Notices
997 GT2/GT3 Forum 2005-2012
Sponsored by:
Sponsored by: Porsche North Houston

When purchasing a car, how do you factor in track miles into the wear of the GT3 RS?

Thread Tools
 
Search this Thread
 
Old 04-23-2014, 12:36 AM
  #46  
bigmacsmallfries
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
 
bigmacsmallfries's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2014
Location: Canada
Posts: 402
Received 6 Likes on 5 Posts
Default

Originally Posted by mepps
if finances aren't an issue as you stated above....finding the "right one" would be a non-issue.
Yea? Find a grey black GT3 RS without suspension modifications anywhere in Canada or within 500 miles of Buffalo so I can drive and not have to take a flight. There's one on porsche.ca, two on autotrader.com, and one on ebay.com (all with suspension mods except the ebay one). I foolishly decided to fly over to Chicago and see it after I placed a deposit only to find out the car had major electrical issues that could not be fixed even though they had the car in their possession for a few months and the original factory warranty was still intact. They did not disclose that to me. Not the first time either, placed a deposit on a GT2 in Montreal only to find out it had 15,000 stage 1 over revs when I got there (my fault, they just got the car in their possession and ran the DME report a couple days later). So let's just say this hasn't been a pleasant experience so far....
Old 04-23-2014, 12:38 AM
  #47  
bigmacsmallfries
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
 
bigmacsmallfries's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2014
Location: Canada
Posts: 402
Received 6 Likes on 5 Posts
Default

Originally Posted by tcsracing1
Yup. The RS is pretty special. Might as well get it right the first time.
The Porsche dealer in Quebec has a couple. Given the exchange rate I would start there.
Yea, I'm discouraged that I haven't found one yet. I'm so tempted just to go get a 997.2 GT3 as there's a couple nice ones in Toronto but I refuse to give in. I want the RS. There's only one left in Quebec, and it's been heavily tracked --was not used on public roads, and is a current Rennlist member that kept the car in a trailer.

Last edited by bigmacsmallfries; 04-23-2014 at 01:33 AM.
Old 04-23-2014, 01:08 AM
  #48  
J. Kid
Rennlist Member
 
J. Kid's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2011
Location: Western New York
Posts: 277
Received 23 Likes on 14 Posts
Default

Originally Posted by bigmacsmallfries
Thanks for that tidbit. Would explain why I got a dme report for one car with 3000 miles and 35,000 type 1 ignitions, a second 8500 mile car with 15,000 type 1 ignitions, and then a highly modified track car (no expenses spared) with 141 type 1 ignitions but with 16,000 miles. That's when I feel the DME report is no longer valid, and can not trust the seller anymore. Each time the rev limiter is hit I'm guessing about 10 ignitions or so are registered. Any idea roughly anyone? That's
At 8,400 RPM redline you'd get 140 in one second. So the car with 141 type one ignitions likely had one bounce off limiter. Sounds like an extremely careful owner to me!
Old 04-23-2014, 01:22 AM
  #49  
ChrisF
Rennlist Member
 
ChrisF's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2005
Location: La La Land
Posts: 4,191
Received 990 Likes on 369 Posts
Default

Why limit yourself to cars in a small radius? I looked nation wide for my car and it still took me 6 months to find the right one. I ended up finding mine across the country. I got a referral for a local shop here on RL. They did a thorough PPI and I bought it sight unseen. If you have to put eyes on it, an airfare buys a lot of comfort. Cost me another $1500 to ship back. I've bought 3 Porsches (2 used/1 new) this way and had excellent results.
Old 04-23-2014, 01:34 AM
  #50  
Reddy Kilowatt
Rennlist Member
 
Reddy Kilowatt's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2008
Location: Out there
Posts: 1,155
Received 1 Like on 1 Post
Default

None of this makes any sense to me. Never owned a Porsche, so first car must be GT3 RS. Worried about prior abuse, but buying used from a dealer w/ no ability to talk w/ PO. Buying a car to use for the street, but buying one that's been tracked extensively. Have to have the right car, but color and close to home are the driving factors. Finances not an issue, but buying used and worried about repair costs. What am I missing?
Old 04-23-2014, 01:45 AM
  #51  
mooty
GT3 player par excellence
Lifetime Rennlist
Member
 
mooty's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2002
Location: san francisco
Posts: 43,426
Received 5,660 Likes on 2,327 Posts
Default

