C4SxM5

My matco tool guy is hooking me up on a torque wrench so I don't have to borrow it any longer from him and wanted to see which is a better deal.

1. NEW

3/4" Dr. "Split Beam" Torque Wrench w/ Detachable Head (200-600 Ft/Lbs) $340

http://www.torqwrench.com/tools/item...ckCode=C4D600F

2. USED


Torque Wrench, Adj. Click Type, U.S., Detach-Ratchet, 200-600 ft. lb., 3/4" drive
Stock#: TQR600E $450

http://buy1.snapon.com/catalog/item....store&tool=all

I will only be using it a handful of times to swap wheels, no tracking so am leaning towards the PI one but if the snap on is a better deal and I can sale later for around the same price I would rather get the snap on.

Thoughts?

LehmanZ06

I have the PI it's been good, no worries.

Just remember on side when you put it together says CW and the other says CCW.
On time when I put it together (it just s snaps in), I couldn't figure out why it wasn't working, duh !

C4SxM5

Yeah, from my search here it seems most RL uses the PI. my sales guy is just trying to talk me into the SNAPON since its half the price of new...

Red Bear

+1 for snap on and here is the best one if you can go one piece:

DC640

aren they essentially the same thing with different name on it? If initial cost is cheaper with Snapon, why not

C4SxM5

Red bear what makes the one you are referring to better than the one my guy is offering? Just curious because he said he could get me the QD4R600 for cheaper than both the PI and the used snap on.


Kormaster I heard they are the same just snap on are more due to the name.

911rox

Given the choice on like money, I'd take the snapon... If its used, may need to factor in for a calibration service to ensure its within spec... Also check their specs for +/- % variance... less is best!!

mooty

the best would be snap on, one piece, beam type. not sure if there is such model
b/n snap on and PI, i take snap on. maybe the are the same, but i like snap on, the cool chics on those old politically incorrect snap on calendars, what else do you want?
b/n beam and click type, always get beam. less calibaration, no need to return to zero.

ttdan

Have a stahwille 730n, very pleased.

Red Bear

http://buy1.snapon.com/catalog/item....da&dir=catalog

Started out with the Precision model and I found the quality to be low. The gauge seemed to move everytime I used it and the quick release joints get loose after a while. In additional to this it's a pain in the butt to take apart. The Snap On I suggested is the best tool money can buy and provides me an extra level of confidence.

DRPM

^
I believe you are correct, I have the 3 pce PI which work well IMO.

What make size breaker bar do you fellows use?

MJones

The PI works well and brakes down and will fit in the luggage comp!

C4SxM5

another noob questions. why can't you use the torque wrench to remove the wheel vs. a breaker bar? the last time I took my car to get a flat repaired the tech used a PI torque wrench to remove and remount my wheel.

I've place an order for a used snap on QD4R600 w/ the following specs:
Gear Teeth 32
Head Depth, inches 1 1/4
Head Style Fixed Ratchet
Head Width, inches 2 1/2
Increments 5 ft. lb.
Length, inches 42 3/4
Range, maximum 600 ft. lb.
Range, minimum 120 ft. lb.
Ratchet Service Kit RKRQC4
Square Drive, inches 3/4
Storage Case PBQC4
Swing Arc 11°

Hopefully this will be all I need to remove and install my wheels. Will probably use it a handful of times to swap between a few different sets of wheels.

ttdan

You can use the Stahlwille as a breaker bar with no ill effects. Wth the ratchet head just reverse the rachet and its not using any of the torque mechanism in the c/w direction. This is useful on the cl wheel to do the 60 dgree back off for the final tighten. Also, you can reverse the racchet and actually apply torque in the ccw direction so you can actually check the torqie required to loosen the nut if you wanted too.

http://www.stahlwilleu-mil.com/page2...0Manual-09.pdf

SmokinGTS

I use the PI as you do not need to relieve the tension when your done. I use a Nieko breaker bar for loosing the nut.