Brake experts....
#1
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
![Default](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
... some help needed, as I need to take care of my 997.2 GT3 brakes
1. After the weekend in TWS, I guess this rotors are pretty much gone.... comments from "allowable" cracks are appreaciated, as well as any insight on patterns, etc.
2. Any reason why the perforations are mostly clogged? I'm running stock pads and rotors. Again this is visible after a TWS weekend (TDE HPDE)
3. I'd probably stick with stock materials as my car is still under CPO for 2.5 yrs. I have a set of pads (stock) ready.
4. how much is typically labor for rotors and pads replacement? Any better place to buy from than suncoast?
Thanks !!!
JC
1. After the weekend in TWS, I guess this rotors are pretty much gone.... comments from "allowable" cracks are appreaciated, as well as any insight on patterns, etc.
2. Any reason why the perforations are mostly clogged? I'm running stock pads and rotors. Again this is visible after a TWS weekend (TDE HPDE)
3. I'd probably stick with stock materials as my car is still under CPO for 2.5 yrs. I have a set of pads (stock) ready.
4. how much is typically labor for rotors and pads replacement? Any better place to buy from than suncoast?
Thanks !!!
JC
#2
Rennlist Member
![Default](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
going through this now myself...and asking a few similar questions on here...
My understanding from talking to a porsche tech is 5mm total length of the crack is their spec. However, many here will run them further.
Given you are tracking, I'm not sure the CPO on things like brakes is really relevant as they are wear parts. You may want to go to slotted (performance friction seems to be a favorite here) along with their pads. It may cost you much less in the long run.
My indy quotes 1-1.5hrs per axle for a rotor and pad replacement, and I think that is reasonable. Not sure what dealer standard quote spec is.
Suncoast has good prices on OEM replacements.
My understanding from talking to a porsche tech is 5mm total length of the crack is their spec. However, many here will run them further.
Given you are tracking, I'm not sure the CPO on things like brakes is really relevant as they are wear parts. You may want to go to slotted (performance friction seems to be a favorite here) along with their pads. It may cost you much less in the long run.
My indy quotes 1-1.5hrs per axle for a rotor and pad replacement, and I think that is reasonable. Not sure what dealer standard quote spec is.
Suncoast has good prices on OEM replacements.
#3
![Default](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
The 'holes' are filled with brake dust from your pads. The general plan should be to clean these out either with an air hose or a small drill on each and every hole before and after an event. To be honest you should just go get some new rotors at this point. however, every time you go to the track you clean out your rotors. The pad wear is enormous compared to the street. The rotors crack with heat. The cleaner you keep them the less heat they tend to retain. PS.. do the rotor replacement your self. this part is not hard stuff
#4
Rennlist Member
![Default](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
You got some decent size cracks, but I've seen worse.
OEM pads are not going to hold up to track use if you are a fairly experienced driver. They aren't made to handle the temps during track use.
Performance Friction rotors will take the punishment for sure. But if you want to stick with stock rotors, just switching to PF or Pagid pads, and a good racing brake fluid like Castrol SRF, Endless, Motul RBF 600/660, or Performance Friction 665 will make a world of difference. I've been around TWS, and there are a few places you are really using the brakes over the course of a lap. Also make sure you are getting a good flow of air to the rotors and calipers.
Kind regards,
Mark
OEM pads are not going to hold up to track use if you are a fairly experienced driver. They aren't made to handle the temps during track use.
Performance Friction rotors will take the punishment for sure. But if you want to stick with stock rotors, just switching to PF or Pagid pads, and a good racing brake fluid like Castrol SRF, Endless, Motul RBF 600/660, or Performance Friction 665 will make a world of difference. I've been around TWS, and there are a few places you are really using the brakes over the course of a lap. Also make sure you are getting a good flow of air to the rotors and calipers.
Kind regards,
Mark
#5
Rennlist Member
![Default](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
I have boxes full of rotors that are worse then that and they will probably be fine for a few more weekends.
They seem to last very long without getting much worse, but the can crack all the way through suddenly when you stop (red flag) or for some reason you can't cool your brakes before stopping.
Yours could be fine for a session worst case but with proper cool down maybe 10 days. How many days on these?
For piece of mind change your pads and rotors once so you can if you ever need to on the track
They seem to last very long without getting much worse, but the can crack all the way through suddenly when you stop (red flag) or for some reason you can't cool your brakes before stopping.
Yours could be fine for a session worst case but with proper cool down maybe 10 days. How many days on these?
For piece of mind change your pads and rotors once so you can if you ever need to on the track
![thumbsup](https://rennlist.com/forums/graemlins/bigok.gif)
#6
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
![Default](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
Thanks everybody for your replies. Some data to better help in response to ya'll comments:
I've never changed rotors, bought the car with 6800 miles without cracks (maybe it was not seriously tracked before)
I have 10 track days with these brakes (4 sessions each day - about 25 min), 8 of them in MSR Houston (not that much heavy braking), and 2 days at TWS.
