Rolling Fenders question?
06-08-2012, 12:04 AM
#17
Rennlist Member
I have done a DIY fender roll on my first track car (Cayman), and do not see anything different with the GT3. I just work on the car for fun – no professional experience or training. There are LOTS of things to consider, different front and rear issues. And after all that, when I was having minor cosmetic work done after an agricultural excursion, I had the fenders re-done professionally.
First, I used this tool from Eastwood. It requires a special adapter for Porsche wheel lug spacing.
Biggest issue in the rear – the joint between the fender (metal) and the bumper (plastic). Plastic does not “roll”. If you successfully roll the metal, it all comes to a stop when you get to the plastic bumper. The fender/bumper joint has a thick flange that cuts into a wider tire. My solution was to use a Dremel to cut the flange back to a minimum thickness, and cut the flange on the plastic bumper as thin as possible. I also caused some cracking in the paint. To reduce that (I learned), you should go very slowly and gradually, and USE A HEAT GUN to soften the paint first.
In the front, there are the same issues, with the addition of steering geometry issues. Unlike the rear, where the wheels stay tucked in the wells, the front wheels can turn. Even if you roll the fender and can tuck in a wider wheel going straight, when you turn the wheel, it will comes out of the well and will hit the fender. There is only so much you can do in the front.
The size wheel you can tuck in the rear also depends on the suspension linkage and the wheel size. You can probably get a wider 19” wheel and tire in versus 18", due to the slant of the wheel carrier.
First, I used this tool from Eastwood. It requires a special adapter for Porsche wheel lug spacing.
Biggest issue in the rear – the joint between the fender (metal) and the bumper (plastic). Plastic does not “roll”. If you successfully roll the metal, it all comes to a stop when you get to the plastic bumper. The fender/bumper joint has a thick flange that cuts into a wider tire. My solution was to use a Dremel to cut the flange back to a minimum thickness, and cut the flange on the plastic bumper as thin as possible. I also caused some cracking in the paint. To reduce that (I learned), you should go very slowly and gradually, and USE A HEAT GUN to soften the paint first.
In the front, there are the same issues, with the addition of steering geometry issues. Unlike the rear, where the wheels stay tucked in the wells, the front wheels can turn. Even if you roll the fender and can tuck in a wider wheel going straight, when you turn the wheel, it will comes out of the well and will hit the fender. There is only so much you can do in the front.
The size wheel you can tuck in the rear also depends on the suspension linkage and the wheel size. You can probably get a wider 19” wheel and tire in versus 18", due to the slant of the wheel carrier.
06-08-2012, 12:08 AM
#18
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
06-08-2012, 12:14 AM
#19
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
I have done a DIY fender roll on my first track car (Cayman), and do not see anything different with the GT3. I just work on the car for fun – no professional experience or training. There are LOTS of things to consider, different front and rear issues. And after all that, when I was having minor cosmetic work done after an agricultural excursion, I had the fenders re-done professionally.
First, I used this tool from Eastwood. It requires a special adapter for Porsche wheel lug spacing.
Biggest issue in the rear – the joint between the fender (metal) and the bumper (plastic). Plastic does not “roll”. If you successfully roll the metal, it all comes to a stop when you get to the plastic bumper. The fender/bumper joint has a thick flange that cuts into a wider tire. My solution was to use a Dremel to cut the flange back to a minimum thickness, and cut the flange on the plastic bumper as thin as possible. I also caused some cracking in the paint. To reduce that (I learned), you should go very slowly and gradually, and USE A HEAT GUN to soften the paint first.
In the front, there are the same issues, with the addition of steering geometry issues. Unlike the rear, where the wheels stay tucked in the wells, the front wheels can turn. Even if you roll the fender and can tuck in a wider wheel going straight, when you turn the wheel, it will comes out of the well and will hit the fender. There is only so much you can do in the front.
The size wheel you can tuck in the rear also depends on the suspension linkage and the wheel size. You can probably get a wider 19” wheel and tire in versus 18", due to the slant of the wheel carrier.
First, I used this tool from Eastwood. It requires a special adapter for Porsche wheel lug spacing.
Biggest issue in the rear – the joint between the fender (metal) and the bumper (plastic). Plastic does not “roll”. If you successfully roll the metal, it all comes to a stop when you get to the plastic bumper. The fender/bumper joint has a thick flange that cuts into a wider tire. My solution was to use a Dremel to cut the flange back to a minimum thickness, and cut the flange on the plastic bumper as thin as possible. I also caused some cracking in the paint. To reduce that (I learned), you should go very slowly and gradually, and USE A HEAT GUN to soften the paint first.
In the front, there are the same issues, with the addition of steering geometry issues. Unlike the rear, where the wheels stay tucked in the wells, the front wheels can turn. Even if you roll the fender and can tuck in a wider wheel going straight, when you turn the wheel, it will comes out of the well and will hit the fender. There is only so much you can do in the front.
The size wheel you can tuck in the rear also depends on the suspension linkage and the wheel size. You can probably get a wider 19” wheel and tire in versus 18", due to the slant of the wheel carrier.
06-08-2012, 12:36 AM
#20
Advanced
Back when there were no "fender rollers" all people (and raceteams) were able to get perfect fender roll and even a mild pull with a baseball bat and a heat gun (unfortunately it got a bad rap through the tuner car movement). Be careful with Alumium fenders as they tend to warp easier than with regular steel fenders. Not sure what material the 997 GT3 fenders are. Steel is definitely easier.
