ShakeNBake

I had trouble with Delvac. The symptoms were difficult shifts, sticky gears, sometimes grinding (though probably a function of the other two) at very high temps. I tried Miller's non LS 75w90 and the symptoms seemed to go away. Shop in town advised me away from Delvac for track use, he said it's not what the Cups run. I'm getting somewhat annoyed with the various conflicting recommendations.

mooty

matt is THE best.
i got some jewelry from him.....

dont you blip 3-2?

Spyerx

Interesting, not seen that (grinding) and we run in hot conditions in summer here too. Shops around here use delvac in the cups they support. Unsure if it's factory fill.... But all oil threads go this way - everyone has an opinion. I just go by what shop suggests and what Guard suggests (and change it often, its cheap)

Oh???

GTgears

Here is an excellent gear oil thread that discusses Delvac vs PTX:
https://rennlist.com/forums/993-foru...for-993-a.html
The short answer for those who don't want to read it all? I recommend Delvac for a car that is more track than street. I recommend factory fill for a car that is more street than track. The difference is the friction modifiers added to the factory fill to assist the steel synchros in smoothness when cold.

Whenever I read about someone complaining that they are having balky shifting on track when the gearbox is cold, my immediate response is,"You obviously aren't warming up your gearbox enough before flogging it!" It takes roughly 20 minutes of track time to get a gearbox up to full temp. You want it at or above 180 degrees before you really get on it. Yes, we all want to maximum our track laps. But do your gearbox a favour and run 4-5 laps at 80% before you really get on it, regardless of gear oil choice. Your pocket book will thank you when you don't prematurely wear out your synchros.

Swepco? 201 and 210, yes. 203 and 212 no. The moly makes them too slippery. 3R would run nothing but 210 in their old World Challenge Cups.

Amsoil is fine. Just as you see mentioned in the thread linked, I don't like LSD additives. Again, too slippery.

Regards,

Matt

ps. I'll let Mooty post pictures of his "jewelry". We redesigned the GT2 Pro LSD and he's got one of the first production models to be sold to a private user.

ngng

i do but it still grinds from time to time. i'm going to try to get the car slowed down some more before dropping it into 2nd. when i double clutch, it's fine...not sure if it's related to syncros or it's just slowingeverything down

Sweeper

Thanks Matt,

I have been using Swepco 201 in my Formula Ford's Hewland for years, and now I use it in all my standard transmissions. It's great in Porsche trans. as long as it is warmed up first, very hard shifting while cold, Situation normal I'd say. Smooth as glass shifting when hot..

Larry Cable

its both, they are I believe interrelated...

ShakeNBake

Bill Rader set me straight on Delvac, he said it's the way to go. I must have slowed things down and not really noticed when I switched to Millers - thinking it was the oil that helped.

turbofever

if you park your cars outside in the winter the delvac can feel like sludge in your transmisison

once warmed up you are good to go though!

Izzone

Or learn to double clutch...then it goes in like butter

Agree on delvac....and change it after every event...overkill maybe....oil is cheap...tranny parts are expensive

GTgears

When I speak of heel toe blipping I am always talking about double clutching. Sorry if that wasn't clear. Blipping with the clutch pedal to the floor is basically useless.

Speeds5

When I heel toe, I go with one motion from 3rd to 2nd while breaking and blipping the throttle to rev match the lower gear. When you speak of double clutching, are you going to neutral first, then release the clutch, press it again when going to the lower gear while blipping the throttle? Seems like a lot of action. Is it that much difference to the synchros?

Terry L

Interesting. I came to Porsches from English sports cars where double clutching was de rigueur. My first Porsche DE instructor told me (14 years ago!) that it was unnecessary and a waste of time and haven 't since, except when I began to have shifting problems. Do you think that we ought to go back to trying to teach double clutching to DE students?

RedRSA

Matt, you have also had very good reports on Millers, as well, correct? Both in Europe and here in the states I believe. I was under the impression that Delvac is recommended/sufficient, but that while very expensive the Millers was even better.

Appreciate your advice on gradually warming up the gearbox, but most of our sessions are only 20-25 minutes long. Good advice, but. 20 minutes of warmup for 1-2 laps at full speed requires superhuman restraint! ;-)

Who is Bill Rader (no offense, just never heard the name)? Please share what you learned from him regarding gear lube, thank you.

Spyerx

One of the (if not the?) highly regarded porsche transmission shops:

http://www.billradermotorsports.net/about.html