Spyerx

These are 6yr suggested services and given the RS I picked up is just turning 6 years decided I might as well, the parts are cheap from suncoast.

Step 1 for both:
--Remove the air filter box
--No other removal is necessary and I didn't bother jacking the car up, not needed.

Fuel Filter
I found a really great thread here:
Great fuel filter thread

However there are a couple differences in the 997 connections, the filter is the same. The trick here is rags and being gentle unhooking the filter from the coolant tank. The above thread explains all the other steps. See the below pic for 997 specific connections.

Before starting the car, ensure you have double checked all connections are TIGHT and the piping has snapped back together.



Drive Belt
Despite the access issues, this was the easiest drive belt replacement I've done since my 1979 toyota landcruiser FJ40.
1. Take a few pictures first so you make sure you get the routing right.
The trick here is a long breaker bar which makes moving the idler pulley really easy.
2. Once the belt is off the idler, just work the belt out, it's tight, but will come out. I did crawl under the car and used a long screwdriver to unloop the belt from the crank pulley.
3. Now, for putting it back in, I started with the crank pulley, work the belt down there and crawl under the car, get it looped on, then I routed the belt on the right side of the engine, then the left. Get it routed on all the accessories.
4. The final route is the idler pulley next to the pulley that moves, when ready, crank the idler pulley, slip it on the other idler pulley
5. Use a light and crawl under the car, ensure the belt is on all the pulleys correctly!!! You do not want to shred a belt. Check and double check before starting car.



Couple other items while you have it apart:
--Use some MAF cleaner, pull the MAF out (requires T-20 security bit) and clean it up. Clean the housing. Don't use anything but MAF cleaner on the MAF. Sensitive electrical device!!!
--Clean the throttle body with throttle body cleaner and use a rag to capture any run off, wipe it clean. Rotate the butterfly and make sure it's all clean. Mine was a little dirty.

Last part:
Clean up the engine bay a bit and put the filter box back on.
Start the car, it may sputter a little bit due to fuel filter being empty, but mine started right up. Check the belt and check to ensure the fuel filter is NOT LEAKING!!!!

All this took me less than 2 hours.

jackb911

Thanks for posting this. I need to do this to my newly acquired '07.

Great pictures and captions!

Serge944

To relieve the belt tension, I turn the tensioner pulley directly with a 24mm wrench.

Spyerx

I assume you mean an open ended 24mm wrench? Certainly an option, but I don't think you could wedge a socket in there so a wrench would be required (and I didn't have a 24mm wrench handy). The access to the 15mm nut is much easier so i can only assume that is why it was placed there. Some other engine designs do not have that nut and the 24mm idler pulley is the proper way to release the tension.

PelicanParts.com

Nice write-up!

ymc226

Thanks to Spyerx for inspiring me to do some of my own maintenance. The 996 GT3 thread referred to was missing the pictures so I took some when undertaking this change and added some instructions as well. It worked well but took me a few hours as I was going slow so as not to break anything.

As for the part on pulling the fuse while the engine was running, that was from the original thread, so as to de-pressurize the system. There was still quite a significant amount of fuel that leaked so I am not sure this step is needed.
GT3 replace fuel filter

tools needed
1. Phillips and flat screwdriver
2. 19mm open wrench x 2 (stubby/extra short)
3. plug from new fuel filter
4. 9/32” socket + ¼” ratchet
5. rags

1. remove air filter box to allow more room to work.

2. (to depressurize fuel system) start engine and while running, pull D2 fuse in fuse bay at foot well using yellow tool + press throttle until engine dies.

3. place rags under front and back connectors near fuel filter and under filter itself.

4. pull off ground cable from front of filter.

5. on the black connector closet to you, push in both top and bottom release buttons and separate. Fuel will spill out so have the rag positioned correctly.

6. There are two metal fittings that connect the fuel line to the filter. To loosen this connection you must use two 19mm wrenches simultaneously in the opposite direction. (LEFT wrench toward DRIVER side, RIGHT wrench toward PASSENGER side).

7. Unscrew the captive connector (the one on the LEFT) and remove from filter. Use plug from new filter to stop fuel spillage.

8. at the top regarding the line farthest from you, disconnect the black hardline by pushing in the white buttoned quick release mechanism and pull apart. There will be fuel spillage so have another rag in the correct position.

9. the fuel line that comes attached to the back of the filter (the one with the clip on) must end up at 12'o clock once you've finished tightening the nut up, this is important to avoid any twisting or bending of the two fuel lines.

10. unclip the two black hoses from the black plastic seats on the right of the filter.

11. remove the filter by pulling black tab on the filter mount located under the filter toward you (back of engine) and off the coolant reservoir. NO need to touch the hose clamp surrounding the filter at this time.

12. wiggle the fuel filter toward the back of the engine bay and remove. All connections to the filter have already been disconnected.

13. loosen the hose clamp on the filter holder using the 9/32” socket, remove old fuel filter and install the holder in the same orientation on the new fuel filter.

14. wiggle the new filter in the correct orientation into position, making sure the black “tongue” on the mount facing away from you slides into the slot on the coolant reservoir.

15. Snap the 2 black lines back into their respective holders on the right side of the filter mount.

16. reconnect the top black line (with white release button). IMPORTANT: use thumb and index finger to push the 2 ends together hard until a “snap” is heard as the line may come apart causing a fuel spill.

17. reconnect the bottom black hardline with the silver fitting by pressing at both 12 and 6 o’clock positions and slipping the silver fitting into the black connector. Press together hard, making sure the sliver fitting “slips” all the way into the connector.

18. reconnect the front fitting using two 19mm open end wrenches to tighten down the fittings. To tighten, go the opposite direction with the wrenches. (LEFT wrench toward the PASSENGER side and the RIGHT wrench toward DRIVER side)

19. re-connect ground cable.

Ur20v

when you say 'to the drivers side' and 'to the passender side' its confusing depending on where you live!

Right hand side is the proper side

robbieracer

I just replaced my belt last week and noticed your layout is different than mine. The first belt I ordered from Pelican was way too short, so my local dealer ordered my belt via my VIN. He mentioned there were a couple different sizes listed.

Spyerx

what is different about the layout?
I see the same accessories in the same places.
There are 2 belt options for the street cars, with or without AC, and the same belt for all the 997 variants (if i recall correctly)

robbieracer

Yes, our accessories are exactly the same but my belt layout is different than yours.

r6elmo

good thread - thanks!

Ur20v

There are two ways to put the belt on and it will work and run- only one way is the correct way (changed between 996 and the 997 GT3's from pictures and parts cataloge images I have seen) so be careful.

Not just taking photos doesn't help- mine had been fitted wrong by the previous owner/workshop!!

I will see if I can find the correct fitting map.

Ur20v

The correct way....

robbieracer

Great, thanks for sharing this. I was searching around the Internet a couple weeks ago, but couldn't find a decent image. Looks like mine is correct.

Charles@dundonmotorsports

To make belt removal and install easier I remove the power steering pulley first.

Also, you can use a 15mm socket on the belt tensioner, easier than a 24mm wrench IMO