Driver's side window problem
Thread Starter
Rennlist Member
Joined: Oct 2005
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Driver's side window problem
When I pull the INTERIOR latch to open the driver side door, the window doesn't go down that little bit until the door has been opened/unlatched. If I open the door from the exterior, however, the window travels down that little bit like it is supposed to do before the door is opened. The passenger side window and door operate normally.
Any ideas as to what is going on? Is it an easy fix?
Thanks.
Any ideas as to what is going on? Is it an easy fix?
Thanks.
Newbies Hospitality Director
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Lifetime Rennlist
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Joined: Apr 2005
Posts: 18,084
Likes: 43
From: Winston-Salem, NC
It could be the micro switch or maybe the window needs to be "retrained." I had this happen on my 996 one day and retrained the window and had no recurring issues with it for the next 18 months I owned the car.
Lower the window as usual, but continue depressing the window button for 5 to 7 seconds after the window has been completely lowered. Then raise the window but continue depressing the window button for 5 to 7 seconds after the window has been completely closed. See if that resets the window. If not, try the above procedure a second time.
If that does not solve the problem, off to the dealer.
Lower the window as usual, but continue depressing the window button for 5 to 7 seconds after the window has been completely lowered. Then raise the window but continue depressing the window button for 5 to 7 seconds after the window has been completely closed. See if that resets the window. If not, try the above procedure a second time.
If that does not solve the problem, off to the dealer.
Intermediate
Joined: Nov 2014
Posts: 36
Likes: 3
The whole latch, bummer. I figured I'll have to remove the door panel and was hoping it might just be the sensor. $35 on Pelican. Might still give that a try and if that doesn't do it probably latch replacement. My problem is getting in from the outside. I open the door, window drops down out of seal, but when I let go of the latch, the window goes back up. So then I can't close the door without pulling the inside or outside latch slightly to drop the window, then close the door. Tried the relearn procedure as well but hasn't fixed the problem.
Race Director
Joined: Sep 2006
Posts: 19,035
Likes: 269
From: Bentonville, AR
The whole latch, bummer. I figured I'll have to remove the door panel and was hoping it might just be the sensor. $35 on Pelican. Might still give that a try and if that doesn't do it probably latch replacement. My problem is getting in from the outside. I open the door, window drops down out of seal, but when I let go of the latch, the window goes back up. So then I can't close the door without pulling the inside or outside latch slightly to drop the window, then close the door. Tried the relearn procedure as well but hasn't fixed the problem.
If you pull either handle the window should drop a bit. If you do not pull the handle enough to open the door but instead release the handle the window should go up.
That is the door latch switch doing its job. It recognizes the door is still latched and signals the window up.
If you pull either handle the window should drop a bit. If you then go ahead and open the door the window should stay down. If it doesn't that is the door latch assembly. At least it was on my Boxster.
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Intermediate
Joined: Nov 2014
Posts: 36
Likes: 3
Thanks for the responses guys!
Its really strange though. Opening the door from the inside, window stays down so I can close the door. Open it from the outside, window comes back up and now I can't close the door. So not sure its the latch because if that was the problem, the window would improperly come back up after opening from the outside AND inside handle. So thinking it's either the outside door handle or the outside door handle switch. Or maybe the linkage between the outside door handle and latch. What do you think? Thanks again!
Its really strange though. Opening the door from the inside, window stays down so I can close the door. Open it from the outside, window comes back up and now I can't close the door. So not sure its the latch because if that was the problem, the window would improperly come back up after opening from the outside AND inside handle. So thinking it's either the outside door handle or the outside door handle switch. Or maybe the linkage between the outside door handle and latch. What do you think? Thanks again!
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Track Day
Joined: Jul 2013
Posts: 19
Likes: 0
From: Ann Arbor, MI
I had a similar problem a few weeks ago. I've kept my 997TT parked for several months, and opened the passenger door recently. The window dropped slightly when opened, which is normal. However, it wouldn't roll up the 1/2" or so when when door was closed. I opened and closed the door a few times and pulled on the latch on the inside, and eventually it automatically went back up when I shut the door. Seems to be the microswitch from what I've read in the forums. Does anyone have the part number?
Race Director
Joined: Sep 2006
Posts: 19,035
Likes: 269
From: Bentonville, AR
Thanks for the responses guys!
