Nemesis07r

Hi rennlisters, currently in the market for a GT3. I'm looking for a clean, as close to stock as possible,

abcut973

Many options out there. You will have to be more precise on what you are looking for. GL

Nemesis07r

Seems like the other part of my post was omitted for some reason. Here is the rest of it:


1.) What are acceptable ranges and occurrences for the DME read outs?
2.) Any work (warranty or otherwise) I should make sure have been completed before purchasing?
3.) Is the ~10-15k difference worth it for the .2 over the .1?
4.) What is a realistic price I should expect to pay? (asking is 100-110 for .1, 115-130k for .2)
5.) Any additional info I should take into consideration?

All advice and answers are greatly appreciated. Thanks!



Hopefully this works out better.

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abcut973

1) Range 4 to 6 over revs are generally bad for the engine. But again it depends how long were the ignitions for and when did they occure.

2) known issues like cam actuators, coolant pipe or main seals leak should be checked for.

3) Drive both cars back to back to make your own judgement. But basically .2 has the bigger engine more prone to the cam issue if i'm not wrong. .2 also has the CL wheels which can be a pain if you swap wheels often meaning when you track the car.

4) price depends on mileage, options, cosmetic and mechanical condition. Each car is different. Bucket seats demand premium.

5) Don't rush on the first car you see. Do your homework and take your time. If you miss on an opportunity there will always be another car popping up .

GL

golfnutintib

sorry for using caps above... on top of the solid advice from Abcut973... just adding my 2 cents to each point... cheers and good luck with search

these are among the very very best driver's cars Porsche has made (or will ever make)...

Nemesis07r

Thank you everyone for your responses. I'm mainly purchasing this car as a collector's but I'll be driving it semi-regularly. Very few, if any track time, but spirited driving is a given. Thoughts on which (.1 vs .2) will retain/appreciate more in 10-15 yrs time? Also with the rumors that the new 991.2 GT3 will be a manual do you see the prices for these dipping a bit when it hits the secondary market?

Thanks for this reminder...definitely excited at the moment and quite impulsive.



Replied.

abcut973

Based on that info above you are looking to spend in the 120-130s range. That is what clean low mileage cars sell for on average.
.1 or .2 is really a personal choice i would say. Drive them both and see. I have no idea on appreciation but lately these cars have gone up. 10 years from now they might not be worth as much. Who knows? Lots of speculations with 991.2 and such. I don't have a crystal ball only time will tell. All I can say is enjoy the moment. Buy it when you can and you feel it is the right one for you. Don't worry about resale. It is just a car at the end of the day.

757driver

I was shopping for over 6 month and finally got a really nice 7.2 with 10k miles under CPO warranty. It's the color I wanted and close to all the options I wanted. The guys above are giving you good info, as they did for me. I only want to add a few things I discovered on my search.

1. Porsche won't CPO a car with over revs worse than stage 3. So for me personally 4 or above was a no go. In my opinion, there must be a reason for that. I preferred none, but ended up with a car showing 10 ignitions in range 1 only.

2. Having driven both the .1 and .2, they are both amazing cars. The .1 is a great value for money. The .2 is a little more refined and polished. It feels like a newer car to me. I actually slightly prefer the looks of the .1. I was new to high performance rear engine cars so the more compliant pasm in the .2 combined with the stability control made the .2 a bit more appropriate for me. I think the .2 is a slightly better car. The question is, is it worth 20-25 grand more. Tough call. The ability to get the CPO is what tipped the scale for me.

3. I didn't want the purchase of my dream car turning into a nightmare (I don't have the best luck) so I wanted the piece of mind of a CPO warranty. I did pay a premium for it though.

4. In my search, I was looking for stock cars with under 20k miles. Prices were in 95-105 range for the .1 and 125-135 range for a .2 with CPO warranty. These were near the nicest, little or not tracked cars on the market.

5. While I agree to take your time and find the right car. When you do find it, don't hesitate. Be ready to jump on it as these cars, especially the cleanest ones don't last long at all. I missed a couple by taking my time thinking about them.

Good luck!

Nemesis07r

Sorry for my ignorance, but what is the "pinned line" you're referring to?

Thoughts on this particular model?
http://www.switchcars.com/cars-for-sale/255/2010-porsche-911-gt3

abcut973

Pinned lines have to do with the coolant pipes. 2 methods to address them is to weld or pin them to prevent leak.

That one at switchcars is what we call a stripper. Meaning low to zero options usually spec-ed for track purpose. That particular one is nice though. Plus it has bucket seats which add a bit of value. You can call Doug at switchcars. He is a knowledgeable guy to talk to.

Nemesis07r

Ah I see, that's what I originally thought but wanted to make sure. Yes this car only has bucket seats as an option and that's not a problem. At the moment leaning towards a .2

TheSilverFox

Seems like a good deal to me

Perimeter

The coolant hose lines that connect to the engine do so using a double male ended "coupler" or "fitting" that is pressed into the engine orifice with an epoxy sealant. The hose attaches to the other end that sticks out. Under race track type driving the heat causes expansion and in rare cases these couplers will depart the engine orifice producing two effects
1) Coolant is quickly dispersed like a fire hose into all areas around that opening and onto the rear wheel(s)
2) the wheels lose grip as the coolant lubricates the contact patch and said race car spins uncontrollably.

I have read of two solutions;
1) weld the metal couplers to the engine block
or
2) secure the coupler by drilling holes into the engine and through that coupler then place a pin in that hole to secure the coupler to the engine.

Here is a video that gives you a general idea of what the fitting failure looks like (and other things too)

Youtube has some catastrophic crash videos too, but I only spent 2 mins searching



*** Whatever car you end up choosing be sure to go to a prospective purchase candidate and personally drive the car. There is a lot of focus on talking about the engine on the forum but don't forget that you want to test the shifting ability of the transmission too.

Nemesis07r

Thanks for the vid Perimeter.

Ran a few errands today and stopped by a local's shop to see both .1 and .2 in the metal. Must say, they have quite the presence in person...Loved it! I didn't have time for test drives but just chatted a bit about the cars. Buckets are very snug and the cars are lower than I expected.

What is everyone's thoughts on the 3.6 engine vs the 3.8? DFI vs non-DFI? History of both engines in regards to racing"?