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I put the inquisitive baby as a “wait a minute” after I had just spent time putting a belt on, only to take it out the very next day 😂
And you'd figure it would be faster the second time, but threading that belt is a tight ordeal 😆
The back of the package also says it’s “long life EPDM rubber compound-
AND, the funny thing is I got the belt at Autozone-I wanted to get the newer version superseding the Elite V and searched for parts stores that sell in volume and might have it in stock-sure enough, there it was, and Made in Germany 👍
This belt also fits Miatas, some Nissan cars as well, that’s probably why they had it-
I found a nice article explaining the evolution of the multi V belt, and the first car to use it was the 1979 Mustang-At $25 for the belt it really is a good idea to replace it after 6 years, even if your car only has around 20K miles. The article also explains that it's harder to detect cracks in the new EPDM belts compared to the older neoprene ones and that these belts should last 10 years. In the case of higher revving and more powerful/performance engines it makes sense Porsche recommends 6 year intervals.
There's a youtube video of a rallye 997 GT3 in New Zealand in which the belt failed and it was pretty catastrophic to the airbox and center muffler, though it was able to be repaired. I haven't seen any catastrophic street 911 belt failure videos or posts, but maybe there are examples,
Here's the article: https://www.autoserviceprofessional....v-belt-systems
I had mentioned belt failure on a New Zealand rallye-it was actually a center muffler blowout which caused belt failure and airbox damage-minute 9:15 more or less:
But I imagine an old belt would show signs on its way out, so always inspect. There are lots of areas in the engine compartment that could get damaged(hoses, etc)
I had mentioned belt failure on a New Zealand rallye-it was actually a center muffler blowout which caused belt failure and airbox damage-minute 9:15 more or less:
But I imagine an old belt would show signs on its way out, so always inspect. There are lots of areas in the engine compartment that could get damaged(hoses, etc)
Curious, with the fuel filter, what is the point of having a ground connected to it? From my research it appears static can build up in the lines? Would this be a fire hazard then?
Curious, with the fuel filter, what is the point of having a ground connected to it? From my research it appears static can build up in the lines? Would this be a fire hazard then?
not an EE, but everything grounded has the same static potential. so, this prevents the fuel filter from sparking
This has been a great thread. I followed the instructions for the drive belt. As stated earlier, it was like wrestling a snake.
I have a 997.2 GT3 with AC, so I ordered a 997 102 151 90 Ribbed V-belt. I had triple checked the part number to be sure that i have correct one. 😀
After properly routing the belt through all the pulleys, it seems that i need an extra 1/4 inch of slack to get on the idler near the alternator.
I have a Standard Crankshaft pulley and not a Dundon Motorsports harmonic damper. In a relaxed state, i get some slack between the crank pulley and power steering pulley, as well as, between the water pump and the alternator idler. I try to get the slack out while moving the tensioner. I am using a breaker bar with a 15 mm socket to move the tensioner.
Does anyone have any advice on installing this. I read that someone used the power steering pump pulley as the belt entry/exit point, have not tried that yet.
There is a lot of wrap on the Power Steering pump pulley. Are they removing the power steering pump pulley itself? Just asking in advance in case that method doesn’t work for me.
Old Belt:
Old belt, prior to removal
New Belt:
New belt, after installation. Not completely routed.
Thank you!
Paul
Last edited by PDL996; 07-31-2023 at 06:50 PM.
Reason: Add content
I went and got the Continental 4060855 OE Technology Series V-belt. Yes, i was using a breaker bar with 15 mm socket.
When I would release the tension, the tension idler belt would make contact with the adjacent idler, under the alternator, I needed 1/4 inch more slack.
I reworked the belt and inspected it and the routing, did not find any issues. I measured the thickness of the belt and got the following results.
The original belt had a thickness of 5.00 mm.
The replacement Porsche OEM V-belt has a thickness of 5.25 mm.
The replacement Continental OE Technology Series V-belt has a thickness of 4.75 mm.
i found this a bit interesting. When i remove the Porsche OEM one, i will compare lengths with old vs. the Conti belt.
My car goes in for a service in a couple of weeks. I may have the dealer put the Porsche OEM one in.
Thank you for the advice. We will see how the Conti belt works. Right now it is raining like crazy here, so it will be tomorrow.
I've been running the Continental since I installed it with no issues-someone had routed the belt incorrectly in the middle of this thread, here's the correct threading:
09-08-2019, 01:56 AM
