997.1 GT3 HPDE Prep/Mods
03-11-2015, 11:32 PM
#76
Rennlist Member
03-14-2015, 02:49 AM
#77
Instructor
Join Date: Jan 2014
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Minimum budget for HPDE prep?
Planning to attend 2-3 HPDE's this year in my stock 2007 GT3. It appears the general consensus is that pinning the coolant tubes is mandatory for track work. Estimated cost $3k+
My car has PCCB's. Should i replace them with steel rotors or will the PCCB's hold up to a couple track days a year and still be great for street use? How much parts and labor to convert?
Any other mods that are considered a must for limited track use?
My car has PCCB's. Should i replace them with steel rotors or will the PCCB's hold up to a couple track days a year and still be great for street use? How much parts and labor to convert?
Any other mods that are considered a must for limited track use?
03-14-2015, 09:51 AM
#78
Three Wheelin'
My coolant pipes have been welded since jan 2013. Run water wetter instead of coolant if you track before they are pinned or welded.
I still have PCCBs on and rotors look great. Bought the car with 10.5k miles and now have 24K. Have replaced the pads once last year and have them inspected and flipped if tapered to maximize usage. The newer OEM pads from Porsche Motorsport seem to be more durable.
I've been told I'm not hard enough on the brakes though. Lol.
Have Yokohama neoadvan 08 tires in 19 on OEM wheels. Like the stiffer sidewalk over MPSS.
I still have PCCBs on and rotors look great. Bought the car with 10.5k miles and now have 24K. Have replaced the pads once last year and have them inspected and flipped if tapered to maximize usage. The newer OEM pads from Porsche Motorsport seem to be more durable.
I've been told I'm not hard enough on the brakes though. Lol.
Have Yokohama neoadvan 08 tires in 19 on OEM wheels. Like the stiffer sidewalk over MPSS.
03-14-2015, 10:57 AM
#79
Rennlist Member
Get it aligned. You may also try rear locking toe links. Oh and put good brake fluid in. That's sort of the min then it's downhill from there. For pipes, pin, weld, at a min remove coolant and run water with water wetter. If it gets cold where you are you can't do that.
Regarding brakes you should be fine. Just replace pads before they get to 50%. Or you can buy mvez steel rotors and my pads and swap before events. It's super easy to do takes maybe 2 hours.
Regarding brakes you should be fine. Just replace pads before they get to 50%. Or you can buy mvez steel rotors and my pads and swap before events. It's super easy to do takes maybe 2 hours.
Planning to attend 2-3 HPDE's this year in my stock 2007 GT3. It appears the general consensus is that pinning the coolant tubes is mandatory for track work. Estimated cost $3k+
My car has PCCB's. Should i replace them with steel rotors or will the PCCB's hold up to a couple track days a year and still be great for street use? How much parts and labor to convert?
Any other mods that are considered a must for limited track use?
My car has PCCB's. Should i replace them with steel rotors or will the PCCB's hold up to a couple track days a year and still be great for street use? How much parts and labor to convert?
Any other mods that are considered a must for limited track use?
03-30-2015, 12:48 PM
#81
Drifting
Thread Starter
Quick update. Ran the car this weekend at COTA and after settling on a decent tire pressure for the NT01's the car felt pretty good.
What are everyone's thoughts on the stock springs/shocks/bushings? I felt like it was a little slow to respond in the fast back and forth sections of the track (T3-T7 esses) like the springs and shocks couldn't quite keep up with the car. The steering response was a little bit sloppy and it felt like the car would take a little longer than I wanted to take a set on each change of direction.
My business partner's E92 M3 with AST shocks and monoball suspension bushings feels much more direct and quick to respond to quick change in direction.
Could it just be that the NT01's have too mushy of a sidewall to get the razor sharp steering response or do most serious track guys change to a stiffer spring and higher end shock?
Other than that car was solid, didn't get hot or anything. Was sometimes a bit vague to go from 2nd to 3rd but not terrible and I got slight ice mode once going into T12 on the bumpy surface.