Its really strange though. Opening the door from the inside, window stays down so I can close the door. Open it from the outside, window comes back up and now I can't close the door. So not sure its the latch because if that was the problem, the window would improperly come back up after opening from the outside AND inside handle. So thinking it's either the outside door handle or the outside door handle switch. Or maybe the linkage between the outside door handle and latch. What do you think? Thanks again!
Its really strange though. Opening the door from the inside, window stays down so I can close the door. Open it from the outside, window comes back up and now I can't close the door. So not sure its the latch because if that was the problem, the window would improperly come back up after opening from the outside AND inside handle. So thinking it's either the outside door handle or the outside door handle switch. Or maybe the linkage between the outside door handle and latch. What do you think? Thanks again!
I typed "latch" when I meant to type "lock".
With the behavior you describe, the door *lock* assembly is at fault.
This is a pretty fancy piece of electro-mechanical hardware and as a result rather expensive. I think it cost me over $300 from the dealer and this was with a PCA discount.
If you have this taken care of the at the dealer -- like I did -- the tech will connect the Porsche diagnostics computer to the car and query the car's security system for error codes. In my car's case the tech was hoping to find the problem resided elsewhere, a switch, rather than the door lock assembly because of its cost, but the switches were fine, it was the door lock assembly.
Another symptom my car exhibited was the doors would lock on their own. I'd get into the car and notice the door lock LED glowing red. Since I never drive the car with the doors locked I unlocked the doors. Sometimes in a minute or two the doors wold lock again on their own. Yet another symptom was when I locked the car using the key fob button the car's horn would sound to signal something was unlatched like a trunk or door or even the center console. I suspected the center console lid switch was going bad but it proved to be due to the door lock assembly.
Intermediate
Joined: Nov 2014
Posts: 36
Likes: 3
I accidentally used the word latch when describing the handle and lock : )
Ok, so gonna order some parts and take the darn thing apart. Gonna buy a new micro switch for the outside door handle, and a door lock mechanism which also contains multiple switches that are not replaceable individually.
http://www.pelicanparts.com/cgi-bin/...2529%2520%2520
http://www.pelicanparts.com/cgi-bin/...0%20Left%2C%20
I found a great post on the 996 forum that breaks it down really well so quoted it below. Scenareo 2 applies to me so will replace the door lock mechanism like Macster suggested and the door handle microswitch since it's cheap and will have the panel off anyways. Weathers been pretty cold here so Ill post my results when I get to it : )
Ok, so gonna order some parts and take the darn thing apart. Gonna buy a new micro switch for the outside door handle, and a door lock mechanism which also contains multiple switches that are not replaceable individually.
http://www.pelicanparts.com/cgi-bin/...2529%2520%2520
http://www.pelicanparts.com/cgi-bin/...0%20Left%2C%20
I found a great post on the 996 forum that breaks it down really well so quoted it below. Scenareo 2 applies to me so will replace the door lock mechanism like Macster suggested and the door handle microswitch since it's cheap and will have the panel off anyways. Weathers been pretty cold here so Ill post my results when I get to it : )
I copy pasted this for you. Hope it helps.
It seems that there are more and more cases of these faults appearing, and as some of our cars are reaching 10-12 years old, it is hardly surprising. I've compiled this information from past personal experience on both of my 996s, reading about others on here and other forums, referring to the workshop manual and wiring diagrams, and applying some logic. Hopefully you might find it useful, and save some grief when troubleshooting.
DOOR MICROSWITCHES
There are seven microswitches in each door which control the alarm system.
Two are separate switches:
a] One on the outside door handle. This switch is used to sense that the handle is lifted.
b] One on the inside door handle, which has the same function.
When the car is unlocked and either handle is lifted, this signals the alarm control module (ACM) to lower the appropriate window by 10mm, and turn on the interior lights. As soon as the door opens, another switch inside the door lock (explained later) tells the ACM that the door is open, which holds the window down until the door is closed, when the window is raised, and the dimming timer on the interior lights is started. Once the car is locked, the outside handle switches are ignored by the ACM.
The remaining five switches are inside the door lock assembly:
c] One switch senses if the door is open or closed.
d] One senses that the key has been turned to the 'lock' position.
e] Another senses that the key has been turned to the 'unlock' position.
f] One senses that the door lock motor has reached the 'lock' position.
g] Another senses that the door lock motor has reached the 'unlock' position.
