Just making sure..TPM no effect on per
#1
Pro
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Just making sure..TPM no effect on per
Just wanting to double check.
If I have a set of tires and wheels with no sensor's----then I will of course get the stupid red exclamation mark, but there will be absolutely no decrease in a performance parameter-----right ?
2010 GT3
If I have a set of tires and wheels with no sensor's----then I will of course get the stupid red exclamation mark, but there will be absolutely no decrease in a performance parameter-----right ?
2010 GT3
#2
Burning Brakes
Join Date: Jun 2001
Location: juno beach, florida
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Subscribed. Have a set of trackwheels incoming and would prefer no sensors since they will start of every track session as "low pressure". But I kind of like them on my street wheels. On my RS.1 it was not an issue, but I've heard that on the 997.2 it would indicate them as "flat tire" if no sensors were present and turn on all the nannies. If this is the case I will have to turn on TPS all together to avoid the problem
#4
Nordschleife Master
Subscribed. Have a set of trackwheels incoming and would prefer no sensors since they will start of every track session as "low pressure". But I kind of like them on my street wheels. On my RS.1 it was not an issue, but I've heard that on the 997.2 it would indicate them as "flat tire" if no sensors were present and turn on all the nannies. If this is the case I will have to turn on TPS all together to avoid the problem
No decrease in performance
Or just turn them off
#5
Burning Brakes
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^^^^ good to know. I seem to remember that Reter at one point got a flat tire at Sebring, and computer quickly turned all the nannies on and saved him from potential damage.
#6
Rennlist Member
The car will turn on TC and SC only when ABS sensors (I guess) measure rotation is off. NOT TPS.
It will indicate you have a flat tire warning in red (Different from the regular warning.) and turn on TC and SC. This has nothing to do with TPM.
This happens when your tire is about to go flap flap flap. If you ever see the car turn its nannies on, its time to slow down and assume you are riding on the rim.
I tried to make them work. Better then the .1 version, but useless on the track.
I have them in my track only BBS and they go bad after just a few track days. Even when they are not bad yet they some quit working after 10-15 minutes and never work good again after, it will take long for the pressures to show up etc.
It's weird, sometimes I drive an entire weekend with 2 TPS working and they keep working until they go bad permanently. Others will come on during an easy ride to the gas station but die in the first lap.
My street wheels work perfect all the time every day and accurate too.
It will indicate you have a flat tire warning in red (Different from the regular warning.) and turn on TC and SC. This has nothing to do with TPM.
This happens when your tire is about to go flap flap flap. If you ever see the car turn its nannies on, its time to slow down and assume you are riding on the rim.
I tried to make them work. Better then the .1 version, but useless on the track.
I have them in my track only BBS and they go bad after just a few track days. Even when they are not bad yet they some quit working after 10-15 minutes and never work good again after, it will take long for the pressures to show up etc.
It's weird, sometimes I drive an entire weekend with 2 TPS working and they keep working until they go bad permanently. Others will come on during an easy ride to the gas station but die in the first lap.
My street wheels work perfect all the time every day and accurate too.
#7
Since my street wheels are my track wheels (OEM) I'll give my 2 cents:
For me they are very handy. You can check pressures while on the track so you know (of course you feel it too) when pressures get too high. The read-out is less precise than with a decent tool, but it is good enough to give an indication. When deflating/inflating I always use a tool to measure every tyre of course.
At the end of the track day just go in the TPMS menu and because it takes tyre temp into account it will tell you how much you need to add to each tyre to have correct street presssures. Usually it is around 0.7 bar for the rear and 0.5-0.6 for the fronts. The result is that when they cool down they are a lot closer to the correct street pressure compared to the "oh i'll put the rears on 3.0, that should be ok for when they cool down" way of setting pressures at the end of an event. It also doesnt matter if the car was standing for 5 minutes or 1 hour, TPMS will give you the correct value. And because it updates the values in real-time you can just connect any compressor and let it inflate the tyre whilst keeping an eye on the dash.
At first I thought it was a useless option, but since I didn't spec the car I got it anyway. Now I find myself using it quite a lot and I would spec it were I to order a GT3.
Also never have issues with non-working TPMS.
The only annoying thing is that when you go below -0.5 bar after temperature correction (so for instance a rear tyre at 2.0 bar hot on track, which is approx 1.6 cold and therefore -0.6 bar compared to street pressure) the system triggers a warning and you have an exclamation mark on the dash. What is even more annoying is that it will always happen during a run so for a fraction you are distracted by the error sound + the message on your dash. To make matters worse it does this for every wheel separately, so you end up getting an error 3-4 times on separate occasions. Every time I think something went wrong with the car, until I check the dashboard.
my 2cents
For me they are very handy. You can check pressures while on the track so you know (of course you feel it too) when pressures get too high. The read-out is less precise than with a decent tool, but it is good enough to give an indication. When deflating/inflating I always use a tool to measure every tyre of course.
At the end of the track day just go in the TPMS menu and because it takes tyre temp into account it will tell you how much you need to add to each tyre to have correct street presssures. Usually it is around 0.7 bar for the rear and 0.5-0.6 for the fronts. The result is that when they cool down they are a lot closer to the correct street pressure compared to the "oh i'll put the rears on 3.0, that should be ok for when they cool down" way of setting pressures at the end of an event. It also doesnt matter if the car was standing for 5 minutes or 1 hour, TPMS will give you the correct value. And because it updates the values in real-time you can just connect any compressor and let it inflate the tyre whilst keeping an eye on the dash.