Paint tends to chip less when its brand new than when its older, but always be ready for it. It all takes time and heat. The guy rolling the fenders must know what he is doing too (and even then if you really roll the lips flat and pull them out to fit wider tires, small chance of not being perfect).
When me and a friend rolled the fenders on my Skyline GT-R (1994) with front AL fenders, one of the fronts slightly warped. We also got rid of the fender liners as they were pretty much useless (not useless on all cars).
Paint tends to chip less when its brand new than when its older, but always be ready for it. It all takes time and heat. The guy rolling the fenders must know what he is doing too (and even then if you really roll the lips flat and pull them out to fit wider tires, small chance of not being perfect).
When me and a friend rolled the fenders on my Skyline GT-R (1994) with front AL fenders, one of the fronts slightly warped. We also got rid of the fender liners as they were pretty much useless (not useless on all cars).
06-08-2012, 01:55 AM
#22
Addict
Rennlist Member
Rennlist Member
The Greek, what do you call RS tire sizes in your narrow body GT3? are you talking front or rear, what tire brand, model and size? You might not need to roll fenders at all.
My 996 GT3 (narrower than a 997.1 or 997.2 GT3) ran 18x10 and 18x12 on 285 and 335 Hoosiers, stock fenders.
My 996 GT3 (narrower than a 997.1 or 997.2 GT3) ran 18x10 and 18x12 on 285 and 335 Hoosiers, stock fenders.
06-08-2012, 02:25 AM
#23
Nordschleife Master
i have a roller and located in tampa, i have the neccesary high temp heat gun as well (gotta heat up paint so it bends and flexes and then when it cools its perfect forever.
i have the roller shown above, problem is your needing to "flare" the fenders, not roll them. rolling is when the fender is L shaped and you fold it into a U, flaring is when it's already a U shape like ours and you need to tilt that U..
widebody is .5" wider.. it might fit as is... depends on height of car and offsets
center of roller has a hole, and center lock has "stud pins" if u could figure a way to secure roller to the hub it would work...
i have the roller shown above, problem is your needing to "flare" the fenders, not roll them. rolling is when the fender is L shaped and you fold it into a U, flaring is when it's already a U shape like ours and you need to tilt that U..
widebody is .5" wider.. it might fit as is... depends on height of car and offsets
center of roller has a hole, and center lock has "stud pins" if u could figure a way to secure roller to the hub it would work...
06-08-2012, 03:30 AM
#24
Instructor
Join Date: Apr 2012
Location: Tampa, FL
Posts: 123
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
What are you laughing at? Pot, kettle, black. I'm pretty certain you two were the inspiration for this.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Xvl3q...feature=topics
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Xvl3q...feature=topics
No.......Yes!!
06-08-2012, 03:47 AM
#25
GT3 player par excellence
Lifetime Rennlist
Member
Lifetime Rennlist
Member
use the tool and do is SLOW. i mean SLOW, took my mechanic about 1.5 hours per fender. he knows i am ****. zero paint chip, no distortion, you would never know it's rolled and pulled.
i fit 9.5 on front of 6gt3. the rear, you need to cut off the flange at bumper.
get the paint hot and do it SLOW.
i fit 9.5 on front of 6gt3. the rear, you need to cut off the flange at bumper.
get the paint hot and do it SLOW.
06-08-2012, 08:43 AM
#26
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
The Greek, what do you call RS tire sizes in your narrow body GT3? are you talking front or rear, what tire brand, model and size? You might not need to roll fenders at all.
My 996 GT3 (narrower than a 997.1 or 997.2 GT3) ran 18x10 and 18x12 on 285 and 335 Hoosiers, stock fenders.
My 996 GT3 (narrower than a 997.1 or 997.2 GT3) ran 18x10 and 18x12 on 285 and 335 Hoosiers, stock fenders.
06-08-2012, 08:53 AM
#28
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
06-08-2012, 09:02 AM
#29
Rennlist Member
2010 RS
OEM 245/35ZR19 - Front. = 25.7OD 808 revs/mile
Option 19" Hoosier front:
235/35/19 = 25.5 = 815 revs/mile
265/35/19 = 26.3 = 790 revs/mile
OEM 325/30ZR19 - Rear. = 26.6OD 781.48 revs/mile
Option 19" Hoosier exist
18" RA1 NT01
245/40/18 = 25.6OD 812 revs/mile
275/35/18 = 25.6OD 812 revs/mile
335/30/18 = 25.9OD 803 revs/mile
18" R6
255/40/18 = 25.9OD 803 revs/mile
275/35/18 = 25.5OD
335/30/18 = 25.9OD 803 revs/mile
345/35/18 = 27.0OD 770 revs/mile
OEM 245/35ZR19 - Front. = 25.7OD 808 revs/mile
Option 19" Hoosier front:
235/35/19 = 25.5 = 815 revs/mile
265/35/19 = 26.3 = 790 revs/mile
OEM 325/30ZR19 - Rear. = 26.6OD 781.48 revs/mile
Option 19" Hoosier exist
18" RA1 NT01
245/40/18 = 25.6OD 812 revs/mile
275/35/18 = 25.6OD 812 revs/mile
335/30/18 = 25.9OD 803 revs/mile
18" R6
255/40/18 = 25.9OD 803 revs/mile
275/35/18 = 25.5OD
335/30/18 = 25.9OD 803 revs/mile
345/35/18 = 27.0OD 770 revs/mile
