New Center Lock issue
#32
Race Director
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I've had no personal experience with CL's and to save me the search through the thousands of posts on the subject, what's your (or anyone's) opinion on why some people have issues and some don't?
#33
Racer
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I don’t have an answer to that Mike. I know I have been **** and even double **** to clean, lube and torque mine properly. Never had an issue until the dealer performed the recall. Now it seems they do not stay tight. Doesn’t matter if I torque them or the dealer does. They don’t hold torque. I would convert to five lugs. But I feel with my luck the month after I do Porsche will offer new a better solution.
#37
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some are user error
it's not a natural sequence installing CLZ, and many ppl take short cuts.
#38
Race Car
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u can complain about porsche should do this or that. but realistically, there are only a few things you can do. let me lay it out for you all.
1. sell the damn car cheap. 3.8RS should be about $60,000. pls let me have first dib.
2. put the 5 lug on if you dont trust CL
3. keep the CL and you could be fine like trakcar, savvy and izzone. they are all fast and all no prob.
none of the above cures it all. but you have three choices. take your pick... i actually am doing all three since i cant decide on anything.
1. sell the damn car cheap. 3.8RS should be about $60,000. pls let me have first dib.
2. put the 5 lug on if you dont trust CL
3. keep the CL and you could be fine like trakcar, savvy and izzone. they are all fast and all no prob.
none of the above cures it all. but you have three choices. take your pick... i actually am doing all three since i cant decide on anything.
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#39
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I don’t have an answer to that Mike. I know I have been **** and even double **** to clean, lube and torque mine properly. Never had an issue until the dealer performed the recall. Now it seems they do not stay tight. Doesn’t matter if I torque them or the dealer does. They don’t hold torque. I would convert to five lugs. But I feel with my luck the month after I do Porsche will offer new a better solution.
The hat retention screws are not installed into the countersunk holes in the flange area of the hat.
Look at the hub area of your wheel. See where those hat retention screws screws gouged out the areas? The flat flange area of the wheel was never able to properly seat flat to the hub flange on the car and lock everything together as the engineers had designed it.
And those (non-OE) drive pins, the gouging, show the evidence of a loose wheel.
You dodged a bullet fired from a gun with a U-shaped barrel.
You must now change the hubs of all wheels which have evidence the wheel was not properly seated.
These are the inarguable facts of your situation.
#1 The technician who installed the hats is certainly at fault (for not comprehending he was pulling the pin from a grenade).
#2 The last person who serviced your wheels is at fault. For not having the technical ability to interpret what the parts were screaming to him.
#40
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Upon reviewing the pictures again it is also possible the retention screws will not fit into the more countersunk holes on the hats. Not sure if those holes line up with the holes on the axle flange under the hat. If they do, then this is a 100% installer issue, not a hat manufacturer issue. If that is the case, the onus is on Girodic (and ALL aftermarket CL fitment rotor/hat suppliers) to immediately see that end users are notified to immediately check their installations and include some kind of advisory in the rotor/hat boxes.
Whoever installed the hats f*cked up in a way that could have caused you to lose a wheel.
Whoever installed the hats f*cked up in a way that could have caused you to lose a wheel.
#41
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Bingo!
Last edited by ShakeNBake; 03-03-2013 at 01:03 PM.
#42
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This could have happened...
#43
Racer
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Gulp. Wow. Thank you Savyboy. Think I will keep my appointment with the dealer to see if, or what, they may offer to do to help fix. Meaning replace. Since I am spending money, may just go with 5 lug conversion just to avoid any further potential issues in the future.
Couple questions in this regard if I may. Gong to 5 lug, is it safe to continue using the GiroDisk rotors? Or buy new? For wheels (will do homework) any suggestions?
Couple questions in this regard if I may. Gong to 5 lug, is it safe to continue using the GiroDisk rotors? Or buy new? For wheels (will do homework) any suggestions?
#44
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Gulp. Wow. Thank you Savyboy. Think I will keep my appointment with the dealer to see if, or what, they may offer to do to help fix. Meaning replace. Since I am spending money, may just go with 5 lug conversion just to avoid any further potential issues in the future.
Couple questions in this regard if I may. Gong to 5 lug, is it safe to continue using the GiroDisk rotors? Or buy new? For wheels (will do homework) any suggestions?
Couple questions in this regard if I may. Gong to 5 lug, is it safe to continue using the GiroDisk rotors? Or buy new? For wheels (will do homework) any suggestions?
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5-lug will lead to resale issues, unless you plan to keep the car forever AND you have the wheels on and off a LOT, I personally would recommend against it. As many of us know the CL system is just as robust as a 5-lug if properly serviced and maintained.
The holes on the rotors for lugs/drive pins are different diameters, so different hats for sure if you go 5-lug.
#45
Rennlist Member
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How is a stuctural system that needs to be changed more frequently than fluids "robust"?
There is also ample evidence that proper maintenance is difficult and fraught with significant nuance so proper maintenance is unlikely in the common case given it's level of complexity.
Savvyboy and I are just going to have to agree to disagree.