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Need to replace ripped outer driveshaft boot in 2010 GT3
My GT3 has a ripped outer boot of the passenger side driveshaft assembly. Have ordered new boots and grease and clamps. Does anyone have the tightening torque values for the six torx bolts that bolt the inner CV joint to the transmission (100 ft-lbs?) I believe the nut at the outer end of the shaft assembly is about 350 ft-lbs?
The only damage is the boot had ripped and the installation of a new axle still needs to have the correct torque values. The new axle assembly also costs $900 whereas the boots (4) and grease and clamps costs
60 ft/lbs for the bolts at the flange on the transmission
340 ft/lbs for the center nut at the wheel carrier.
That outer joint is not serviceable. If it's lost a lot of grease and damage has started to happen the only thing you can do is fill with grease, replace boot and hope for the best.
If the car sees track time it's a wear item and probably best to replace.
Change the axle. The previous owner of my car did the same thing. A few months after I got the car, it stated to make a loud clicking sound because the joint in the axle started to bind, just do it right the first time and get it over with
I'd check miles and track time. If it's just a ripped boot and it happened recently have it replaced if low miles and low or no track time. If any significant miles or track time replace the axles. Broken axles are not pretty.
Well I'm having great difficulty removing the old axle. After loosening and removing the axle nut with a large breaker bar the shaft through the center of the hub refused to be persuaded out by tapping on the shaft with a piece of hardwood and sledge hammer. Does anyone know if the shaft needs to be pressed out of the wheel bearing in the 2010 GT3 with centerlock wheel hub system?
Well I finally replaced the boots and added fresh grease to the axle. The correct procedure is remove the circlip at the inner CV joint and tap /slide off the inner CV joint. This can be done without removing the whole axle from the wheel hub (i.e. disconnecting the outer shaft from the wheel assembly). I am fortunate enough to have a lift and there was sufficient clearance to remove the CV joint and boots. One also need access to an air driven impact wrench to remove the covers (grease caps) at both ends of the CV joint. Initially, I didn't note the orientation of the CV joint's face and reassembled the CV joint backwards and had to take it off (since there was no flex or play in the wrong orientation). If you look at the photo of the CV joint, there is a circumferential ring 1/5 of the way above the base that should lead the way onto the end of the axle shaft facing towards the wheel hub. Anyway when re-assembled correctly and reconnected onto the transmission flange there is the same flex and mobility as the other side.
I think he said he needed to replace the outer boot. Having just done this on my 89 G50 which has a very similar axle setup, you do not need to remove the axle, but access is tough without doing so. You do need to remove the inner CV joint, then you can slide both boots off, replace the outer, then put the inner boot on, assemble the inner CV, then clamp down that put, then put axle back on.
Were you able to take the axle off? As far as I know, that big nut is the only thing holding the axle in, you need to use liberal amounts of copper anti seize on the splines to keep it from seizing in the hub. You may have just needed more persuasion :-) I got lucky on my 89 after almost 30 years the axle slid right out.
Axle cant come out of hub without the other end first being removed from gearbox. There isn't enough play to just it out of the hub without removing the gearbox side
11-29-2015, 12:20 AM
Need to replace ripped outer driveshaft boot in 2010 GT3