At first I thought it was a useless option, but since I didn't spec the car I got it anyway. Now I find myself using it quite a lot and I would spec it were I to order a GT3.
Also never have issues with non-working TPMS.
The only annoying thing is that when you go below -0.5 bar after temperature correction (so for instance a rear tyre at 2.0 bar hot on track, which is approx 1.6 cold and therefore -0.6 bar compared to street pressure) the system triggers a warning and you have an exclamation mark on the dash. What is even more annoying is that it will always happen during a run so for a fraction you are distracted by the error sound + the message on your dash. To make matters worse it does this for every wheel separately, so you end up getting an error 3-4 times on separate occasions. Every time I think something went wrong with the car, until I check the dashboard.
my 2cents
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#8
Rennlist Member
I agree with all that.
How do you make them last??
I wonder if the after sales tps is a lesser quality?
Anyone have the latest part #?
I should have the 2010 OEM in my BBS, but 100 track days in the heat and +\- 15 sensors later none work still.
How do you make them last??
I wonder if the after sales tps is a lesser quality?
Anyone have the latest part #?
I should have the 2010 OEM in my BBS, but 100 track days in the heat and +\- 15 sensors later none work still.
#9
Rennlist Member
Have a set of OEM sensors in my track wheels and agree with everything ir_fuel said. They're well worth the $500 or so. I always track with the tire pressure screen right below the tach and find the constant feedback on the track real useful for gauging expected vs. actual tire performance.
To the OP's question, I've had all sorts of TPMS-related tire message from low pressure to flat tires to sensors not recognized and what not. None of them altered the car's handling behavior. A red exclamation mark on the dash IS a nuisance for me however, and I hate to have that mask any developing problems on the track so I do my best to clear the car of error messages before I give it the beans...
To the OP's question, I've had all sorts of TPMS-related tire message from low pressure to flat tires to sensors not recognized and what not. None of them altered the car's handling behavior. A red exclamation mark on the dash IS a nuisance for me however, and I hate to have that mask any developing problems on the track so I do my best to clear the car of error messages before I give it the beans...
#10
Rennlist Member
Have a set of OEM sensors in my track wheels and agree with everything ir_fuel said. They're well worth the $500 or so. I always track with the tire pressure screen right below the tach and find the constant feedback on the track real useful for gauging expected vs. actual tire performance.
To the OP's question, I've had all sorts of TPMS-related tire message from low pressure to flat tires to sensors not recognized and what not. None of them altered the car's handling behavior. A red exclamation mark on the dash IS a nuisance for me however, and I hate to have that mask any developing problems on the track so I do my best to clear the car of error messages before I give it the beans...
To the OP's question, I've had all sorts of TPMS-related tire message from low pressure to flat tires to sensors not recognized and what not. None of them altered the car's handling behavior. A red exclamation mark on the dash IS a nuisance for me however, and I hate to have that mask any developing problems on the track so I do my best to clear the car of error messages before I give it the beans...
I spent probably $1500 and none work anymore?
I'm on the same page as you, I hate messages!
#11
Rennlist Member
You're running something extreme there bro... I have slightly more than half your number of track days but am still on the first set of separately purchased TPM sensors for the track wheels. U sure other fellow RL'ers aren't torpedoing your rig when you're not looking?
For me I swap from street to track wheels, reset TPMS and the sensors get recognized within the out lap. End of a weekend I do the reverse, and again sensors get picked up before I'm even off the track premises. I store my wheels trackside when not in use so they're not constantly moved around (was told these beacons power off when not in use) but that alone shouldn't contribute to such a huge difference...
Are your rear sensors dying faster than the fronts? Just saying, temperature, shock, storage condition are some of the variables...
For me I swap from street to track wheels, reset TPMS and the sensors get recognized within the out lap. End of a weekend I do the reverse, and again sensors get picked up before I'm even off the track premises. I store my wheels trackside when not in use so they're not constantly moved around (was told these beacons power off when not in use) but that alone shouldn't contribute to such a huge difference...
Are your rear sensors dying faster than the fronts? Just saying, temperature, shock, storage condition are some of the variables...
#12
Rennlist Member
Sabotage is widespread ;-)
When I go from track wheels they pickup instantly, reverse takes a good 5-10 minute ride if they pickup ever. Fronts and rears die equally. I do park my car ever day next to all my track wheels, but never reset tps.. Still they never get used as many hours as my OEM wheels...
Maybe because we go out at 22 psi and they go up 12-14psi and overheat?
When I go from track wheels they pickup instantly, reverse takes a good 5-10 minute ride if they pickup ever. Fronts and rears die equally. I do park my car ever day next to all my track wheels, but never reset tps.. Still they never get used as many hours as my OEM wheels...
Maybe because we go out at 22 psi and they go up 12-14psi and overheat?
#13
Nordschleife Master
Maybe they struggle with extreme pressure difference and temp difference
Erik...u can use for street wheels and ignore on track....it's not hard to tell if a tire is going low, car drive like sh$t
I turned it off completely, lights annoy me
Erik...u can use for street wheels and ignore on track....it's not hard to tell if a tire is going low, car drive like sh$t
I turned it off completely, lights annoy me
#14
GT3 player par excellence
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randy is the fastest.
just turn it off permanently.
i did it on geisha and did it on killer wheel last week too.
just turn it off permanently.
i did it on geisha and did it on killer wheel last week too.
#15
Nordschleife Master