TYPICAL FAULTS
All these microswitches can be problematic, and it is common for one or more to fail at some time. These are some of the common failures and symptoms:
1) The door window won't drop when lifting a handle. This is usually the handle microswitch which has failed.
2) The window drops, but goes back up when the door opens, or when the handle is released. This can be the handle microswitch, or more likely the 'door open/closed microswitch' ( c ) has stuck. Because the system thinks the door is still closed, it sends the window back up.
3) Door window won't go up the last 10mm. This is likely to be the 'door open/closed microswitch' ( c ) stuck in the opposite sense to (2). The system thinks the door is still open, so won't allow the window to go back up. Note that in this case the door will still lock, but you may get a single-beep from the alarm horn.
4) Door will not lock with key. The 'key lock' microswitch (d) is broken. This is very rare, as this microswitch is hardly ever used – most times the car is locked by remote.
5) Door will not unlock with key. The 'key lock' microswitch (e) is broken. This is also very rare, for the same reason.
6) Door locks, and then immediately unlocks, usually accompanied by a double-beep from the alarm horn. This is the 'door locked' microswitch (f). The locking motor physically operates the door lock, but the microswitch to sense this has failed/stuck. The ACM promptly unlocks the car. In this case, the only way to lock the door is to use the emergency locking procedure. Turn the key in the door to the lock position and back three times in quick succession.
7) The door unlocks, but there is a beep from the alarm horn. This is the 'door unlocked' microswitch (g). Although the door is unlocked, the ACM has not recognised that. The alarm will not sound, as turning the key in the lock has deactivated it.
FIXES
The inside and outside handle microswitches are available separately, and are not too expensive. Although alternative equivalent switches may be available, the genuine Porsche switch comes with a connector and wiring, so it makes sense to use an original. Part Numbers:
Inside handle microswitch: 996.613.123.00 (Same both sides)
Outside handle microswitch: 996.613.125.00 (Left) / 996.613.126.00 (Right)
The door lock microswitches are not available separately. You have to buy the complete door lock assembly, at a cost of around $120. It has been known for people to repair the offending switch though. This is a picture of a typical failure of a 'door open/close' microswitch (courtesy of another RennTech member):
I didnt put this photo in as you already saw it on another posting..... It shows a broken switch unassembled in parts.
You can see that the plastic plunger has broken, jamming the switch lever inside. These switches are (apparently) made by Burgess, but as yet the source and part number is unknown. There are several other similar standard switches on the market for around $2, and people have stripped down the new switch and rebuilt the old one with the plunger from the new one.
OTHER SWITCHES IN THE ALARM SYSTEM
The other switches and contacts in the alarm system are to monitor the lid closures:
Front lid microswitch
Rear lid microswitch
Oddment compartment microswitch
Glove box microswitch
Radio contact (to detect radio theft)
An open compartment or switch failure will cause a single-beep of the alarm horn on locking. A system error will cause a double-beep.
Other elements of the system include an interior monitoring sensor (in the overhead lighting), an alarm readiness light (on the dashboard in the centre) and a central locking button (on the dashboard). Options are a tilt sensor (next to the battery or under the left hand seat) and an alarm siren (next to the the battery).
It seems that there are more and more cases of these faults appearing, and as some of our cars are reaching 10-12 years old, it is hardly surprising. I've compiled this information from past personal experience on both of my 996s, reading about others on here and other forums, referring to the workshop manual and wiring diagrams, and applying some logic. Hopefully you might find it useful, and save some grief when troubleshooting.
DOOR MICROSWITCHES
There are seven microswitches in each door which control the alarm system.
Two are separate switches:
a] One on the outside door handle. This switch is used to sense that the handle is lifted.
b] One on the inside door handle, which has the same function.
When the car is unlocked and either handle is lifted, this signals the alarm control module (ACM) to lower the appropriate window by 10mm, and turn on the interior lights. As soon as the door opens, another switch inside the door lock (explained later) tells the ACM that the door is open, which holds the window down until the door is closed, when the window is raised, and the dimming timer on the interior lights is started. Once the car is locked, the outside handle switches are ignored by the ACM.
The remaining five switches are inside the door lock assembly:
c] One switch senses if the door is open or closed.
d] One senses that the key has been turned to the 'lock' position.
e] Another senses that the key has been turned to the 'unlock' position.
f] One senses that the door lock motor has reached the 'lock' position.
g] Another senses that the door lock motor has reached the 'unlock' position.