What are everyone's thoughts on the stock springs/shocks/bushings? I felt like it was a little slow to respond in the fast back and forth sections of the track (T3-T7 esses) like the springs and shocks couldn't quite keep up with the car. The steering response was a little bit sloppy and it felt like the car would take a little longer than I wanted to take a set on each change of direction.
My business partner's E92 M3 with AST shocks and monoball suspension bushings feels much more direct and quick to respond to quick change in direction.
Could it just be that the NT01's have too mushy of a sidewall to get the razor sharp steering response or do most serious track guys change to a stiffer spring and higher end shock?
Other than that car was solid, didn't get hot or anything. Was sometimes a bit vague to go from 2nd to 3rd but not terrible and I got slight ice mode once going into T12 on the bumpy surface.
03-30-2015, 01:38 PM
#82
Drifting
Quick update. Ran the car this weekend at COTA and after settling on a decent tire pressure for the NT01's the car felt pretty good.
What are everyone's thoughts on the stock springs/shocks/bushings? I felt like it was a little slow to respond in the fast back and forth sections of the track (T3-T7 esses) like the springs and shocks couldn't quite keep up with the car. The steering response was a little bit sloppy and it felt like the car would take a little longer than I wanted to take a set on each change of direction.
My business partner's E92 M3 with AST shocks and monoball suspension bushings feels much more direct and quick to respond to quick change in direction.
Could it just be that the NT01's have too mushy of a sidewall to get the razor sharp steering response or do most serious track guys change to a stiffer spring and higher end shock?
Other than that car was solid, didn't get hot or anything. Was sometimes a bit vague to go from 2nd to 3rd but not terrible and I got slight ice mode once going into T12 on the bumpy surface.
What are everyone's thoughts on the stock springs/shocks/bushings? I felt like it was a little slow to respond in the fast back and forth sections of the track (T3-T7 esses) like the springs and shocks couldn't quite keep up with the car. The steering response was a little bit sloppy and it felt like the car would take a little longer than I wanted to take a set on each change of direction.
My business partner's E92 M3 with AST shocks and monoball suspension bushings feels much more direct and quick to respond to quick change in direction.
Could it just be that the NT01's have too mushy of a sidewall to get the razor sharp steering response or do most serious track guys change to a stiffer spring and higher end shock?
Other than that car was solid, didn't get hot or anything. Was sometimes a bit vague to go from 2nd to 3rd but not terrible and I got slight ice mode once going into T12 on the bumpy surface.
03-30-2015, 02:03 PM
#83
Rennlist Member
What are everyone's thoughts on the stock springs/shocks/bushings? I felt like it was a little slow to respond in the fast back and forth sections of the track (T3-T7 esses) like the springs and shocks couldn't quite keep up with the car. The steering response was a little bit sloppy and it felt like the car would take a little longer than I wanted to take a set on each change of direction.
The .1 cars dampers are not as good as .2. Can benefit from a better damper plus higher spring rates, especially if your car is mostly track use.
It's a slippery slope though. If you want to slop, it's mono ball everything, dampers, proper setup and alignment.
Could it just be that the NT01's have too mushy of a sidewall to get the razor sharp steering response or do most serious track guys change to a stiffer spring and higher end shock?
Code:
Other than that car was solid, didn't get hot or anything. Was sometimes a bit vague to go from 2nd to 3rd but not terrible and I got slight ice mode once going into T12 on the bumpy surface.
You probably didn't get ice mode, you probably got the abs 'limit' thing. Ice mode will scare the crap out of you. To avoid ice, and the 1g 'limit' on ABS, EASE into the pedal, do not jab it. This can make very late braking hard to do with sticky tires. Practice this, get on pedal, then very fast very firm pressure, not a jab motion, car will stop FAST. Jab the brake and who knows depending on the surface.
03-30-2015, 02:29 PM
#84
The NT01 once warmed up aren't mushy (to me). They can be when new especially, or cold with low pressures.
