot spanner"! we shall see this weekend.

Regards

Robert.

 

Just use a 13mm shorty w ratchet action. I've done it dozens of times, literally, never had a problem and never even took the bumper off. The short 13mm hand wrench is key, strongly suggest craftsman, the snapon is slightly too big.

 

Your bang on Chris, snap on 13mm slightly big. The nuts had all rounded slightly so I ended up grinding them off and replacing them, studs and all. Plenty of copaslip on this time, new cats slightly different shape so hopefully that's the last of these problems. I agree, it would be very easy to change out again now I've done it once.

Rob.

 

The trick is don't use lock nuts. Just use a spring washer and regular nuts.....just in case you want to take it off at one stage..

 

You can't beat experience! If I have realised that I would not have used lock nuts and guess what, they have to come off again already because as you have correctly pointed out in the other thread I was pretty pleased with myself last night until I went to fit the I/C's and noticed the turbo heatshields lying on the bench. I get all exited jumping from job to job - doesn't matter what it is, if I pick it up first I'm in there trying to bolt it on! lol!

R.