DIY - oil level sender / sensor - fixed>>
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dak996 (08-02-2023)
05-27-2021, 07:07 PM
#17
Rennlist Member
I just installed one that failed as well, but I'm still getting the same error. Did you need to clear the code in the computer? Maybe the part is DOA. Anyone know what continuity is should have?
The following users liked this post:
dak996 (08-02-2023)
05-28-2021, 02:38 AM
#18
Rennlist Member
Nice thread 
I must check my oil at least 10 times when I drive
After warm up, at the first intersection, and then quite a few more times. Maybe not 10, but by the time I'm back in the garage I do one more check before turning the car off-so the day I notice something, I'll be replacing mine.
I'm up for an oil change soon-I've done everyone change since I've owned the car, and now that I have Piwis I'll do the oil level check and compare to the onboard check. I've seen posts saying the % through Piwis can differ from the onboard level. But, I always add the 9.5 quarts and have no issues.
Thanks for the detailed DIY
I must check my oil at least 10 times when I drive
After warm up, at the first intersection, and then quite a few more times. Maybe not 10, but by the time I'm back in the garage I do one more check before turning the car off-so the day I notice something, I'll be replacing mine.
I'm up for an oil change soon-I've done everyone change since I've owned the car, and now that I have Piwis I'll do the oil level check and compare to the onboard check. I've seen posts saying the % through Piwis can differ from the onboard level. But, I always add the 9.5 quarts and have no issues.
Thanks for the detailed DIY
05-28-2021, 08:12 AM
#19
Mine was fluctuating quite a bit so I had it replaced. $280 or so for the part. $500 in labor. Seems to be more accurate now. Thanks for the DIY. I probably could have attempted it, but car was already in for a fresh RMS and other work, so I figured I’d have them do it at the same time.
08-02-2023, 05:44 AM
#20
Intermediate
It wasn't fun, but it's done and the engine didn't have to come out.
#15 in the image below.
You'll need:
+ oil level transmitter - PRT# 99660614000 (~ $80 at the time of purchase)
+ 10mm socket or wrench
+ 8mm socket or wrench
+ skinny arms and a good back
Open the engine compartment. That's it with the wires plugged into it - way the hell back there.
Start by unscrewing the bracket that holds the oil filler. Unscrew this nut - 10mm.
Unscrew two more bolts - 8mm. Shown below is the lower bolt. I couldn't get a good picture of the upper bolt, but it's there under the 10mm nut.
Unplug the MAF connector.
Pull up and slip off this solenoid that is connected to the bracket you're removing.
Pull the bracket out.
Now there's a little more room. This is the tricky part. Unscrew the bolts holding the oil filler and oil sender in place. There are two 8mm bolts (#28 and #24 in the diagram above). I used a small wrench and it took forever as there's not a lot of space. The oil filler and sensor will both come out at this point.
I disconnected the sensor from the connector and plugged the holes with a couple of towels.
Old on the bottom, new on top. #4 in the diagram needs to be removed from the old sensor and screwed on to the new one.
It was stubborn, so it got the rubber hammer.
Swapped.
New sensor in place.
Reinstall in the reverse order.
Went for a quick drive to heat the car up. With the engine running on a level surface I tested the oil level and found it to be a little low. This is the first time the sensor has displayed anything but empty or full. I put half a quart in and now it's in range. Hope this helps those that have erratic oil levels.
#15 in the image below.
You'll need:
+ oil level transmitter - PRT# 99660614000 (~ $80 at the time of purchase)
+ 10mm socket or wrench
+ 8mm socket or wrench
+ skinny arms and a good back
Open the engine compartment. That's it with the wires plugged into it - way the hell back there.
Start by unscrewing the bracket that holds the oil filler. Unscrew this nut - 10mm.
Unscrew two more bolts - 8mm. Shown below is the lower bolt. I couldn't get a good picture of the upper bolt, but it's there under the 10mm nut.
Unplug the MAF connector.
Pull up and slip off this solenoid that is connected to the bracket you're removing.
Pull the bracket out.
Now there's a little more room. This is the tricky part. Unscrew the bolts holding the oil filler and oil sender in place. There are two 8mm bolts (#28 and #24 in the diagram above). I used a small wrench and it took forever as there's not a lot of space. The oil filler and sensor will both come out at this point.
I disconnected the sensor from the connector and plugged the holes with a couple of towels.
Old on the bottom, new on top. #4 in the diagram needs to be removed from the old sensor and screwed on to the new one.
It was stubborn, so it got the rubber hammer.
Swapped.
New sensor in place.
Reinstall in the reverse order.
Went for a quick drive to heat the car up. With the engine running on a level surface I tested the oil level and found it to be a little low. This is the first time the sensor has displayed anything but empty or full. I put half a quart in and now it's in range. Hope this helps those that have erratic oil levels.