When purchasing a car, how do you factor in track miles into the wear of the GT3 RS?
04-21-2014, 08:14 PM
#16
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^^ Love it. I like how the center console still has the stitched leather side parts.
04-21-2014, 08:22 PM
#17
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^ black are fastest. they scare me so much, i had to buy white to slow down. everything can be put back to stock. clarke, i got parts for you to restore her virginity.
04-22-2014, 01:07 AM
#18
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Thread Starter
Does the track rash come off easily? I see black marks from rubber on the front bumper, on the front of the hood, and the decals on the side. Can they be wiped off the decals on the side or do I need to buy a whole new decal to begin with? Can a clay bar accomplish this, or do I need something else?
Track cars are fine. (if they were maintained as such)
Look at over rev history.
Service records are a must. If serviced at an indy, talk to them.
Track cars should have their oil changed more often. Look for that.
Track car wear items would include:
brake calliper dust boots (typically melt and crack from heat)
Paint (look for obvious track rash from debre etc)
Brake calliper mounting hardware. Excessive brake changes will time out the threads. Proper fix is install studs like the cup car.
Look for cut carpets and drilled/welded floor mounts left behind from roll bars.
All the above is why tracked car typically sell for less then street driven cars.
Again, nothing serious. But keep a keen eye when it comes to negotiating as these thing are a factor.
Look at over rev history.
Service records are a must. If serviced at an indy, talk to them.
Track cars should have their oil changed more often. Look for that.
Track car wear items would include:
brake calliper dust boots (typically melt and crack from heat)
Paint (look for obvious track rash from debre etc)
Brake calliper mounting hardware. Excessive brake changes will time out the threads. Proper fix is install studs like the cup car.
Look for cut carpets and drilled/welded floor mounts left behind from roll bars.
All the above is why tracked car typically sell for less then street driven cars.
Again, nothing serious. But keep a keen eye when it comes to negotiating as these thing are a factor.
04-22-2014, 01:07 AM
#19
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Thread Starter
04-22-2014, 01:13 AM
#20
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Thread Starter
04-22-2014, 01:13 AM
#21
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Does the track rash come off easily? I see black marks from rubber on the front bumper, on the front of the hood, and the decals on the side. Can they be wiped off the decals on the side or do I need to buy a whole new decal to begin with? Can a clay bar accomplish this, or do I need something else?
04-22-2014, 01:18 AM
#22
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The wear from 0 to 6000 and 6000 to 8400 is not linear. There will be more wear in the higher rpm ranges.
04-22-2014, 01:19 AM
#23
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Thread Starter
No worries,
So here's what I'm limited with. My only condition is that it's in the grey black colour. I live in Toronto. I'm willing to buy anything in Canada, and being about 50miles from Buffalo, I'm willing to drive anywhere that's less than a 10 hour drive from Toronto. So basically, any car that's from the Northeast I'll go check out (Illinois, Ohio, tri state area etc).
That leaves me with a total of four cars to select from. I saw one that had severe electrical problems in Chicago. Unfortunately, none of which was disclosed to me before I drove there. There's three others available in the Northeast. All three are previous track cars unfortunately. But DMEs are good, and no issues with the Carfax report.
So here's what I'm limited with. My only condition is that it's in the grey black colour. I live in Toronto. I'm willing to buy anything in Canada, and being about 50miles from Buffalo, I'm willing to drive anywhere that's less than a 10 hour drive from Toronto. So basically, any car that's from the Northeast I'll go check out (Illinois, Ohio, tri state area etc).
That leaves me with a total of four cars to select from. I saw one that had severe electrical problems in Chicago. Unfortunately, none of which was disclosed to me before I drove there. There's three others available in the Northeast. All three are previous track cars unfortunately. But DMEs are good, and no issues with the Carfax report.
i dont mean to be crass.
based on the info you asked, you are looknig at the wrong car.
for very pristnie cars, i accept zero chips and i am looking for basically NEW cars with zero blemish and i will pay way over mkt for it. for my drivers and track cars. like joe and pjs said, no level 3, not hit, then good enough. i dont run cmpression and leakdown either. if the leakdown is really bad, it will trigger ECU. if it's just single digit, i couldn't care less.
