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Old 10-28-2013 | 11:30 AM
  #16  
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Originally Posted by 007DT
I'd say look for a nice Sea Ray.
...
Salt Walter is particularly hard on the engine as it is using salt water (corrosive) to cool the engine and salt water sits in the haul, etc. if you can find an inland (fresh water) boat you'll be better off especially since you are looking at boats up to 10yrs old.
It is a great starting point for me to narrow the effort. Thanks!

Perhaps last thing I want to make clear for myself, if we speak of a moderate conditions out of the bay when you get 5-8ft waves, will a 30ft long Sea Ray broken apart or not? What in reality can those boats sustain other than a nice sunny almost windless day?
I was on some larger sea boats may be 3-4 times as a guest, and was a lot of time on small lake boats but I completely lack any experience with this mid-range marine stuff so it`s a lot of void to fill.

Also, I see in some listing 'engine/s converted for fresh water coolant' - does it mean they have an internal tank for separate non-salted coolant water? I know I really need to find a good dedicated forum to ask those basic questions but not sure where to go. What would be a best place to go to read about all those technical aspects?
Old 10-28-2013 | 11:37 AM
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fresh water cooling basically means there is a heat exchanger between engine cooling system and body of water you are in. Pulls in water to heat exchanger to cool fresh water in engine's system. Better than cooling engine directly with salty H2O.

Not sure about good forums. I would google boating forums and check several of them out and I am sure you will find one you like more than others.

A sea ray or any good quality boat will not break apart in larger seas. A good boat will lilkely tolerate bigger seas more comfortably than you will.
Old 10-28-2013 | 11:38 AM
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Originally Posted by roberga
Be VERY picky buying used.
Ok, I am really in a hard spot here but would it be possible to get some sort of a 'check list' items that one would need to go over if, say, I would want to buy specifically this one shown below?
Or should it be a hired pro to come with me to do a proper inspection like a PPI with our cars?

http://www.boattrader.com/listing/20...Ray-320-368778
Old 10-28-2013 | 11:42 AM
  #19  
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Originally Posted by tasman
A sea ray or any good quality boat will not break apart in larger seas. A good boat will lilkely tolerate bigger seas more comfortably than you will.
good. as just yesterday I have read on the forum that google brings up on the topic anything less than a Nordhavn will fall apart from any high seas as modern hulls are not designed to sustain any damage.

so I do need to apply some BS filters here to separate what is relevant... google brings up way too much stuff and way too many opinions.
Old 10-28-2013 | 11:49 AM
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I would recommend a 310 Sea Ray Sundancer. I had a 2001, took my wife and two daughters from Wrightsville Beach, NC to Annapolis, MD and back. The boat is a work horse. Comes with twin engines, plenty of power and a very strong hull. You should be able to find one in that price range. Look for a fresh water lake boat with covered storage. They can ship it anywhere. Focus on a fresh water boat so the heat exchangers are good. Dont' buy a Carver or Bayliner, you will never be able to sell it. If you get caught in bad sea conditions the 310 can take a beating. You must consider the ability so sell the boat before you buy it. Feel free to contact me and I will be glad to answer any questions. Be sure to have any used boat surveyed!!
Old 10-28-2013 | 11:55 AM
  #21  
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Originally Posted by MarkG123
I would recommend a 310 Sea Ray Sundancer.
Is there any reason to avoid 300 or 320? 310 seems to fit my needs very well and I see some for sale, but just curious if there are some other factors and what are important differences between, say, 300,320 and 310?

Or is 310 preferable as it is simpler to transport around? It is actually an important aspect I forgot to ask at all - can this 310 be towed on a highway with, say, consumer grade F150 or F250 truck or is it way too big to be hauled around on your own and can only be moved by a special hired rig?

Also, if I were to buy, how different is a seasonal price hike if I start searching in April-May next year? What time is typically the 'best' one to find those boat cheaper? Is it safe to buy one when it is out of water? Sorry to sound stupid, but, how do I know it does not leak if it gets sold from a dry dock or storage somewhere? I see on boatstrader they typically state 'selling as-is' so it does not seem to build up much confidence of what you going to get unless you can actually test it on the water...

Last edited by utkinpol; 10-28-2013 at 12:23 PM.
Old 10-28-2013 | 12:15 PM
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Paul

310 is too large to trailer on your own, but can be shipped by companies that have the right equipment, i.e. F-250 and the right commercial trailer. ( Road transport requires a permit to ship on the roads so leave this to the pros.) The 310 is not a boat ramp type launch boat, although it can be launched via boat ramp. The SR 300 and 320 are nice boats, however the newer SR construction on the new 300 is not a robust at the 310. Also, I believe the 300 is too small for what you want and may not have sidewalks. Off season is a good time to look, ,take your time you also can have the hull surveyed, ping tested to look for soft spots or water intrusion. Make sure your purchase contract is contingent on passing a sea trail in the spring. You want to run to boat to be sure it can pull the rated RPM and boat speed, (published by SR with out overheating and vibration. This is a must test before signing off on the boat. This boat is also equipped with a generator an AC/Heating system, full galley with range/frig/micowave shower and head. All these systems should be tested during the sea trial. Do not purchase until these systems are operational.

