930man

lol....just so you know i thought wtf ... the 1st time i changed! see ya next week

v12man

So - with a little help from IPGuy

997 cup stud part numbers - please note I have never installed these, and its worth a check with Porsche motorsport that theya re correct - they are both strange sized studs - M12 x 1.5 on the wheel carrier side, and M10 x 1.5 for the nut end - this makes a certain amount of sense as the cap head on the normal bolt is quite small, and an M12 nut would probably be too big to fit:

These are all motorsport parts, and not generally available from the average Porsche centre.

Front
999 061 003 02

Rear
999 061 004 02

Nuts for the front and rear
999 076 083 01

So - who is going to be first?

deputydog95

I had mine calipers "upgraded" before the stud craze and went with time serts (http://www.timesert.com/).

Probably the same cost in parts but a little more pricey in labor...

What is the advantage of studs over the time serts?

And do you really need to change the caliper bolts each time you do a pad change???

911rox

Hey v12man, was just looking at the gt3 parts catalog, the hex bolts we currently use are also m12x1.5 with lengths 62mm (f) and 95mm (r). As long as these studs are the same we should be good. Only other prob I forsee is that our calipers are drilled for an m12 bolt. If these studs narrow to m10 too soon, the caliper may not align properly...

Can any of the fellas who have them fitted shed some light on how their calipers work with the thinner stud?

NorthVan

I have the studs, and they seem fine. Not sure what the shop that installed them did to compensate (if anything).

v12man

This picture is off a thread by oemexp - thanks Mark

You can see the stud quite nicely in the front wheel carrier.

You can see the base of the stud - the unthreaded part looks like it is 12mm, that will be fine to mount the caliper without play.

911rox

Perfect! That length of thicker stud will definitely position the caliper...

oebb

Hey Guys,

So I am about to replace the rear pads for the first time. If I get my hands on these parts instead of the caliper bolts:
999 061 004 02 (Studs)
999 076 083 01 (Nuts)

Will they be a direct replacement instead of the bolts or is there anything else that needs to change as well?

v12man

oebb - that should do it - you might want to get a couple of 10 x 1.5 nuts to use as a double nut to get the stud in place - you do not have to torque the stud down - just tighten it up reasonably firmly until it seats and can't be twisted out by hand should be good enough.

911rox

So V12man, they don't need to be loctited down to stop them from backing out thus preserving the thread?

v12man

You could locktite them down - but they will be a pain to remove/swap out because there is so much metal to heat up to remove them easily. I would do a simple test to see if the stud backs out or the nut comes undone first after being torqued to spec - if the stud backs out - locktite it will be.

I am not sure that locktite will survive the temp brakes get to in any case.

The important thing is NOT to torque the stud down too tight, it will keep turning until the stud bottoms out, and destroy the threads in the carrier with the unthreaded portion of the stud if the hole is too deep - and the object of the excercise is to avoid destroying threads.

If the stud bottoms out before the unthreaded portion gets into the aluminium, you could probably torgue it down, but I would check the depths with a micrometer first to get an idea of where it will stop, and plan from there.

Izzone

My studs came from orbit with Loctite on them already

deputydog95

So what advantage do the studs offer over time serts?

Mvez

is the torque spec for the nut still ~60 ft/lbs (after caliper is re-installed) ??

Mvez

that's where I'll be ordering my set from.