The .1 cars dampers are not as good as .2. Can benefit from a better damper plus higher spring rates, especially if your car is mostly track use.
It's a slippery slope though. If you want to slop, it's mono ball everything, dampers, proper setup and alignment.
Many do, especially with the .1 cars.
Don't rush 2-3, it's a known weak point especially during hard transitions. Tranny and engine mounts can help.
You probably didn't get ice mode, you probably got the abs 'limit' thing. Ice mode will scare the crap out of you. To avoid ice, and the 1g 'limit' on ABS, EASE into the pedal, do not jab it. This can make very late braking hard to do with sticky tires. Practice this, get on pedal, then very fast very firm pressure, not a jab motion, car will stop FAST. Jab the brake and who knows depending on the surface.
The .1 cars dampers are not as good as .2. Can benefit from a better damper plus higher spring rates, especially if your car is mostly track use.
It's a slippery slope though. If you want to slop, it's mono ball everything, dampers, proper setup and alignment.
Many do, especially with the .1 cars.
Code:
Other than that car was solid, didn't get hot or anything. Was sometimes a bit vague to go from 2nd to 3rd but not terrible and I got slight ice mode once going into T12 on the bumpy surface.
You probably didn't get ice mode, you probably got the abs 'limit' thing. Ice mode will scare the crap out of you. To avoid ice, and the 1g 'limit' on ABS, EASE into the pedal, do not jab it. This can make very late braking hard to do with sticky tires. Practice this, get on pedal, then very fast very firm pressure, not a jab motion, car will stop FAST. Jab the brake and who knows depending on the surface.
If you're going to go for it with suspension, get strapped in and be prepared for the ride, cuz you're just a passenger on that slippery slope.
04-01-2015, 08:33 PM
#85
Drifting
Thread Starter
The NT01 once warmed up aren't mushy (to me). They can be when new especially, or cold with low pressures.
The .1 cars dampers are not as good as .2. Can benefit from a better damper plus higher spring rates, especially if your car is mostly track use.
It's a slippery slope though. If you want to slop, it's mono ball everything, dampers, proper setup and alignment.
Many do, especially with the .1 cars.
Don't rush 2-3, it's a known weak point especially during hard transitions. Tranny and engine mounts can help.
You probably didn't get ice mode, you probably got the abs 'limit' thing. Ice mode will scare the crap out of you. To avoid ice, and the 1g 'limit' on ABS, EASE into the pedal, do not jab it. This can make very late braking hard to do with sticky tires. Practice this, get on pedal, then very fast very firm pressure, not a jab motion, car will stop FAST. Jab the brake and who knows depending on the surface.
The .1 cars dampers are not as good as .2. Can benefit from a better damper plus higher spring rates, especially if your car is mostly track use.
It's a slippery slope though. If you want to slop, it's mono ball everything, dampers, proper setup and alignment.
Many do, especially with the .1 cars.
Code:
Other than that car was solid, didn't get hot or anything. Was sometimes a bit vague to go from 2nd to 3rd but not terrible and I got slight ice mode once going into T12 on the bumpy surface.
You probably didn't get ice mode, you probably got the abs 'limit' thing. Ice mode will scare the crap out of you. To avoid ice, and the 1g 'limit' on ABS, EASE into the pedal, do not jab it. This can make very late braking hard to do with sticky tires. Practice this, get on pedal, then very fast very firm pressure, not a jab motion, car will stop FAST. Jab the brake and who knows depending on the surface.
I don't power shift, and it didn't have any trouble it just wasn't as butter smooth as it could be, a little vague.
The only braking "ice mode" things were under bumpy conditions and only once or twice. My Elise has a similar issue, the ABS didn't like bumpy surfaces. Easing into the brakes does help a bit.
04-04-2015, 02:07 PM
#86
Having driven a variety of cars on track... Monoball suspension joints makes a big difference.... The diff between sports car and race car "feel"!