.1 RS or .2 GT3?
#1
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Well, I'm officially about to upgrade to a 997 GT3, and I'm looking for some advice on whether my money is better spent on a 997.1 RS or a 997.2 base GT3. If I went with the RS I would either get white or silver and I'd strip off the side decals, so the flashy bits are irrelevant--as is resale potential. Just looking for the best drive. Any thoughts from folks with experience are appreciated. Thanks.
#4
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Well, I'm officially about to upgrade to a 997 GT3, and I'm looking for some advice on whether my money is better spent on a 997.1 RS or a 997.2 base GT3. If I went with the RS I would either get white or silver and I'd strip off the side decals, so the flashy bits are irrelevant--as is resale potential. Just looking for the best drive. Any thoughts from folks with experience are appreciated. Thanks.
Track Use: 997.2 GT3 + Sport Buckets + PDEM
Cars and Coffee: 997.1 GT3 RS
Fun to drive: 997.2 GT3 + Sport Buckets + PDEM
Fast with lacking driving skills: 991S + PDDC + PDK + S-PASM + PTV + SC + PCCB
Best Resale: 997.1 GT3 RS
#5
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no question the .2 gt3 in my opinion
the 3.8 engine, better spring / shock setup, better aero,
find one with bluetooth
if the .1 RS was 'different' like the .2 RS is versus the .2 GT3 then I would say .1RS but it isn't
if the prices are close - my personal opinion is that the .2 GT3 would be the much better car
the 3.8 engine, better spring / shock setup, better aero,
find one with bluetooth
if the .1 RS was 'different' like the .2 RS is versus the .2 GT3 then I would say .1RS but it isn't
if the prices are close - my personal opinion is that the .2 GT3 would be the much better car
#7
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The Sport buckets give you better car feedback, even better if you take the lower cushion on track days. They also drop 34 lbs from the GT3.
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#10
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997.1 ONLY for the looks. They are awesome with the wide booty in the wild colors (green, orange).
The 997.2 is better both on track and street. Centerlocks being a deciding factor? No way. If you can afford a 100k car, you can afford a $1500 5 lug conversion.
The 997.2 is better both on track and street. Centerlocks being a deciding factor? No way. If you can afford a 100k car, you can afford a $1500 5 lug conversion.
#11
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I just went through the exact same situation. I found a great 997.1 RS at Carlson ( NorCal & I think it's still there). I drove it twice and it was a great ride. I also found a very nice 997.1 GT3 local car (SoCal). I eventually opted for the 2011 GT3 over the 2008 RS. I'm not a track junkie (a few DE's here and there) so my thought was to get the newest with the longest warranty. I will say the CL wheels almost kept me from the 2011 but in the long run I thought it was the best car for me. The bottom line is just get the one that fits your needs / wants the most and don't look back. You will be happy with either choice.
#12
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And you can forget using 6-point belts without the buckets. A must on trackdays IMO.
#15
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additional factors on your decision,
AFAIK, the 3.8 engines seem cured from the RMS oil leaks, while the 997.1 GT3 engines can still suffer from this until properly fixed (which is a black magic fix some shops have found through different attempts and they should keep confidential).
3.8 engines are less prone to break the coolant fittings, dump all the coolant, spin and cause other cars to spin, and possibly overheat the engine is no attention is paid quickly to the gauges. Personally, I don't know of any 3.8 engine with this failure, and there are plenty documented 3.6 with this failure.
A 2010 with the PCNA extended warranty is covered for 6 years and 100,000 miles, peace of mind, and warranty repairs free of cost, lower ownership cost.
AFAIK, the 3.8 engines seem cured from the RMS oil leaks, while the 997.1 GT3 engines can still suffer from this until properly fixed (which is a black magic fix some shops have found through different attempts and they should keep confidential).
3.8 engines are less prone to break the coolant fittings, dump all the coolant, spin and cause other cars to spin, and possibly overheat the engine is no attention is paid quickly to the gauges. Personally, I don't know of any 3.8 engine with this failure, and there are plenty documented 3.6 with this failure.
A 2010 with the PCNA extended warranty is covered for 6 years and 100,000 miles, peace of mind, and warranty repairs free of cost, lower ownership cost.