FS 3.8RS white 4000 miles limited time frame.
09-08-2012, 03:38 PM
#91
Addict
Rennlist Member
Rennlist Member
09-08-2012, 03:49 PM
#92
Nordschleife Master
I have a long list of witnessed GT3 and GT3 RS leaving a track day on a flat bed, disabled and undriveable on the trailer that brought them to the track. Many of the ones I have witnessed are regular posters here in RL.
I don't need to install monoballs, I don't need to replace a brand new clutch and pressure plate, I don't need to put on a brand new Limited Slip.
Do the math, $135k for a clean 2010 GT3 RS, then $25k on mods to make it Mancation capable, you forgot the 4.0RS clutch kit and PP so add another $4k for parts and labor, now you're near $165k, that's Scuderia price range.
My steel rotors installed this year are 405mm front and 350mm rear, front ones are thicker than my OEM CCB. Without any extra cooling, I ran the hottest track day at Sebring with zero brake fade, and now the car has the cooling ducts. My fastest Sebring laps are in 90+ degrees weather with 60% humidity, after a rain a few minutes before on a drying track, the car has a lot more in it (and even more with a better driver).
The stock Scuderia brakes give up too quickly, this is why it doesn't tolerate a long track session (unless you want to rear end all the Aero Beetles). Change the rotors, brake pads, add cooling, and problem solved. If I run on crappy tires, on a cold day, the brakes work just fine, they also work great for the average Fezza driver.
4.0RS are in the $200k range, add another $25k on mods (no need to replace clutch and PP), and you're on the $225k price range. The Scuderia needs much less, than $25 on safety modes, and you can ditch the stock CCB rotors in the used market for good money, so in the end you'll spend less than $10k making it track capable (safety, brakes and suspension updates).
The F430 Challenge (the race car) runs on the same engine and transmission as the street car, so the main vitals have been fully race tested around the world.
I have officially started saving for a scud...so checkmate reter
09-08-2012, 04:38 PM
#95
Rennlist Member
Dude, my car has seen more track time than most GT3 out there, it has never left a track day on a flat bed.
I have a long list of witnessed GT3 and GT3 RS leaving a track day on a flat bed, disabled and undriveable on the trailer that brought them to the track. Many of the ones I have witnessed are regular posters here in RL.
I don't need to install monoballs, I don't need to replace a brand new clutch and pressure plate, I don't need to put on a brand new Limited Slip.
Do the math, $135k for a clean 2010 GT3 RS, then $25k on mods to make it Mancation capable, you forgot the 4.0RS clutch kit and PP so add another $4k for parts and labor, now you're near $165k, that's Scuderia price range.
My steel rotors installed this year are 405mm front and 350mm rear, front ones are thicker than my OEM CCB. Without any extra cooling, I ran the hottest track day at Sebring with zero brake fade, and now the car has the cooling ducts. My fastest Sebring laps are in 90+ degrees weather with 60% humidity, after a rain a few minutes before on a drying track, the car has a lot more in it (and even more with a better driver).
The stock Scuderia brakes give up too quickly, this is why it doesn't tolerate a long track session (unless you want to rear end all the Aero Beetles). Change the rotors, brake pads, add cooling, and problem solved. If I run on crappy tires, on a cold day, the brakes work just fine, they also work great for the average Fezza driver.
4.0RS are in the $200k range, add another $25k on mods (no need to replace clutch and PP), and you're on the $225k price range. The Scuderia needs much less, than $25 on safety modes, and you can ditch the stock CCB rotors in the used market for good money, so in the end you'll spend less than $10k making it track capable (safety, brakes and suspension updates).
The F430 Challenge (the race car) runs on the same engine and transmission as the street car, so the main vitals have been fully race tested around the world.
I have a long list of witnessed GT3 and GT3 RS leaving a track day on a flat bed, disabled and undriveable on the trailer that brought them to the track. Many of the ones I have witnessed are regular posters here in RL.
I don't need to install monoballs, I don't need to replace a brand new clutch and pressure plate, I don't need to put on a brand new Limited Slip.
Do the math, $135k for a clean 2010 GT3 RS, then $25k on mods to make it Mancation capable, you forgot the 4.0RS clutch kit and PP so add another $4k for parts and labor, now you're near $165k, that's Scuderia price range.