TYPICAL FAULTS
All these microswitches can be problematic, and it is common for one or more to fail at some time. These are some of the common failures and symptoms:
1) The door window won't drop when lifting a handle. This is usually the handle microswitch which has failed.
2) The window drops, but goes back up when the door opens, or when the handle is released. This can be the handle microswitch, or more likely the 'door open/closed microswitch' ( c ) has stuck. Because the system thinks the door is still closed, it sends the window back up.
3) Door window won't go up the last 10mm. This is likely to be the 'door open/closed microswitch' ( c ) stuck in the opposite sense to (2). The system thinks the door is still open, so won't allow the window to go back up. Note that in this case the door will still lock, but you may get a single-beep from the alarm horn.
4) Door will not lock with key. The 'key lock' microswitch (d) is broken. This is very rare, as this microswitch is hardly ever used – most times the car is locked by remote.
5) Door will not unlock with key. The 'key lock' microswitch (e) is broken. This is also very rare, for the same reason.
6) Door locks, and then immediately unlocks, usually accompanied by a double-beep from the alarm horn. This is the 'door locked' microswitch (f). The locking motor physically operates the door lock, but the microswitch to sense this has failed/stuck. The ACM promptly unlocks the car. In this case, the only way to lock the door is to use the emergency locking procedure. Turn the key in the door to the lock position and back three times in quick succession.
7) The door unlocks, but there is a beep from the alarm horn. This is the 'door unlocked' microswitch (g). Although the door is unlocked, the ACM has not recognised that. The alarm will not sound, as turning the key in the lock has deactivated it.
FIXES
The inside and outside handle microswitches are available separately, and are not too expensive. Although alternative equivalent switches may be available, the genuine Porsche switch comes with a connector and wiring, so it makes sense to use an original. Part Numbers:
Inside handle microswitch: 996.613.123.00 (Same both sides)
Outside handle microswitch: 996.613.125.00 (Left) / 996.613.126.00 (Right)
The door lock microswitches are not available separately. You have to buy the complete door lock assembly, at a cost of around $120. It has been known for people to repair the offending switch though. This is a picture of a typical failure of a 'door open/close' microswitch (courtesy of another RennTech member):
I didnt put this photo in as you already saw it on another posting..... It shows a broken switch unassembled in parts.
You can see that the plastic plunger has broken, jamming the switch lever inside. These switches are (apparently) made by Burgess, but as yet the source and part number is unknown. There are several other similar standard switches on the market for around $2, and people have stripped down the new switch and rebuilt the old one with the plunger from the new one.
OTHER SWITCHES IN THE ALARM SYSTEM
The other switches and contacts in the alarm system are to monitor the lid closures:
Front lid microswitch
Rear lid microswitch
Oddment compartment microswitch
Glove box microswitch
Radio contact (to detect radio theft)
An open compartment or switch failure will cause a single-beep of the alarm horn on locking. A system error will cause a double-beep.
Other elements of the system include an interior monitoring sensor (in the overhead lighting), an alarm readiness light (on the dashboard in the centre) and a central locking button (on the dashboard). Options are a tilt sensor (next to the battery or under the left hand seat) and an alarm siren (next to the the battery).
Former Vendor
Joined: Dec 2017
Posts: 951
Likes: 196
From: Madison, WI
What update are you looking for? The above description is fairly thorough. I need a new driver lock mechanism for my .1 turbo. May attempt this myself. Works fine if engine is running or was just running. But if not, window raises back up right away as soon as outer latch is released. That issue is not described above and seems more like an ECU thing since it works fine “sometimes”.
Burning Brakes
Joined: Jun 2022
Posts: 974
Likes: 399
Thanks for the responses guys!
Its really strange though. Opening the door from the inside, window stays down so I can close the door. Open it from the outside, window comes back up and now I can't close the door. So not sure its the latch because if that was the problem, the window would improperly come back up after opening from the outside AND inside handle. So thinking it's either the outside door handle or the outside door handle switch. Or maybe the linkage between the outside door handle and latch. What do you think? Thanks again!
Its really strange though. Opening the door from the inside, window stays down so I can close the door. Open it from the outside, window comes back up and now I can't close the door. So not sure its the latch because if that was the problem, the window would improperly come back up after opening from the outside AND inside handle. So thinking it's either the outside door handle or the outside door handle switch. Or maybe the linkage between the outside door handle and latch. What do you think? Thanks again!