I believe the 2001-2002 are best years for the 310 Sundancer. SR change the design soon after that an in my eyes built a lesser boat.

Mark

Last edited by MarkG123; 10-28-2013 at 12:32 PM.
Old 10-28-2013 | 12:36 PM
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Paul

One the best sources for shopping boats is yacht world. com

Everybody refers to this site.

Mark
Old 10-28-2013 | 12:50 PM
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Originally Posted by tasman
Gorgeous Hinckley!
+1000

That boat should have its own chapter in the text book of beautiful.
Old 10-28-2013 | 01:41 PM
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What about a working lobster boat. The Hinkley is modeled after one.
I have a job driving this thing in the summer in the Pacific North West
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Old 10-28-2013 | 03:04 PM
  #26  
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I have a soft spot for trawlers and will eventually end up in one. But alas a trawler is not what you are looking for your first family boat. Nordhavn, Fleming, Grand Banks etc are all nice and designed to hold lots of fuel and go long distance.

Your best bet is to look for the next boat show in your area or while on vacation. (ft.lauderdale international boat show Oct 31-Nov 4th).
Look at all the sport crusiers manufacturers and talk to them.
Again, try to find out which manufacture has the "joystick" control system as it will make all the difference in your experience, narows your search in the used market and will be better resale when the time comes.
Once you narrow down which make/models offer a joystick you can then begin your hunt or find a broker to help you.
Anything you buy will want a Marine Survey carried out by a professional. (PPI)

Finding a fresh water boat is always nice. (it may require a few minor changes before you dip it into salt water.) Michigan has fresh water boats, so it would be a nice place to look.

Boston Whaler or Grady White make nice 30ft boats with twin outboard motors. Not the express crusier market, but not to be overlooked.

Again, Boat show. bring retirement pants, deck shoes, nautical belt and capt's hat.
Old 10-28-2013 | 03:44 PM
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Originally Posted by utkinpol
It is a great starting point for me to narrow the effort. Thanks!

Perhaps last thing I want to make clear for myself, if we speak of a moderate conditions out of the bay when you get 5-8ft waves, will a 30ft long Sea Ray broken apart or not? What in reality can those boats sustain other than a nice sunny almost windless day?
I was on some larger sea boats may be 3-4 times as a guest, and was a lot of time on small lake boats but I completely lack any experience with this mid-range marine stuff so it`s a lot of void to fill.

Also, I see in some listing 'engine/s converted for fresh water coolant' - does it mean they have an internal tank for separate non-salted coolant water? I know I really need to find a good dedicated forum to ask those basic questions but not sure where to go. What would be a best place to go to read about all those technical aspects?
5ft with something like a Sundancer will have H2O coming in where the windshield and canvas join. Trawler or sedan bridge will keep H2o out.
Club SeaRay is a good forum. Fresh water cooling is the ONLY way to go. Keeps salt water out of engine
Old 10-28-2013 | 03:50 PM
  #28  
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Originally Posted by utkinpol
Is there any reason to avoid 300 or 320? 310 seems to fit my needs very well and I see some for sale, but just curious if there are some other factors and what are important differences between, say, 300,320 and 310?

Or is 310 preferable as it is simpler to transport around? It is actually an important aspect I forgot to ask at all - can this 310 be towed on a highway with, say, consumer grade F150 or F250 truck or is it way too big to be hauled around on your own and can only be moved by a special hired rig?

Also, if I were to buy, how different is a seasonal price hike if I start searching in April-May next year? What time is typically the 'best' one to find those boat cheaper? Is it safe to buy one when it is out of water? Sorry to sound stupid, but, how do I know it does not leak if it gets sold from a dry dock or storage somewhere? I see on boatstrader they typically state 'selling as-is' so it does not seem to build up much confidence of what you going to get unless you can actually test it on the water...
310 would be about 10,000 pounds dry and I guess about 10-12 beam. Too big to trailer. Insurance companies will not insure without a survey. Same for banks. They cost $10-$20 per foot and inspect every aspect of the boat. NEVER buy a boat without one. If for no other reason for the safety of your family.
Old 10-28-2013 | 04:00 PM
  #29  
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Originally Posted by utkinpol
Ok, I am really in a hard spot here but would it be possible to get some sort of a 'check list' items that one would need to go over if, say, I would want to buy specifically this one shown below?
Or should it be a hired pro to come with me to do a proper inspection like a PPI with our cars?

http://www.boattrader.com/listing/20...Ray-320-368778
find a surveyor service, one that does not do repairs. Insurance companies will not cover you boat without one if the boat is more than 2-3 years old, Banks will not loan money either. Never but a boat other than a 13 foot Boston Whaler without a proper survey Structure and mechanical . Typically $10-$20 per foot of boat plus haul fee at marina. Real survey can not be completed in the water.
Looks very nice and with 240 hours on a 2002 unreal. mine has 1700 hours 1995.
Old 10-28-2013 | 04:17 PM
  #30  
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Paul

FYI, the 2002 320 is the same boat as the 310. SR marketing department changed the name to sell "more boat". Same boat. The bayshore NY 320 boattrader boat looks nice. This is what you are looking for. Condition is everything, of course complete disclosure will take place during the survey.


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