My steel rotors installed this year are 405mm front and 350mm rear, front ones are thicker than my OEM CCB. Without any extra cooling, I ran the hottest track day at Sebring with zero brake fade, and now the car has the cooling ducts. My fastest Sebring laps are in 90+ degrees weather with 60% humidity, after a rain a few minutes before on a drying track, the car has a lot more in it (and even more with a better driver).
The stock Scuderia brakes give up too quickly, this is why it doesn't tolerate a long track session (unless you want to rear end all the Aero Beetles). Change the rotors, brake pads, add cooling, and problem solved. If I run on crappy tires, on a cold day, the brakes work just fine, they also work great for the average Fezza driver.
4.0RS are in the $200k range, add another $25k on mods (no need to replace clutch and PP), and you're on the $225k price range. The Scuderia needs much less, than $25 on safety modes, and you can ditch the stock CCB rotors in the used market for good money, so in the end you'll spend less than $10k making it track capable (safety, brakes and suspension updates).
The F430 Challenge (the race car) runs on the same engine and transmission as the street car, so the main vitals have been fully race tested around the world.
Did you install a roll cage or bar in your Scud?
09-08-2012, 04:47 PM
#96
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
Dude, my car has seen more track time than most GT3 out there, it has never left a track day on a flat bed.
I have a long list of witnessed GT3 and GT3 RS leaving a track day on a flat bed, disabled and undriveable on the trailer that brought them to the track. Many of the ones I have witnessed are regular posters here in RL.
I don't need to install monoballs, I don't need to replace a brand new clutch and pressure plate, I don't need to put on a brand new Limited Slip.
Do the math, $135k for a clean 2010 GT3 RS, then $25k on mods to make it Mancation capable, you forgot the 4.0RS clutch kit and PP so add another $4k for parts and labor, now you're near $165k, that's Scuderia price range.
My steel rotors installed this year are 405mm front and 350mm rear, front ones are thicker than my OEM CCB. Without any extra cooling, I ran the hottest track day at Sebring with zero brake fade, and now the car has the cooling ducts. My fastest Sebring laps are in 90+ degrees weather with 60% humidity, after a rain a few minutes before on a drying track, the car has a lot more in it (and even more with a better driver).
The stock Scuderia brakes give up too quickly, this is why it doesn't tolerate a long track session (unless you want to rear end all the Aero Beetles). Change the rotors, brake pads, add cooling, and problem solved. If I run on crappy tires, on a cold day, the brakes work just fine, they also work great for the average Fezza driver.
4.0RS are in the $200k range, add another $25k on mods (no need to replace clutch and PP), and you're on the $225k price range. The Scuderia needs much less, than $25 on safety modes, and you can ditch the stock CCB rotors in the used market for good money, so in the end you'll spend less than $10k making it track capable (safety, brakes and suspension updates).
The F430 Challenge (the race car) runs on the same engine and transmission as the street car, so the main vitals have been fully race tested around the world.
I have a long list of witnessed GT3 and GT3 RS leaving a track day on a flat bed, disabled and undriveable on the trailer that brought them to the track. Many of the ones I have witnessed are regular posters here in RL.
I don't need to install monoballs, I don't need to replace a brand new clutch and pressure plate, I don't need to put on a brand new Limited Slip.
Do the math, $135k for a clean 2010 GT3 RS, then $25k on mods to make it Mancation capable, you forgot the 4.0RS clutch kit and PP so add another $4k for parts and labor, now you're near $165k, that's Scuderia price range.
My steel rotors installed this year are 405mm front and 350mm rear, front ones are thicker than my OEM CCB. Without any extra cooling, I ran the hottest track day at Sebring with zero brake fade, and now the car has the cooling ducts. My fastest Sebring laps are in 90+ degrees weather with 60% humidity, after a rain a few minutes before on a drying track, the car has a lot more in it (and even more with a better driver).
The stock Scuderia brakes give up too quickly, this is why it doesn't tolerate a long track session (unless you want to rear end all the Aero Beetles). Change the rotors, brake pads, add cooling, and problem solved. If I run on crappy tires, on a cold day, the brakes work just fine, they also work great for the average Fezza driver.
4.0RS are in the $200k range, add another $25k on mods (no need to replace clutch and PP), and you're on the $225k price range. The Scuderia needs much less, than $25 on safety modes, and you can ditch the stock CCB rotors in the used market for good money, so in the end you'll spend less than $10k making it track capable (safety, brakes and suspension updates).
