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I'd be curious to hear more high mile stories now given the age of these cars.
I swapped a 6-gt3 motor onto my 6-c2 last summer that had 84k miles and have been sitting in a wrecked car for 3-4 years, changed the oil and immediately put it on the track. Its doing just fine with 30+ track days this year.
75k miles on Farmers old track car that only gets driven on the racetrack. Just made it home from another great trip to the Nurburgring. These cars are amazing. Engine has to my knowledge never been opened and still feels pretty strong.
We change engine oil after 5-6 days and trans oil every year.
It all depends. Preventive maintenance is important as is usage. Adjusting maintenance based upon usage is also important. Doing a UOA periodically can help head off a disaster.
After 30K miles of mostly track usage, my heads needed to be reworked. Bearings, P & C's were fine. Timing chain a bit stretched but no problem.
Just hitting 148K miles on my 6GT3, bought it with 5,500 miles on it in 2006. Had the heads refreshed last year at 143K miles. Original clutch was still going strong when I dropped the engine. The drive train is pretty much bulletproof.
I'm only to 82K miles since purchase in 2010 with 11K miles. I have performed all the maintenance except suspension alignment during that time and I must reiterate what Marv said earlier today. "The drive train is pretty much bulletproof." One thing I find hard to believe is after about 30K miles, I could no longer rely on oil usage to tell me when to change the oil. Before 30K, it would use a liter of oil in about 3K to 4K miles, and I would change oil. Since then, I always change oil at 4K miles because it doesn't drop that far by then. Can rings take 30K miles to seat? Also, I haven't needed to adjust the clutch or shift linkage yet. Runs strong as ever and is really broken in for smooth shifting. Some of my shifts into third with cold fluid reminds me of the feel of a German Mauser bolt action chambering a round. My daily driver for 12 years. Get rid of the center muffler and the sound is addicting.
Forgot to mention any of my trips, like over the Rockies into Kansas to give my Mother 2 rides in the GT3 on her 94th and last birthday. She got into and out of that car with no problems and I got over 25mpg on the interstate, leaving it in 5th much of the way because RPMs are too low below 80 in 6th. Gotta keep em above the harmonics around 3K rpm. They love to run.
Also, the only part that has broken was a $40 internal driver door lever part that I replaced myself. Standard 997, not a door pull, I like my door storage compartments that make good armrests, not like the RS. I bought a set of PCCB pads 12 years ago because the track rats said they didn't last long. Well, the red hot friction at a race track at each corner with no time to cool, will burn material of any composition at high enough temperatures. About 75K miles, I flipped the pads on the front because the bottom was wearing about 3mm of the total 12mm, which was 1mm more than the top. The difference in wear on the rear was not enough to flip the pads at less than 3mm wear and I like to keep R&R of the bolts at a minimum. Basically, some time before 120K miles, I plan to use the extra set of pads. They were much cheaper 12 years ago, so it's all good.
Forgot to mention any of my trips, like over the Rockies into Kansas to give my Mother 2 rides in the GT3 on her 94th and last birthday. She got into and out of that car with no problems and I got over 25mpg on the interstate, leaving it in 5th much of the way because RPMs are too low below 80 in 6th. Gotta keep em above the harmonics around 3K rpm. They love to run.
Also, the only part that has broken was a $40 internal driver door lever part that I replaced myself. Standard 997, not a door pull, I like my door storage compartments that make good armrests, not like the RS. I bought a set of PCCB pads 12 years ago because the track rats said they didn't last long. Well, the red hot friction at a race track at each corner with no time to cool, will burn material of any composition at high enough temperatures. About 75K miles, I flipped the pads on the front because the bottom was wearing about 3mm of the total 12mm, which was 1mm more than the top. The difference in wear on the rear was not enough to flip the pads at less than 3mm wear and I like to keep R&R of the bolts at a minimum. Basically, some time before 120K miles, I plan to use the extra set of pads. They were much cheaper 12 years ago, so it's all good.
Wow! Your mom was something special!
I got my dad to ride my car when he was in his late 80s, but 94 is grand!
I have 42K miles on my 2007RS. No overrevs at all on last scan. Stone-ax reliable so far (knock on wood). I always change the oil at 3000 miles, and have it analyzed by Blackstone every other change. The most recent at 42K miles, showed much better than average results. I have changed the fuel and air filters, and accessory drive belt once or twice, and the spark plugs and coils once. Pulled the transmission when I regeared it, expecting to see a well-worn clutch, but at 30K+ miles, it looked hardly worn - still put in a brand new full clutch package - but it was unnecessary. No oil leaks, no oil usage, so far, so good. Tends to eat batteries, as I am on my third AGM battery, but I can live with that. Seat belt doesn't retract quite as good as it did, but again, small issue. I change out the brake fluid every couple of years, just to avoid any issues with the PCCB bits and pieces. Now if I can only get that damned airbag light to go out after coming on when I changed out the AGM battery recently!!
09-26-2022 | 09:33 AM
