When purchasing a car, how do you factor in track miles into the wear of the GT3 RS?
#46
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Yea? Find a grey black GT3 RS without suspension modifications anywhere in Canada or within 500 miles of Buffalo so I can drive and not have to take a flight. There's one on porsche.ca, two on autotrader.com, and one on ebay.com (all with suspension mods except the ebay one). I foolishly decided to fly over to Chicago and see it after I placed a deposit only to find out the car had major electrical issues that could not be fixed even though they had the car in their possession for a few months and the original factory warranty was still intact. They did not disclose that to me. Not the first time either, placed a deposit on a GT2 in Montreal only to find out it had 15,000 stage 1 over revs when I got there (my fault, they just got the car in their possession and ran the DME report a couple days later). So let's just say this hasn't been a pleasant experience so far....
#47
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Yea, I'm discouraged that I haven't found one yet. I'm so tempted just to go get a 997.2 GT3 as there's a couple nice ones in Toronto but I refuse to give in. I want the RS. There's only one left in Quebec, and it's been heavily tracked --was not used on public roads, and is a current Rennlist member that kept the car in a trailer.
Last edited by bigmacsmallfries; 04-23-2014 at 01:33 AM.
#48
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Thanks for that tidbit. Would explain why I got a dme report for one car with 3000 miles and 35,000 type 1 ignitions, a second 8500 mile car with 15,000 type 1 ignitions, and then a highly modified track car (no expenses spared) with 141 type 1 ignitions but with 16,000 miles. That's when I feel the DME report is no longer valid, and can not trust the seller anymore. Each time the rev limiter is hit I'm guessing about 10 ignitions or so are registered. Any idea roughly anyone? That's
#49
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Why limit yourself to cars in a small radius? I looked nation wide for my car and it still took me 6 months to find the right one. I ended up finding mine across the country. I got a referral for a local shop here on RL. They did a thorough PPI and I bought it sight unseen. If you have to put eyes on it, an airfare buys a lot of comfort. Cost me another $1500 to ship back. I've bought 3 Porsches (2 used/1 new) this way and had excellent results.
#50
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None of this makes any sense to me. Never owned a Porsche, so first car must be GT3 RS. Worried about prior abuse, but buying used from a dealer w/ no ability to talk w/ PO. Buying a car to use for the street, but buying one that's been tracked extensively. Have to have the right car, but color and close to home are the driving factors. Finances not an issue, but buying used and worried about repair costs. What am I missing?
![Roll Eyes (Sarcastic)](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/smilies/rolleyes.gif)
#51
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^ lmao
#52
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10 ignitions would only be 3 revolutions. I hit the rev limiter in my 11 GTS with PDK and I think it showed around 15. A PDK equipped car in sport plus with manual engaged can register stage 1 hits.
#53
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that's why u buy the seller not the car.
I can chg ecu, and every bit of trk remnants that u will never know it's tracked. I usually look,at car, look at buyer, then I decide wire or not. compression leak down I don't really care.
#54
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None of this makes any sense to me. Never owned a Porsche, so first car must be GT3 RS. Worried about prior abuse, but buying used from a dealer w/ no ability to talk w/ PO. Buying a car to use for the street, but buying one that's been tracked extensively. Have to have the right car, but color and close to home are the driving factors. Finances not an issue, but buying used and worried about repair costs. What am I missing? ![Roll Eyes (Sarcastic)](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/smilies/rolleyes.gif)
![Roll Eyes (Sarcastic)](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/smilies/rolleyes.gif)
I don't want extensive track time not because of cost, but because the car begins to feels 'loose' and not 'tight' or crisp behind the wheel. Don't want to the interior to start squeaking either.
I'm a car enthusiast, and decided I want to get the car that I believe is the best driver's car out there. Can't fault me for that.
Anyways guys, I'm not here to share some petty 1st world problems. Just wanted to get a detailed answer of what to look out for. I decided 3 months ago I was going to go ahead with this purchase, everyone has to start somewhere...