The F430 Challenge (the race car) runs on the same engine and transmission as the street car, so the main vitals have been fully race tested around the world.
You have broken down. If you spin in the grass under bottom defuser has to be dropped to clean out ducts.
What about all the over heating and limp mode warnings of the melting electronics?
By the time you add cooling, steel brakes and brake cooling , calipers?, roll bar, seat belts anti self ignite fire retardant bags, exhaust etc. you are well into 200k if you can find that imaginary 175k no stories scud.
Than it maybe will hold up to occasional half session runs. Until I see you drive at pace all sessions for the whole session weekend after weekend I am skeptical, but prove me wrong. See you at Chin oct nov dec at Sebring and PBOC Winterfest at Sebring only 10 track days in a row.
It would be great if you could prove it and show us the real running cost, but first you have to actually start running 200 miles per track day at speed, not 4 flyer laps and cool car down... I'm not a Porsche guy I'm a track guy. Id drive a corvette if it drove nicer and be more dependable and I could tell my neighbors I'm not a drug dealer if I bought a fiat I guess.
I am impressed how much room there is in a scud! But I would look weird with a bandana....
Or you can grab a aero beetle for 145 k and know it will run 20k miles weekend after weekend. If you want faster laptimes or a new challenge there's the GT2 RS..
The 200+k for a 4.0 is absolutely not worth it for performance, I just want one because they exist.
09-08-2012, 04:51 PM
#97
Nordschleife Master
Dude, my car has seen more track time than most GT3 out there, it has never left a track day on a flat bed.
I have a long list of witnessed GT3 and GT3 RS leaving a track day on a flat bed, disabled and undriveable on the trailer that brought them to the track. Many of the ones I have witnessed are regular posters here in RL.
I don't need to install monoballs, I don't need to replace a brand new clutch and pressure plate, I don't need to put on a brand new Limited Slip.
Do the math, $135k for a clean 2010 GT3 RS, then $25k on mods to make it Mancation capable, you forgot the 4.0RS clutch kit and PP so add another $4k for parts and labor, now you're near $165k, that's Scuderia price range.
My steel rotors installed this year are 405mm front and 350mm rear, front ones are thicker than my OEM CCB. Without any extra cooling, I ran the hottest track day at Sebring with zero brake fade, and now the car has the cooling ducts. My fastest Sebring laps are in 90+ degrees weather with 60% humidity, after a rain a few minutes before on a drying track, the car has a lot more in it (and even more with a better driver).
The stock Scuderia brakes give up too quickly, this is why it doesn't tolerate a long track session (unless you want to rear end all the Aero Beetles). Change the rotors, brake pads, add cooling, and problem solved. If I run on crappy tires, on a cold day, the brakes work just fine, they also work great for the average Fezza driver.
4.0RS are in the $200k range, add another $25k on mods (no need to replace clutch and PP), and you're on the $225k price range. The Scuderia needs much less, than $25 on safety modes, and you can ditch the stock CCB rotors in the used market for good money, so in the end you'll spend less than $10k making it track capable (safety, brakes and suspension updates).
The F430 Challenge (the race car) runs on the same engine and transmission as the street car, so the main vitals have been fully race tested around the world.
I have a long list of witnessed GT3 and GT3 RS leaving a track day on a flat bed, disabled and undriveable on the trailer that brought them to the track. Many of the ones I have witnessed are regular posters here in RL.
I don't need to install monoballs, I don't need to replace a brand new clutch and pressure plate, I don't need to put on a brand new Limited Slip.
Do the math, $135k for a clean 2010 GT3 RS, then $25k on mods to make it Mancation capable, you forgot the 4.0RS clutch kit and PP so add another $4k for parts and labor, now you're near $165k, that's Scuderia price range.
My steel rotors installed this year are 405mm front and 350mm rear, front ones are thicker than my OEM CCB. Without any extra cooling, I ran the hottest track day at Sebring with zero brake fade, and now the car has the cooling ducts. My fastest Sebring laps are in 90+ degrees weather with 60% humidity, after a rain a few minutes before on a drying track, the car has a lot more in it (and even more with a better driver).