^ lmao
Old 04-23-2014, 01:51 AM
  #52  
Alan C.
Rennlist Member
 
Alan C.'s Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2001
Location: Ohio
Posts: 9,455
Received 1,042 Likes on 535 Posts
Default

10 ignitions would only be 3 revolutions. I hit the rev limiter in my 11 GTS with PDK and I think it showed around 15. A PDK equipped car in sport plus with manual engaged can register stage 1 hits.
Old 04-23-2014, 01:51 AM
  #53  
mooty
GT3 player par excellence
Lifetime Rennlist
Member
 
mooty's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2002
Location: san francisco
Posts: 43,426
Received 5,660 Likes on 2,327 Posts
Question

Originally Posted by bigmacsmallfries
Thanks, great advice. So the VIN matches the report that it spits out. Good to know. Read in another forum that there's software out there that can reset the over revs that people on the 'inside' know about. Just wanted to ask here and confirm what can be done.
yes can b reset
that's why u buy the seller not the car.
I can chg ecu, and every bit of trk remnants that u will never know it's tracked. I usually look,at car, look at buyer, then I decide wire or not. compression leak down I don't really care.
Old 04-23-2014, 01:57 AM
  #54  
bigmacsmallfries
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
 
bigmacsmallfries's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2014
Location: Canada
Posts: 402
Received 6 Likes on 5 Posts
Default

Originally Posted by Reddy Kilowatt
None of this makes any sense to me. Never owned a Porsche, so first car must be GT3 RS. Worried about prior abuse, but buying used from a dealer w/ no ability to talk w/ PO. Buying a car to use for the street, but buying one that's been tracked extensively. Have to have the right car, but color and close to home are the driving factors. Finances not an issue, but buying used and worried about repair costs. What am I missing?
Over analyzing. Just looking for a grey black RS within a 10 hour drive from where I'm located that doesn't have extensive suspension mods or extensive track time.

I don't want extensive track time not because of cost, but because the car begins to feels 'loose' and not 'tight' or crisp behind the wheel. Don't want to the interior to start squeaking either.

I'm a car enthusiast, and decided I want to get the car that I believe is the best driver's car out there. Can't fault me for that.


Anyways guys, I'm not here to share some petty 1st world problems. Just wanted to get a detailed answer of what to look out for. I decided 3 months ago I was going to go ahead with this purchase, everyone has to start somewhere...
Old 04-23-2014, 01:59 AM
  #55  
bigmacsmallfries
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
 
bigmacsmallfries's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2014
Location: Canada
Posts: 402
Received 6 Likes on 5 Posts
Default

Originally Posted by Alan C.
10 ignitions would only be 3 revolutions. I hit the rev limiter in my 11 GTS with PDK and I think it showed around 15. A PDK equipped car in sport plus with manual engaged can register stage 1 hits.
Good to know, thanks!
Old 04-23-2014, 08:41 AM
  #56  
LVDell
Nordschleife Master
 
LVDell's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2003
Location: Tobacco Road, NC
Posts: 5,225
Likes: 0
Received 28 Likes on 23 Posts
Default

Originally Posted by bigmacsmallfries
Thanks for that tidbit. Would explain why I got a dme report for one car with 3000 miles and 35,000 type 1 ignitions, a second 8500 mile car with 15,000 type 1 ignitions, and then a highly modified track car (no expenses spared) with 141 type 1 ignitions but with 16,000 miles. That's when I feel the DME report is no longer valid, and can not trust the seller anymore.
That's owner dependent. This is not a linear nor causal relationship that the more miles the car has the more over-revs it has. I bought mine as an 8K mile cream puff and have treated it the same and yet have taken it to the track about 1/2 dozen times and have absolutely no over-revs. I don't run it to the rev limiter when on track and consistently shift a few hundred rpm before that. I've got mine up to 14K miles now so how many over-revs "should" I have???
Old 04-23-2014, 11:19 AM
  #57  
ShakeNBake
Rennlist Member
 
ShakeNBake's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2009
Posts: 5,654
Received 954 Likes on 552 Posts
Default

Originally Posted by bigmacsmallfries
Over analyzing. Just looking for a grey black RS within a 10 hour drive from where I'm located that doesn't have extensive suspension mods or extensive track time.

I don't want extensive track time not because of cost, but because the car begins to feels 'loose' and not 'tight' or crisp behind the wheel. Don't want to the interior to start squeaking either.