#55
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#56
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Thanks for that tidbit. Would explain why I got a dme report for one car with 3000 miles and 35,000 type 1 ignitions, a second 8500 mile car with 15,000 type 1 ignitions, and then a highly modified track car (no expenses spared) with 141 type 1 ignitions but with 16,000 miles. That's when I feel the DME report is no longer valid, and can not trust the seller anymore.
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#57
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Over analyzing. Just looking for a grey black RS within a 10 hour drive from where I'm located that doesn't have extensive suspension mods or extensive track time.
I don't want extensive track time not because of cost, but because the car begins to feels 'loose' and not 'tight' or crisp behind the wheel. Don't want to the interior to start squeaking either.
I'm a car enthusiast, and decided I want to get the car that I believe is the best driver's car out there. Can't fault me for that.
Anyways guys, I'm not here to share some petty 1st world problems. Just wanted to get a detailed answer of what to look out for. I decided 3 months ago I was going to go ahead with this purchase, everyone has to start somewhere...
I don't want extensive track time not because of cost, but because the car begins to feels 'loose' and not 'tight' or crisp behind the wheel. Don't want to the interior to start squeaking either.
I'm a car enthusiast, and decided I want to get the car that I believe is the best driver's car out there. Can't fault me for that.
Anyways guys, I'm not here to share some petty 1st world problems. Just wanted to get a detailed answer of what to look out for. I decided 3 months ago I was going to go ahead with this purchase, everyone has to start somewhere...
If you want to get back to a tight feeling (which shouldn't be an issue with the very stiff bushings on the GT3, but if quels your psychosis..) it's a simple matter of replacing all the bushings and replacing shocks.
Honestly, the RS is a pretty terrible street car at legal speeds. Up there with an Ariel Atom.
#58
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None of this makes any sense to me. Never owned a Porsche, so first car must be GT3 RS. Worried about prior abuse, but buying used from a dealer w/ no ability to talk w/ PO. Buying a car to use for the street, but buying one that's been tracked extensively. Have to have the right car, but color and close to home are the driving factors. Finances not an issue, but buying used and worried about repair costs. What am I missing? ![Roll Eyes (Sarcastic)](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/smilies/rolleyes.gif)
![Roll Eyes (Sarcastic)](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/smilies/rolleyes.gif)
Other than mentally feeling better about it, can you explain to us why having range 1 over revs is bad for the car?
OP, your only play here to satisfy your needs is to buy a bubble wrapped RS, which will cost you a significant amount more.
#59
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A Ferrari CA is makes a very nice tight drive with the right noise, nothing loose except your hair or whats left of it..and if ever tracked, that may be because the previous owner got lost...
with current prices of an RS you do better in a F car....Good luck
with current prices of an RS you do better in a F car....Good luck
#60
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Over analyzing. Just looking for a grey black RS within a 10 hour drive from where I'm located that doesn't have extensive suspension mods or extensive track time.
I don't want extensive track time not because of cost, but because the car begins to feels 'loose' and not 'tight' or crisp behind the wheel. Don't want to the interior to start squeaking either.
I'm a car enthusiast, and decided I want to get the car that I believe is the best driver's car out there. Can't fault me for that.
Anyways guys, I'm not here to share some petty 1st world problems. Just wanted to get a detailed answer of what to look out for. I decided 3 months ago I was going to go ahead with this purchase, everyone has to start somewhere...
I don't want extensive track time not because of cost, but because the car begins to feels 'loose' and not 'tight' or crisp behind the wheel. Don't want to the interior to start squeaking either.
I'm a car enthusiast, and decided I want to get the car that I believe is the best driver's car out there. Can't fault me for that.
Anyways guys, I'm not here to share some petty 1st world problems. Just wanted to get a detailed answer of what to look out for. I decided 3 months ago I was going to go ahead with this purchase, everyone has to start somewhere...
Don't get me wrong, I'd probably buy one if finances were no object, but I have $10 (finances are no object!) that you'll sell the thing inside of 3 years.