I wanted to run a bit more stock before moving to a better brake (PFC? slotted or something else) as I keep learning... currently running in the yellow group in TDE (Texas), so just getting faster but not at the top of the car surely (best laps at TWS are at 2.03.xx).
On the CPO point, my concenrn was more "you're running not OEM parts, hence we're not responsible for the failure on the ...(hubs or whatever else may fail)"
I've never changed rotors, bought the car with 6800 miles without cracks (maybe it was not seriously tracked before)
I have 10 track days with these brakes (4 sessions each day - about 25 min), 8 of them in MSR Houston (not that much heavy braking), and 2 days at TWS.
I wanted to run a bit more stock before moving to a better brake (PFC? slotted or something else) as I keep learning... currently running in the yellow group in TDE (Texas), so just getting faster but not at the top of the car surely (best laps at TWS are at 2.03.xx).
On the CPO point, my concenrn was more "you're running not OEM parts, hence we're not responsible for the failure on the ...(hubs or whatever else may fail)"
#7
Three Wheelin'
![Default](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
AGO Are you running with Drivers Edge? What group are you in?
I just posted videos from the May 18/19 weekend in the 996 GT3 forum.
Tor
I just posted videos from the May 18/19 weekend in the 996 GT3 forum.
Tor
Trending Topics
#8
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
![Default](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
Tor
Yes, in fact I was the GT3 white that was two cars to the left on the garage... I'll check the videos and see if I made the cut !
JC
Yes, in fact I was the GT3 white that was two cars to the left on the garage... I'll check the videos and see if I made the cut !
JC
#9
![Default](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
Add cooling, and than when you think you have enough, add a little more, cool down after sessions are a must to keep them alive for another 10 days ...
I went thru 22 days on my OEM ones, and let's say Sebring is not the easiest track on brakes specially at a fast pace.
I went thru 22 days on my OEM ones, and let's say Sebring is not the easiest track on brakes specially at a fast pace.
#10
Rennlist Member
![Default](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
IIRC the porsche spec on cracks is 7mm and they are done... I let mine go out to 10mm and I swapped them out as I didn't want to risk a failure... yours seem to have some decent length to them. Measure the worst of them when you get a chance to see where you are at...
As for holes, like others have said, the fill up with pad material by half way through the day. I just get a 3" nail or similar and clean them out after each track day. I'm still using OEM pads and they work fine. My last set did almost 2500 track kms to near metal @ PI which is a fast track... Times during this period have dropped from 4sec off pro driver time (in my car) to 0.85sec so I can't say they're not getting worked hard...
As for holes, like others have said, the fill up with pad material by half way through the day. I just get a 3" nail or similar and clean them out after each track day. I'm still using OEM pads and they work fine. My last set did almost 2500 track kms to near metal @ PI which is a fast track... Times during this period have dropped from 4sec off pro driver time (in my car) to 0.85sec so I can't say they're not getting worked hard...
#11
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
![Default](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
I think I have quite few over 10mm. I'll pass the measurement tomorrow ...
If the experts here indicate that they're still ok I shall keep going for a few more sessions.
Tor, I run the yellow group on Sunday, and the last Saturday session.
JC
If the experts here indicate that they're still ok I shall keep going for a few more sessions.
Tor, I run the yellow group on Sunday, and the last Saturday session.
JC
#12
Rennlist Member
![Default](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
AGO:
It really depends on the dealer whether they will give you a hard time about warranty work. I've seen shops that will look for any excuse not to cover a street driven car and others that will do warranty work on a car with number plates still on the side from a weekend at the track. My personal experience is that brakes are not going to cause a problem with most dealers. My car is stock with just a rebuilt diff, pads and uprated fluid. Zero issues with warranty including a couple of big jobs, none abuse or track related.
I would HIGHLY recommend a good set of pads (like the PFC08's). After about 4 track days, I was fading my stock pads badly. When I switched it made the car SO much better. Simple mod; huge payoff.
It really depends on the dealer whether they will give you a hard time about warranty work. I've seen shops that will look for any excuse not to cover a street driven car and others that will do warranty work on a car with number plates still on the side from a weekend at the track. My personal experience is that brakes are not going to cause a problem with most dealers. My car is stock with just a rebuilt diff, pads and uprated fluid. Zero issues with warranty including a couple of big jobs, none abuse or track related.
I would HIGHLY recommend a good set of pads (like the PFC08's). After about 4 track days, I was fading my stock pads badly. When I switched it made the car SO much better. Simple mod; huge payoff.
#14
Three Wheelin'
![Default](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
Hi JC:
I recall, good to meet you. You have a fantastic car, and glad you are doing well with it.
It was a great weekend. My next events are in September with PCA and Drivers Edge.
Hope you see you then.
All the best
Tor
I recall, good to meet you. You have a fantastic car, and glad you are doing well with it.
It was a great weekend. My next events are in September with PCA and Drivers Edge.
Hope you see you then.
All the best
Tor
#15
Three Wheelin'
![Default](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
Search this thread (PFC 08 front PFC 01 back) in the 996GT3 forum, himself posted pictures of how far he went with his rotors.