bigmacsmallfries

Could you guys chime in for us that keep the car mostly on the street? Also, I can't locate the OEM sway bar settings front and rear, can someone post it up?

This was posted by TRAKCAR in another thread (hope you don't mind me copying and pasting here) .

Stock allignment settings in the manual are:
Front axle toe +0' +/- 2'
Rear axle toe +13' +/- 2'
Front axle camber -1.35' +/- 5'
Rear axle camber -1.45' +/- 5'

"We recommend using the standard settings when driving on the racing circuit"


Now, what are the stock settings for the front and rear sway bars? I know there's 5 settings for the front and 3 for the rear. I will edit this first post once I have the info for other forum members to have a quick guide when they use the search function.

Should we deviate at all from the OEM settings for road use?

Lastly, my car is lowered roughly 10mm front and rear compared to the OEM ride height and I was told if I wanted to bring the car back to factory camber specs, that I would be forced to increase the ride height. Any idea if it's possible to keep OEM camber but drop the car 10mm front and rear? I love the look combined with the GT3 cup lip as it looks like the car is only a couple inches off the ground .

Thanks again.

bigmacsmallfries

C'mon, no one? lol

ShakeNBake

do you really need sway bars on the street

If you are in the wet climate, then run them full soft. if you are Dry, it's difficult to say. On one hand you want the car to be safe, so running a little more understeer would not be bad, so run front a tad harder than a track setup. BUT, on the street you can really feel turn-in at low speed, with cold tires, so you want more front grip than normal, so I would run front loser than a race setup by one notch.

bigmacsmallfries

It's the OEM sway bars I'm talking about here. They come with the car. There's 5 settings for the front and 3 for the rear.

I need to know what the OEM setup is (are they the middle settings????), and then if anyone recommends deviating it from it. And I imagine going softer or leaving as is would be the best set-up. I know there's at least a couple dozen forum members here than have a good answer. Chime in please..

ShakeNBake

It's realy easy to change them. Run Fonts on middle, rears on second to most soft setting. Then drive and adjust based on what you want. Takes 10 minutes to adjust assuming you have two floor jacks.

bigmacsmallfries

Just picked up on the sarcasm... hehehe. I took a closer look at your avatar.

I'm assuming they're in the middle setting from the factory.

ShakeNBake

I'm not trying to be a *****, but if the factory will shovel complete BS to you. The alignment from the factory has a variance that could deliver a drivable car....or not.... to you. Just because they deliver it in a certain config has nothing to do with how it should be setup. Porsche will setup the car to minimize dead customers, which is to run some understeer on corner entry.

You can have a random bubble rapper say...run X and you're fine, or you can take some adivce from people who spend time with the car, or experiment for yourself. No sarcasm, just no filter.

993GT

I'd run stock height and alignment values with toe and camber set to lowest/'zero'd' FACTORY values if just cruising around(to save tires and improve static traction)...if driving 'hard', add some camber value if seeing outside tread wearing first. Adjust sways to personalize push/slide, and toe can be tweaked if you find turn-in, corner adjustment too twitchy or 'flat'

bigmacsmallfries

I hear you, the suspension is dialed in more for beginner to intermediate drivers to help recover from a mistake or loss of traction at the limit. To deviate from the stock set-up and align all the various suspension components to work together is very tricky. Unless I have actual numerical values I wouldn't have the expertise to come up with the best set-up for me. I think I would be arrogant to think I would improve upon the OEM set-up since I don't have the track expertise some of you guys have.

I've definitely seen how much variance the cars come from the factory --just reading that ride height thread it's clear no two cars are the same. lol

bigmacsmallfries

Thanks for the input!

What would need to happen to do the following?

1. How would twitchiness of the car be reduced going in a straight line? Or reduce the car from being unsettled with bigger bumps in the road?
2. How would the 'dead-on-centre' steering wheel feel be reduced?
3. I notice the car is definitely twitchy when adjusting my line through a corner. It feels like the car is constantly oversteering and understeering through the corner just by applying the gas or brake. What is it that I'm feeling? Is this the pendulum effect of the engine in the back that becomes exaggerated? It sure does feel like the car deviates from under to oversteer with a moderate input of the throttle that front engined cars just don't exhibit.

I feel this is part of the car that is rewarding because the car is constantly telling you how bad of a driver you are, but you get it right and the car's weight shifts beautifully and it feels great.

993GT

without knowing what your current setting is(please get/post where you are 'at' now):
1. add toe-in to reduce twitchiness, big camber also creates this effect... ride height may be your actual issue-sounds like bump steer...
2.need current alignment specs...ride height/bump, caster, camber, toe all play effect here
3. proper driver's car...but IMO could also be toe related or bad/dramatic sway settings...or a worn out LSD!

Ur20v

^^^ N#3

Proper drivers car= responsive to throttle, steering and brakes i.e you can steer with any or all of them!

Stable/rock solid car= BMW/Mec etc Nannies and supple suspension and dead to drivers gentle/small inputs

bigmacsmallfries

I'll post up my current specs which don't deviate from OEM specs too much when I get my alignment done. At least a week or two out from now.

bigmacsmallfries

OK,

So my front and rear camber and toe were too aggressive for street tires. Originally -2.75 degree camber all around. Moved that down to -2 front and rear. The toe in the front was 0.06 and the rear was 0.2. Changed that to OEM specs at 0 and .13 front and rear.

I must say the understeer/oversteer tendencies have been minimized and the car feels like it's on rails now over undulations while cornering. It was the toe that was creating the nervousness of the car in a straight lines when the roads were imperfect.

Car feels great, similar to OEM specs are the way to go for street driving. Learned a lot about how the car behaves as well which I would have never understood had I not done this to begin with. So great learning experience and no regrets.

sin911

Glad to hear everything was sorted out and you're happy. What did you end up with on the sway bar settings?

I run Front 1 from full Soft, Rear in Middle. This provides enough flexibility on the front to be more forgiving and a bit more bite, while reducing the body roll by tightening the rear and giving me more play/control.