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Just did my first brake change. Are you kidding in the rear caliper design?!?!?!?

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Old 03-07-2012, 12:54 PM
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LVDell
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Default Just did my first brake change. Are you kidding in the rear caliper design?!?!?!?

So I just got done with my first brake job. 99% of the brake work I have done is on mine (and friends) 6GT3s, Turbos and Carreras. Piece of cake on those cars.

However...........

The rear calipers on the 997 is absolutely the worst design. Is there a RATIONAL reason why they changed the design to make it where you need to remove the caliper to do a brake pad swap? I can see marginally stronger calipers with the two connecting pieces on top of the caliper but really, was lack of strength an issue???

And as far as these cars being designed for quick changes in the pits, this makes no sense and pretty much relegates all teams to QD brake lines and swapping entire assemblies instead of pads.

Rant over.....
Old 03-07-2012, 12:57 PM
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Serge944
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I agree...it's a dumb design. Race teams replace the entire caliper/pad assembly. The lines are on quick disconnects.
Old 03-07-2012, 12:58 PM
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LVDell
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This is seriously making me rethink my brake changes as it was a serious PITA. My shop partner (my 4 year old) was saying....."Daddy, why is this taking so long?"

I told him that PAG wasn't thinking clearly when they designed the new 997 caliper. He asked if he could go back inside the house and watch Cars2
Old 03-07-2012, 01:10 PM
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996FLT6
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Since u got more rear brake bias be prepared for more pad changes. Mike
Old 03-07-2012, 01:12 PM
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LVDell
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Is the bias from TC or brake booster or a combo of both? Reason I ask is I turn TC off.
Old 03-07-2012, 01:20 PM
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Bob Rouleau

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Dell, I share your pain. Stupid design compared to the earlier models. I have been told that with the improved bias (the 996 had way too much front bias) PAG decided they needed a more rigid caliper. So there went the bolt and cursed flat spring which allowed us to change pads without removing the caliper. Note, the bolts holding the calipers, front and rear are "one time use" stretch bolts. Just to add to the fun. That along with the stupid centerlock wheels makes changing pads an enduro. #$@!

Best,
Old 03-07-2012, 01:21 PM
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Originally Posted by LVDell
So I just got done with my first brake job. 99% of the brake work I have done is on mine (and friends) 6GT3s, Turbos and Carreras. Piece of cake on those cars.

However...........

The rear calipers on the 997 is absolutely the worst design. Is there a RATIONAL reason why they changed the design to make it where you need to remove the caliper to do a brake pad swap? I can see marginally stronger calipers with the two connecting pieces on top of the caliper but really, was lack of strength an issue???

And as far as these cars being designed for quick changes in the pits, this makes no sense and pretty much relegates all teams to QD brake lines and swapping entire assemblies instead of pads.

Rant over.....
Welcome to 2007 Dell.

Replace the bolts with studs, and it will make the job a lot easier. After a few rear pad changes, you'll be fixing stripped threads on the uprights, annoying to get fixed.

The studs will help you when replacing rotors too!

Run with TC off to avoid cooking the rear brakes.

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Old 03-07-2012, 01:36 PM
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Larry Cable
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Originally Posted by LVDell
Is the bias from TC or brake booster or a combo of both? Reason I ask is I turn TC off.
the bias is from the booster/system, TC simply invokes the rear brakes more often... I personally would not run TC "on" while on a dry track, wet is a different matter ...

you might also install .2 rear brake ducts while you are at it to increase cooling ...
Old 03-07-2012, 01:37 PM
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Originally Posted by Bob Rouleau
Dell, I share your pain. Stupid design compared to the earlier models. I have been told that with the improved bias (the 996 had way too much front bias) PAG decided they needed a more rigid caliper. So there went the bolt and cursed flat spring which allowed us to change pads without removing the caliper. Note, the bolts holding the calipers, front and rear are "one time use" stretch bolts. Just to add to the fun. That along with the stupid centerlock wheels makes changing pads an enduro. #$@!

Best,
Thanks Bob for the input.

Originally Posted by NJ-GT
Welcome to 2007 Dell.

Replace the bolts with studs, and it will make the job a lot easier. After a few rear pad changes, you'll be fixing stripped threads on the uprights, annoying to get fixed.

The studs will help you when replacing rotors too!

Run with TC off to avoid cooking the rear brakes.

Thanks Rad. Where does one buy a stud conversion kit?

And always, no TC!
Old 03-07-2012, 01:50 PM
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What's TC : )? Mike
Old 03-07-2012, 01:55 PM
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Apparently she also has another name called Nanny
Old 03-07-2012, 02:00 PM
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Originally Posted by LVDell
Where does one buy a stud conversion kit?
I had my shop get them from Porsche Motor Sports, wasn't expensive at all. I think about $100 for the parts (all corners).
Old 03-07-2012, 05:49 PM
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Help me out here guys. I haven't checked the bolts on my car (997.2 GT3) - are they Grade 10 or some other spec.? What grade are the studs to replace the bolts? Are they intended for multiple uses: removal and reinstallation of the calipers? I agree with Dell about the CLs - total PITA - they take forever to remove and reinstall as well as requiring an understanding wife to stand on the brakes during removal.
Thanks
Old 03-07-2012, 05:57 PM
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Originally Posted by C6 ZED
Help me out here guys. I haven't checked the bolts on my car (997.2 GT3) - are they Grade 10 or some other spec.? What grade are the studs to replace the bolts? Are they intended for multiple uses: removal and reinstallation of the calipers? I agree with Dell about the CLs - total PITA - they take forever to remove and reinstall as well as requiring an understanding wife to stand on the brakes during removal.
Thanks
The studs that I have are supplied by Porsche Motorsport, and are standard equipment on the Cup cars, as far as I understand, they are designed to have the calipers come on and off. I switched as I had a problem with my C2S where the caliper bolt stripped the threads on the knuckle while under heavy braking at the track. I managed to get the car into the pits without touching the brakes again, but as soon as I did, the caliper wedged into the wheel and did a bit of damage. I figure the $100 plus labour is cheap insurance against this happening again.
Old 03-07-2012, 07:37 PM
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Originally Posted by LVDell
Is the bias from TC or brake booster or a combo of both? Reason I ask is I turn TC off.
Brake bias is the the result of front/rear caliper piston areas, front/rear rotor diameters and pad friction coefficients.

996/997 do not use stepped master cylinders like some of the front engine cars. On those the stepped bores of the m/c also affects brake bias.

traction control doesn't affect brake bias at all, it does cause accelerated pad/rotor wear when it is engaged.


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