The stock Scuderia brakes give up too quickly, this is why it doesn't tolerate a long track session (unless you want to rear end all the Aero Beetles). Change the rotors, brake pads, add cooling, and problem solved. If I run on crappy tires, on a cold day, the brakes work just fine, they also work great for the average Fezza driver.
4.0RS are in the $200k range, add another $25k on mods (no need to replace clutch and PP), and you're on the $225k price range. The Scuderia needs much less, than $25 on safety modes, and you can ditch the stock CCB rotors in the used market for good money, so in the end you'll spend less than $10k making it track capable (safety, brakes and suspension updates).
The F430 Challenge (the race car) runs on the same engine and transmission as the street car, so the main vitals have been fully race tested around the world.
You have broken down. If you spin in the grass under bottom defuser has to be dropped to clean out ducts.
What about all the over heating and limp mode warnings of the melting electronics?
By the time you add cooling, steel brakes and brake cooling , calipers?, roll bar, seat belts anti self ignite fire retardant bags, exhaust etc. you are well into 200k if you can find that imaginary 175k no stories scud.
Than it maybe will hold up to occasional half session runs. Until I see you drive at pace all sessions for the whole session weekend after weekend I am skeptical, but prove me wrong. See you at Chin oct nov dec at Sebring and PBOC Winterfest at Sebring only 10 track days in a row.
It would be great if you could prove it and show us the real running cost, but first you have to actually start running 200 miles per track day at speed, not 4 flyer laps and cool car down... I'm not a Porsche guy I'm a track guy. Id drive a corvette if it drove nicer and be more dependable and I could tell my neighbors I'm not a drug dealer if I bought a fiat I guess.
I am impressed how much room there is in a scud! But I would look weird with a bandana....
Or you can grab a aero beetle for 145 k and know it will run 20k miles weekend after weekend. If you want faster laptimes or a new challenge there's the GT2 RS..
The 200+k for a 4.0 is absolutely not worth it for performance, I just want one because they exist.
I'm going to look dope in my fiat
09-08-2012, 05:01 PM
#98
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
I stand corrected, here you go http://www.autotrader.com/cars-for-s...21584084&Log=0
But they sell them with 3 pedals, why did you not say so? That fixes half the "slow down" "hight temp" limp mode errors I bet
http://www.autotrader.com/cars-for-s...28781882&Log=0
170k makes it your I guess.
Anyone ever have a limp mode come on in a GT3? I don't even know if they do that?
They even sell convertible scuds!!!!
That's like selling a GT3RS convertible hahaha, I guess that says enough
But they sell them with 3 pedals, why did you not say so? That fixes half the "slow down" "hight temp" limp mode errors I bet
http://www.autotrader.com/cars-for-s...28781882&Log=0
170k makes it your I guess.
Anyone ever have a limp mode come on in a GT3? I don't even know if they do that?
They even sell convertible scuds!!!!
That's like selling a GT3RS convertible hahaha, I guess that says enough
09-08-2012, 05:39 PM
#99
Rennlist Member
If all you want is FAASST and runs forever then you should buy a Viper ACR, reliable truck motor, drivetrain and tons of downforce. Better a Viper 
before a Scud. 
No Porsche or Fiat tax on parts. 
Peter
before a Scud. No Porsche or Fiat tax on parts. Peter
09-08-2012, 05:42 PM
#100
Rennlist Member
What's the reason for that? Because Scud comes stock w/ the big CCB, right? Is that not up to the task?
Trackrats change out the Porsche PCCB mostly due to the replacement cost (or saving them for the next buyer.. hmm), but is that not the case w/ Scud's CCB setup? That there's actually a performance issue w/ it?
The stock Scuderia brakes give up too quickly, this is why it doesn't tolerate a long track session (unless you want to rear end all the Aero Beetles). Change the rotors, brake pads, add cooling, and problem solved. If I run on crappy tires, on a cold day, the brakes work just fine, they also work great for the average Fezza driver.
Trackrats change out the Porsche PCCB mostly due to the replacement cost (or saving them for the next buyer.. hmm), but is that not the case w/ Scud's CCB setup? That there's actually a performance issue w/ it?
The stock Scuderia brakes give up too quickly, this is why it doesn't tolerate a long track session (unless you want to rear end all the Aero Beetles). Change the rotors, brake pads, add cooling, and problem solved. If I run on crappy tires, on a cold day, the brakes work just fine, they also work great for the average Fezza driver.
