Torque Solutions Urethane Transmission mount review
#1
Torque Solutions Urethane Transmission mount review
I fitted torque solutions transmission mount a month or so ago, did it on 2 axle stands. Undertrays were fiddly doing it this way. about 1.5hrs start to finish.
Result:
*rear of car now very stable when changing direction and car settles straight away.
*Very positive to throttle inputs
*almost eliminated kangarooing when pulling away at slow/walking speeds
*very positive rifle like action to gear change and now 100% cured any 2-3 shift issues- now a perfect gear change!! Note: I already run cup cables, RSS engine mounts and Numeric Racings shifter.
*Some drone from engine- engine much loader in cabin by ~20%
Jay
Result:
*rear of car now very stable when changing direction and car settles straight away.
*Very positive to throttle inputs
*almost eliminated kangarooing when pulling away at slow/walking speeds
*very positive rifle like action to gear change and now 100% cured any 2-3 shift issues- now a perfect gear change!! Note: I already run cup cables, RSS engine mounts and Numeric Racings shifter.
*Some drone from engine- engine much loader in cabin by ~20%
Jay
#3
Rennlist Member
I have in my 6GT3. I also have RSS engine mounts and cup cables. I use a raised 7GT3RS shifter. The car is incredible to shift and the 2-3 shift problem is gone completely. I do think each change adds to this as I did feel incremental improvements with each change I made (shifter then engine mounts then cables). I would also agree the car is significantly more planted as a result. Riding kerbs at the track, the car remains very planted. Every single instructor that has ridden in my car always is amazed at how planted it is and cannot believe them when I tells them it rides on stock suspension.
Definitely a must do if you track a GT3.
Definitely a must do if you track a GT3.
#4
^^^What mmuller said.
Yes I have tested it hard (not at the track), each mod made a noticeable improvement both in rear end stability of the car and 2-3rd shifts.
I am now sure the main issue is the engine/transmission movement on the soft bushing effecting the gear linkage position and having replaced these bushes know first hand how much movement there was:
The trans could move 3/4" up and down on the nose (front end) and the engine same but in all directions so makes sense hard acceleration/lift off and cornering are going to cause problem.
Nicest mod= Numeric Racings shifter
Final cure/improvement= Torque Solutions trans mount.
Jay
Yes I have tested it hard (not at the track), each mod made a noticeable improvement both in rear end stability of the car and 2-3rd shifts.
I am now sure the main issue is the engine/transmission movement on the soft bushing effecting the gear linkage position and having replaced these bushes know first hand how much movement there was:
The trans could move 3/4" up and down on the nose (front end) and the engine same but in all directions so makes sense hard acceleration/lift off and cornering are going to cause problem.
Nicest mod= Numeric Racings shifter
Final cure/improvement= Torque Solutions trans mount.
Jay
#6
Rennlist Member
Peter
#7
Rennlist Member
Its not so much being afraid. More about time management. If I can have a shop do it while I'm on the phone/laptop working, win win.
I still get iffy 2-3 shifts even with wevo mounts. Maybe I'll throw this in and see if it helps.
I still get iffy 2-3 shifts even with wevo mounts. Maybe I'll throw this in and see if it helps.
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#8
#9
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Join Date: Feb 2006
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There are three possible reasons/solutions given for the 2-3 shift issue of which I'm aware.
One is uprated shift cables, two is firmer transmission mount, and three is transmission heat.
I find the issue presents most consistently - not exclusively - under lateral load in or near the end of hot sessions. This suggests transmission movement and/or heat are significant contributory factors.
I've tried uprated cables on my 6Cup and while they made some improvement it didn't by any means eliminate the problem. As others have also indicated this solution comes with higher cabin noise so it wouldn't be the first thing I'd try for a street-driven car.
The transmission mount seems like a pretty easy, low-cost upgrade and I don't see much downside to reducing the movement of the engine/transmission mass. That said, I'd expect a little more noise here as well.
The two solutions I've heard for cooling the gearbox are synthetic additive/oil or adding a cooler. The first is pretty easy; the latter probably the most involved of all the proposed solutions. I'd like to hear more feedback on other's experiences in this area.
One is uprated shift cables, two is firmer transmission mount, and three is transmission heat.
I find the issue presents most consistently - not exclusively - under lateral load in or near the end of hot sessions. This suggests transmission movement and/or heat are significant contributory factors.
I've tried uprated cables on my 6Cup and while they made some improvement it didn't by any means eliminate the problem. As others have also indicated this solution comes with higher cabin noise so it wouldn't be the first thing I'd try for a street-driven car.
The transmission mount seems like a pretty easy, low-cost upgrade and I don't see much downside to reducing the movement of the engine/transmission mass. That said, I'd expect a little more noise here as well.
The two solutions I've heard for cooling the gearbox are synthetic additive/oil or adding a cooler. The first is pretty easy; the latter probably the most involved of all the proposed solutions. I'd like to hear more feedback on other's experiences in this area.
#12
Agreed, if someone who has their old mount out and handy, with a couple quick measurements(bushing outer mating surface OD, inner surface OD and length of metal insert, length of aluminum housing where bushing sits, and bolt size(Mxx)), I could likely find the identical universal poly bushings and sleeves for 25% of that price and save everyone some coin..
Last edited by 993GT; 01-21-2013 at 02:52 PM. Reason: add more..
#13
Rennlist Member
^
I just did a quick and not very extensive search for polyurethane round stock, and didn't find much that could be bought in small (under 500 kg) lots, but delrin seems readily available. Does anyone know how that would compare in this application?
I just did a quick and not very extensive search for polyurethane round stock, and didn't find much that could be bought in small (under 500 kg) lots, but delrin seems readily available. Does anyone know how that would compare in this application?
#14
Not thinking about fabricating it myself, but rather finding a cross-listing of application (ie. a Volvo 850 top-mount is same dimension etc etc..), or calling Energy, Powerflex, Prothane etc and giving dimension and see what they say...a little home re-working of the bushing is fine as it's a non-moving piece so squeaks and chirps won't occur like it could in a pivoting/moving piece such as suspension bushings
Porsche world has some awesome parts at fair prices but gets ripped off on little things like this, identical looking bushing(1) for my old Volvo track-beater(top engine mount) was around $30 for a Powerflex from local shop...
Porsche world has some awesome parts at fair prices but gets ripped off on little things like this, identical looking bushing(1) for my old Volvo track-beater(top engine mount) was around $30 for a Powerflex from local shop...
#15
Rennlist Member
I tried buying the torque solution unit recently and it is not being sold anymore until the newer version comes out. They are working on a better way to pour the polyurethane into the mount. I think it's a 60A or 70A shore hardness.
The GMG mounts are harder, 90A shore hardess, but have the "ears" on them, which I like, and prevent the mounts from weakening or coming out. However, I hate pressing out old bushings from aluminum.
Not sure which one I'll go with, maybe I'll wait for the next TS version, but definitely doing this mod.
The GMG mounts are harder, 90A shore hardess, but have the "ears" on them, which I like, and prevent the mounts from weakening or coming out. However, I hate pressing out old bushings from aluminum.
Not sure which one I'll go with, maybe I'll wait for the next TS version, but definitely doing this mod.