the qeustion is why do you want this particular car?
there are plenty of cars with better DME.
once you figures the "why this car" answer, it will become clear.
based on the info you asked, you are looknig at the wrong car.
for very pristnie cars, i accept zero chips and i am looking for basically NEW cars with zero blemish and i will pay way over mkt for it. for my drivers and track cars. like joe and pjs said, no level 3, not hit, then good enough. i dont run cmpression and leakdown either. if the leakdown is really bad, it will trigger ECU. if it's just single digit, i couldn't care less.
the qeustion is why do you want this particular car?
there are plenty of cars with better DME.
once you figures the "why this car" answer, it will become clear.
04-22-2014, 01:19 AM
#24
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Does the track rash come off easily?
==> if by rash you mean tire marks, they will come off clean off paint, 90% clean off clr bra. if the rash are "rash" then they will not come off.
I see black marks from rubber on the front bumper, on the front of the hood, and the decals on the side. Can they be wiped off the decals on the side or do I need to buy a whole new decal to begin with? Can a clay bar accomplish this, or do I need something else?
===> clay bar will not do well on rubber marks. there are a quite a few items you can use on these, but depending on type of rubber and what surface (decal, paint, clr film) you need different chemical.
==> if by rash you mean tire marks, they will come off clean off paint, 90% clean off clr bra. if the rash are "rash" then they will not come off.
I see black marks from rubber on the front bumper, on the front of the hood, and the decals on the side. Can they be wiped off the decals on the side or do I need to buy a whole new decal to begin with? Can a clay bar accomplish this, or do I need something else?
===> clay bar will not do well on rubber marks. there are a quite a few items you can use on these, but depending on type of rubber and what surface (decal, paint, clr film) you need different chemical.
04-22-2014, 01:21 AM
#25
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Thread Starter
04-22-2014, 01:29 AM
#26
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Thread Starter
Ok so...
1. PPI
2. Over rev report
3. Speak to previous owner
4. Service history
5. Carfax report
6. Engine leak down test
7. Test drive
8. Thorough examination of body panels for any possible undeclared accidents not present on Carfax, or hidden from authorities.
9. Underbody exam to check links/joints etc for any play of wheels.
Anything else?
1. PPI
2. Over rev report
3. Speak to previous owner
4. Service history
5. Carfax report
6. Engine leak down test
7. Test drive
8. Thorough examination of body panels for any possible undeclared accidents not present on Carfax, or hidden from authorities.
9. Underbody exam to check links/joints etc for any play of wheels.
Anything else?
04-22-2014, 01:30 AM
#27
Ok so...
1. PPI
2. Over rev report
3. Speak to previous owner
4. Service history
5. Carfax report
6. Engine leak down test
7. Test drive
8. Thorough examination of body panels for any possible undeclared accidents not present on Carfax, or hidden from authorities.
9. Underbody exam to check links/joints etc for any play of wheels.
Anything else?
1. PPI
2. Over rev report
3. Speak to previous owner
4. Service history
5. Carfax report
6. Engine leak down test
7. Test drive
8. Thorough examination of body panels for any possible undeclared accidents not present on Carfax, or hidden from authorities.
9. Underbody exam to check links/joints etc for any play of wheels.
Anything else?
04-22-2014, 01:39 AM
#28
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If you're concerned about paint work, you might spring for a cheap paint thickness meter to be sure.
04-22-2014, 01:40 AM
#30
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Thread Starter
Oh and this concerns me...
Where is the DME computer located in the car? Is there a VIN number on it so I can confirm that it wasn't swapped out with a new one? Does it have any sort of code printed on it so I can contact Porsche to confirm that it hasn't been swapped with a new one?
Is it possible to leave the same DME module in the car and have the over revs coded out? I've come across different things on the forums, but I want to know if this is possible, and is there any way to detect it if it was previously done?
Where is the DME computer located in the car? Is there a VIN number on it so I can confirm that it wasn't swapped out with a new one? Does it have any sort of code printed on it so I can contact Porsche to confirm that it hasn't been swapped with a new one?
Is it possible to leave the same DME module in the car and have the over revs coded out? I've come across different things on the forums, but I want to know if this is possible, and is there any way to detect it if it was previously done?