09-08-2012, 05:46 PM
#101
Addict
Rennlist Member
Rennlist Member
You have broken down. If you spin in the grass under bottom defuser has to be dropped to clean out ducts.
What about all the over heating and limp mode warnings of the melting electronics?
By the time you add cooling, steel brakes and brake cooling , calipers?, roll bar, seat belts anti self ignite fire retardant bags, exhaust etc. you are well into 200k if you can find that imaginary 175k no stories scud.
Than it maybe will hold up to occasional half session runs. Until I see you drive at pace all sessions for the whole session weekend after weekend I am skeptical, but prove me wrong. See you at Chin oct nov dec at Sebring and PBOC Winterfest at Sebring only 10 track days in a row.
It would be great if you could prove it and show us the real running cost, but first you have to actually start running 200 miles per track day at speed, not 4 flyer laps and cool car down... I'm not a Porsche guy I'm a track guy. Id drive a corvette if it drove nicer and be more dependable and I could tell my neighbors I'm not a drug dealer if I bought a fiat I guess.
I am impressed how much room there is in a scud! But I would look weird with a bandana....
Or you can grab a aero beetle for 145 k and know it will run 20k miles weekend after weekend. If you want faster laptimes or a new challenge there's the GT2 RS..
The 200+k for a 4.0 is absolutely not worth it for performance, I just want one because they exist.
What about all the over heating and limp mode warnings of the melting electronics?
By the time you add cooling, steel brakes and brake cooling , calipers?, roll bar, seat belts anti self ignite fire retardant bags, exhaust etc. you are well into 200k if you can find that imaginary 175k no stories scud.
Than it maybe will hold up to occasional half session runs. Until I see you drive at pace all sessions for the whole session weekend after weekend I am skeptical, but prove me wrong. See you at Chin oct nov dec at Sebring and PBOC Winterfest at Sebring only 10 track days in a row.
It would be great if you could prove it and show us the real running cost, but first you have to actually start running 200 miles per track day at speed, not 4 flyer laps and cool car down... I'm not a Porsche guy I'm a track guy. Id drive a corvette if it drove nicer and be more dependable and I could tell my neighbors I'm not a drug dealer if I bought a fiat I guess.
I am impressed how much room there is in a scud! But I would look weird with a bandana....
Or you can grab a aero beetle for 145 k and know it will run 20k miles weekend after weekend. If you want faster laptimes or a new challenge there's the GT2 RS..
The 200+k for a 4.0 is absolutely not worth it for performance, I just want one because they exist.
Video Proof:
Why did the sensors burned out? because my Capristo exhaust pipes were shipped over 18 months ago without their insulation jackets (that I already pay for), the heat from the exhaust burned the sensors. The car just got the insulation jackets installed last week (Thanks Eddie!!!). With the insulation heat shields in place, the sensors would not have burned.
My Fiat has only overheated the brakes (known problem and fixed already), and this exhaust melting the electronics (my fault and Antonio Capristo's fault).
Dropping the diffuser takes 15 minutes. Cleaning the car after a spin on dry grass is mandatory on any car. Dry grass is flammable.
I'm doing Chin and PBOC Sebring, you're invited to join me at NASA Sebring in October and have a shot at the Sebring track record in TTU.
After 13,000 miles, my clutch has 38% life left, the spare kit has been sitting in my office for 3+ years, less than $2k on parts.
The cost of updates to the Scuderia for track day use is under $10k. No need to install my exhaust system, the stock one is fine, but it won't produce the power my car makes. The rollbar sells for $2k and bolts right on, with minimum modifications, I just found it a few weeks ago, and it will go in the car in the next few weeks. Stock seats are good for track use, similar in design to the stock 3.8RS seats. Seat harnesses are cheap, springs are cheap, rotors are cheap, pads are cheap, brake cooling ducts are cheap.
Ignore the asking prices on the Scuderia, pay attention to sold prices, auction prices, and trade-in value prices. Most asking prices are $10k-$30k too high.
09-08-2012, 05:51 PM
#102
Addict
Rennlist Member
Rennlist Member
I stand corrected, here you go http://www.autotrader.com/cars-for-s...21584084&Log=0
But they sell them with 3 pedals, why did you not say so? That fixes half the "slow down" "hight temp" limp mode errors I bet
http://www.autotrader.com/cars-for-s...28781882&Log=0
170k makes it your I guess.