I'm a car enthusiast, and decided I want to get the car that I believe is the best driver's car out there. Can't fault me for that.


Anyways guys, I'm not here to share some petty 1st world problems. Just wanted to get a detailed answer of what to look out for. I decided 3 months ago I was going to go ahead with this purchase, everyone has to start somewhere...
Porsches make a lot of noises, especially the RS, compared to say, a BMW. Every RS I've been in has not been without squeaks, rattles, and enough road/wind noise to render the audio system useless. I wear in-ear headphones when I drive mine longer distances. If you want to minimize noise, stay away from aftermarket suspension arms with solid/spherical bushings, after market exhausts, aftermarket engine/transmission bushings, and aftermarket/motorsports transmission shift cables.

If you want to get back to a tight feeling (which shouldn't be an issue with the very stiff bushings on the GT3, but if quels your psychosis..) it's a simple matter of replacing all the bushings and replacing shocks.

Honestly, the RS is a pretty terrible street car at legal speeds. Up there with an Ariel Atom.
Old 04-23-2014, 11:28 AM
  #58  
orthojoe
Nordschleife Master
 
orthojoe's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2010
Location: Bay Area
Posts: 7,804
Received 191 Likes on 94 Posts
Default

Originally Posted by Reddy Kilowatt
None of this makes any sense to me. Never owned a Porsche, so first car must be GT3 RS. Worried about prior abuse, but buying used from a dealer w/ no ability to talk w/ PO. Buying a car to use for the street, but buying one that's been tracked extensively. Have to have the right car, but color and close to home are the driving factors. Finances not an issue, but buying used and worried about repair costs. What am I missing?
+1

Originally Posted by bigmacsmallfries
I don't want extensive track time not because of cost, but because the car begins to feels 'loose' and not 'tight' or crisp behind the wheel. Don't want to the interior to start squeaking either.
That 'loose' feeling is totally in your head, you know. These cars aren't made out of paper.
Other than mentally feeling better about it, can you explain to us why having range 1 over revs is bad for the car?

Originally Posted by ShakeNBake
Porsches make a lot of noises, especially the RS, compared to say, a BMW. Every RS I've been in has not been without squeaks, rattles, and enough road/wind noise to render the audio system useless.
Yup. OP is gonna think every car is loose.

OP, your only play here to satisfy your needs is to buy a bubble wrapped RS, which will cost you a significant amount more.
Old 04-23-2014, 12:26 PM
  #59  
malmasri
Rennlist Member
 
malmasri's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: close to Mid- Ohio
Posts: 2,038
Received 50 Likes on 35 Posts
Default

A Ferrari CA is makes a very nice tight drive with the right noise, nothing loose except your hair or whats left of it..and if ever tracked, that may be because the previous owner got lost...
with current prices of an RS you do better in a F car....Good luck
Old 04-23-2014, 12:29 PM
  #60  
Reddy Kilowatt
Rennlist Member
 
Reddy Kilowatt's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2008
Location: Out there
Posts: 1,155
Received 1 Like on 1 Post
Default

Originally Posted by bigmacsmallfries
Over analyzing. Just looking for a grey black RS within a 10 hour drive from where I'm located that doesn't have extensive suspension mods or extensive track time.

I don't want extensive track time not because of cost, but because the car begins to feels 'loose' and not 'tight' or crisp behind the wheel. Don't want to the interior to start squeaking either.

I'm a car enthusiast, and decided I want to get the car that I believe is the best driver's car out there. Can't fault me for that.


Anyways guys, I'm not here to share some petty 1st world problems. Just wanted to get a detailed answer of what to look out for. I decided 3 months ago I was going to go ahead with this purchase, everyone has to start somewhere...
You want "tight" and "crisp", but don't want the interior to start squeaking? First, you know you don't have to buy a GT3 RS to have a great handling street car, right? Second, you know that the GT3 RS is about 5x overkill for the street and might not actually be that much fun there, right? Third, you know that the simple act of driving the car (even on the track) doesn't automatically turn it into a squeaking/rattling bucket of bolts, right? Fourth, you know that NOT driving the car on the track is no guarantee that the car won't squeak/rattle, right? Good, just checking.

Don't get me wrong, I'd probably buy one if finances were no object, but I have $10 (finances are no object!) that you'll sell the thing inside of 3 years.


Quick Reply: When purchasing a car, how do you factor in track miles into the wear of the GT3 RS?



All times are GMT -3. The time now is 12:26 AM.