ngng

The frog is ridiculous, especially when I tried to take the Miata line . I'm really happy with how the car is set up right now, but will make a few more small changes like sway bars and a more aggressive alignment down the road. As a driver, I've been working on keeping my eyes up and smoothing out my transitions from brake to throttle, and vice versa.

Only a few things I'm unhappy with:
- Still get the occasional grind on my 3-2 downshift, even with my Numeric set to something a little less aggressive. Such horrible sounds :/
- Need more, stickier tires...running 235 and 305 Hankook RS3s. Good tires for the street, but not sticky enough for me on track. ABS would kick in almost immediately after high speed braking: T1, T5, T9, T10, T14 (I think this is also contributing to my brake fade)
- Gas pedal position is too low and makes it difficulty to heel toe consistently. I have some SRP pedals that I am planning on installing, any idea if this will solve my problem?

Best lap:

Spyerx

Car seemed a bit tail happy at not so aggressive speeds. Tires or setup? You're on adjustable dampers right?


Take your time and don't rush the shift. Synchros could be going, it's not unheard of. Cup car steel synchros seem to fix this. My car is good on downshifts. It's high lateral 2-3 shifts that sometimes get balky when car is hot. Have to take my time and it's fine.

Seemed like you were braking really early on front and back straights. Or sort of easing into the corners and coasting. Was this confidence in the braking? Put some Nitto on that thing. Surprised you are getting fade. Fluid? Pads? I've come off with my brakes smoking but no fade.

It should, did you get the extender? I have the rennline setup and I am much better at H/T now with it.

mooty

i already told him to call my nitto warehouse ;-0

ngng

The problem only ever manifests itself on track. Sharkwerks took a look at it when they were doing my coolant lines and everything checked out. I'll try to slow it down next time and see if it helps.


Yeah, I'm braking REALLY early. Trying to brake late ABS would lock up and I'd get progressively worse brakes through the session. Running Stoptech 660 fluid (fresh before the event, and flushed it for the second day). Pads are the Stoptech 34 compound. Running the Stoptech Trophy kit in front and rear.

By extender, do you mean the side piece? If, so, yes.

ngng

needed wheels first...



now I have them. picked up the ccw cw10s. 18" please.do you like the nittos over r888?

usctrojanGT3

Nittos > R888

For my RS, I ran NT01s front and the shaved RA1s in the rear. I think I'll have one full set left after COTA so I'll either sell those or put them on the E88s and drive them on the street.

mooty

r888 is for swings you hang off tree so kids can play. it was not designed to be used on cars.

smart man.

oh ngng if you need more wheels, trojan is selling his.

ngng

DONT NEED MORE ANYTHING!! all of you are a bad influence. mooty, got your pm. will reply in a few.

usctrojanGT3

Forgelines are going up for sale in the next few weeks, it'll be much tougher to make me part with my gold E88s though.

mooty

have you heard... "resistance is futile...."

i am sure gold 88 stays.

Larry Cable

I agree on the synchro wear issue, I might be tempted to flush the transmission oil and replace (redline?) to see if this helps (once its at temp), if not my bet is this will take a set of cup (steel) synchros to resolve (might as well do an LWFW and new LSD while the tranny is out)

24Chromium

A lightweight flywheel looses inertia very quickly, so give it a good blip.

NorthVan

I agree 100%, this happened to me when I first got my car. Swapped to the Motorsports stuff and it is all good now

ngng

Trans fluid flush is simple enough, I'll do that first. Any idea what the avg cost of a trans rebuild is? Already have the 4.0 LWFW

LSD needs to be replaced for sure, I'm going to throw her on the lift and send the diff to get rebuilt. Need to find some shop time though, lots of people using it lately!

Spyerx

Welcome to the sinkhole.

I've a set of fikse what would look pimp on that green RS. I've not run r888. Everyone (not just here, but everyone) I have talked to has said they go off really fast. NT01 is way better. Those old RA1 rears, they work nice, surprisingly good for their age. Little more rotation than NT01 but wear good and are CHEAP!!!! I have 1.5 sets left... then off to the nittos collecting dust in my garage.

Tranny... if you have to ask.... if all it is is synchos it'll be mostly labor as those parts aren't very expensive. But then there is all the 'while in there' stuff. If your diff is original, its gone. Get that done. Guard clubsport or pro are sweet. Or just do a rebuild with their ramps.

On the fluid, drain and fill with Delvac. Seems to stand up to track temps better. It's what factory uses on cup cars too.

Who did your alignment? TCD? I would tell Tony what you felt in the car and have him adjust. There are too many variables here :-) but first step is tires and ensure diff is good.

What do the fast guys run with this config? I barely broke 2:10 but it was my first time on that track and I'm a really slow learner.