Anyone ever have a limp mode come on in a GT3? I don't even know if they do that?
They even sell convertible scuds!!!!
That's like selling a GT3RS convertible hahaha, I guess that says enough
But they sell them with 3 pedals, why did you not say so? That fixes half the "slow down" "hight temp" limp mode errors I bet
http://www.autotrader.com/cars-for-s...28781882&Log=0
170k makes it your I guess.
Anyone ever have a limp mode come on in a GT3? I don't even know if they do that?
They even sell convertible scuds!!!!
That's like selling a GT3RS convertible hahaha, I guess that says enough
My custom exhaust would burn the same sensors on a 3 pedal F430, and the e-diff error will force a limp mode as well.
I would rather take limp mode as a preventive measurement to avoid damage to the car, than a car that breaks parts left and right with no warning. Every single GT3 and RS in the DE Cup Gold Cup and Platinum Cup has broken down, and they repair bills are $$$$.
09-08-2012, 05:58 PM
#103
Addict
Rennlist Member
Rennlist Member
What's the reason for that? Because Scud comes stock w/ the big CCB, right? Is that not up to the task?
Trackrats change out the Porsche PCCB mostly due to the replacement cost (or saving them for the next buyer.. hmm), but is that not the case w/ Scud's CCB setup? That there's actually a performance issue w/ it?
Trackrats change out the Porsche PCCB mostly due to the replacement cost (or saving them for the next buyer.. hmm), but is that not the case w/ Scud's CCB setup? That there's actually a performance issue w/ it?
Take a GT3 with PCCB or steel brakes, remove the stock brake cooling ducts, add sticky tires (Hoosiers), you will surely cook the brakes. Trakcar 2.1 was cooking the brakes at Mancation despite of having modified front cooling ducts, better front rotors, race brake fluid, good track brake pads.
The F430 Challenge comes with the brake cooling kit, these are straight installation pieces on the street F430 and 430 Scuderia.
Without adding brake cooling ducts, I fixed the brake issue by running a wider and larger front rotor, but just recently Orbit Racing added brake cooling ducts. The front brakes are the only problem, rear brakes are barely used.
Most Scuderia owners would claim perfection on the brake system, but it is hard to abuse the brakes going to Cars and Coffee.
09-08-2012, 06:49 PM
#104
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
3 pedals are in the F430, no Scuderia with 3 pedals.
My custom exhaust would burn the same sensors on a 3 pedal F430, and the e-diff error will force a limp mode as well.
I would rather take limp mode as a preventive measurement to avoid damage to the car, than a car that breaks parts left and right with no warning. Every single GT3 and RS in the DE Cup Gold Cup and Platinum Cup has broken down, and they repair bills are $$$$.
My custom exhaust would burn the same sensors on a 3 pedal F430, and the e-diff error will force a limp mode as well.
I would rather take limp mode as a preventive measurement to avoid damage to the car, than a car that breaks parts left and right with no warning. Every single GT3 and RS in the DE Cup Gold Cup and Platinum Cup has broken down, and they repair bills are $$$$.
How much labor to install the new clutch?
I hate them on the street, I tried using them on the track and I hated it... Maybe I just need to get used to it, but seems like less fun.
The only thing that breaks on a 3.8 is clutch and pp, about $2k in parts. The LSD is not up to par but that's only about $1500 installed.
A 3.8RS is about as fast as a stock scud with only durability upgrades right?
What is the NASA date?
09-08-2012, 06:56 PM
#105
Drifting
Not of my cars have "broken down". Not any of the 3 - not the 2010 GT3 nor either of the 2011 GT3Rs's. Each car has had a problems at the track that was human error - twice mine, once someone else. So far of 18k miles, at least 15k is on the track. Bullet-proof.
The 2010 GT3 did not "break down" - instead I over-torqued the centerlocks to 600 fp instead of 600 nm and I broke the hub.
The white RS did not "break down" at Road America - instead I money shifted it 3x and I broke off the flywheel.
The Silver RS did not "break down" at WGI a few weeks ago -- instead some idiot put the hose clamps on the radiator hoses on BACKWARDS.
These are so "bullet-proof" that I have named my latest RS "Silver Bullet"