Hard break-in
#1
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Join Date: Apr 2007
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Hard break-in
Heard from a friend about "Hard Break-in". Don't have the exact details but it goes something like this. First 20 miles, you red-line to each gear with 15min of cooling time in between. Drain all the oil and replace with NON-synthetic oil. Drive 500 miles and replace with synthetic oil.
As mentioned, it's not the exact protocol but it goes something like that.
Any ideas or comments?
As mentioned, it's not the exact protocol but it goes something like that.
Any ideas or comments?
#2
Yes, forget it. Just drive it, go easy for 100-200 miles (more for the brakes than anything) then drive it as you would normally. Only the US cars it seems comes with a break in guidance in the manual and rumor has it thats more oriented towards safety with owners new to rear engine cars vs. break in for the car itself
#3
Rennlist Member
13 miles from the factory in a '97 993 TT. Musta been some traffic ahead, because he is not quite at redline.
#6
Rennlist Member
The hard break-in method you're describing is actually for the piston ring seal. There is much debate on the subject. These engines are redlined at the factory after assembly, and I tend to use 100% of my throttle, so I would rather break-in my own engine the hard way. But I think good advice is actually to break it in like you're going to drive it.
I've heard that the oil change from synthetic to dyno should actually be done right away, prior to the break-in and then changed back to synthetic afterwards. Additionally, after redlining under full throttle, one key component of the equation is to decelerate using engine braking to allow sufficient vacuum to be created. This is supposed to allow any metal particles to be sucked out on the piston rings.
You're right about the cooling period. Make absolutely sure the engine is up to operating temperature before going 100% and make sure the engine doesn't get too hot between runs.
I've heard that the oil change from synthetic to dyno should actually be done right away, prior to the break-in and then changed back to synthetic afterwards. Additionally, after redlining under full throttle, one key component of the equation is to decelerate using engine braking to allow sufficient vacuum to be created. This is supposed to allow any metal particles to be sucked out on the piston rings.
You're right about the cooling period. Make absolutely sure the engine is up to operating temperature before going 100% and make sure the engine doesn't get too hot between runs.
#7
Rennlist Member
Nice capture of the correct...err, hard break-in concept. Should really be called Normal Break-in.
http://www.mototuneusa.com/break_in_secrets.htm
Rings don't expand to seat with the cylinder wall unless under pressure!!
Good luck!!
http://www.mototuneusa.com/break_in_secrets.htm
Rings don't expand to seat with the cylinder wall unless under pressure!!
Good luck!!
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#8
Originally Posted by gmoney99
Yes, forget it. Just drive it, go easy for 100-200 miles (more for the brakes than anything) then drive it as you would normally. Only the US cars it seems comes with a break in guidance in the manual and rumor has it thats more oriented towards safety with owners new to rear engine cars vs. break in for the car itself
Exactly. I have no idea why USA cars require a special breakin schedule? Are we that clueless? I have 1200 miles and this is how I broke it in: Please vary your rpm's, The first 200 miles limit your revs to 4500 rpm, after that I took it to redline a half dozen times (give or take) then did a quick oil change (optional).
#9
Rennlist Member
I was talking about break in with a PCA corner worker at the Boise ID Hill Climb. He had rebuilt about a dozen Porsche engines. He said when he is finished, he drives them 50 yards at walking pace to the end of the driveway out back of his shop. Back into the shop, check the oil, and go out and redline it on a hill climb. I was told 500 miles on my rebuild, and my son was driving, so it got redlined at 500. Runs strong, and I use a quart per 5K miles ever since.
#11
the car break-in thing always confused me. i have owned airplanes for about 20 years-anytime that i had a new airplane engine to deal with, full max power was absolutely necessay for the first 25 hours. low power settings are prohibited during that period of time, all in the name of good ring seating. what i can never figure out is why no redlining in cars for break in, while in aircraft break in, why is redlining necessary?