Mvez

Can you get back to -2 or -2.2ish rear camber with stock rear links (dogbones) and a ride height of 10-15mm lowered at both ends?

I'm using shims and have about -2.45 rear currently, so I would think it would be very do-able. I plan on eventually getting these, but trying to gauge about how low I can go, or how little camber I can run with stock rear links based on a pretty standard, track ride height setup (98-100mm front / 123-125mm rear).

I don't want to be in the middle of my re-alignment and find out we can't get to my new numbers by removing shims alone.

TRAKCAR

I had -2.5 with 10 mm lowered. .1rs as well.

BBMGT3

.1 here, can the car handle 10mm ride height reduction without issue? I would have thought that was a pretty big drop.. Isn't the car best at the OEM ride height?

TRAKCAR

10-15 mm can be better as long as the rake is maintained, all you need is shims.

Mvez

I know, but what I am asking is can less camber, i.e., -2.0, be achieved at this ride height with stock dogbones (and shims)? Or do I need to get a set of adjustable dogbones to get my camber back to -2 ish.

TRAKCAR

No adjustable dog bones needed. We treid all from -2.5 to -1.5 with oem.
As far as I know we all run stock ones, so should be OK for you.

NJ-GT

For clarification, the dog bones are the rear upper control arms, two pieces that looks like a dog bone when removed. They are non-adjustable, so no camber or toe can be set with the stock pieces.

The LCA (Lower Control Arm) is where shims are used to adjust camber. Be aware that removing shims will reduce camber, but also change toe drastically, so you need to re-align the car.

Every 1mm of shim changes camber by something close to 0.2 degrees (it is slightly less than 0.2 degrees).

Even running lower than stock by 10-15mm, and removing shims, you need to move the eccentrics pushing the LCA in, to get the camber you want, but it is easily achievable.

Mvez

Thanks guys. The shim relative to camber data was exactly what I was looking for, RAD to the rescue. I figured the eccentric on the LCA would give plenty of adjustment range for camber, but wanted to make sure.

I'm just going to add some locking plates to my toe links and be done with it, for now.

M3EvoBR

I only had problems with toe moving once, and after get the alignment properly done, never found locking plates necessary

Mvez

Thx, mine didn't change from the last alignment either, perhaps the precaution isn't necessary, will wait to be shown otherwise. BTW - the new avatar is awesome

lopro

wow great useful info nice work rad.

PLus1 M3evoBR - Love the new avatar also. RedRotorRule

Maybe not so fun to replace them at daytona when they are smoking hot and your burning your hands but damn, that is a nice pic for our viewing pleasures. Hell im frictionburnin over it right now
what a pleasure

M3EvoBR

I wouldn't bother. I don't think we have a bumpier track than Sebring and if it doesn't loose at Sebring won't loose it any where.
I use the upper control arms, just to get rid of the nasty rubber.
Tks for the complement. I got the pics from winterfest and pca

NJ-GT

Eddie, the stock eccentric bolts wear out with each alignment. They also wear the subframe. I had to replace a subframe due to new eccentric bolts/washers/nuts not holding the 74 ft-lbs torque anymore.

If using these eccentric bolts to adjust camber or toe, replace them every 8-10 alignments.

It is easy to determine when the bolts are done, the tightening nut will go beyond 74 ft-lbs and keep rotating with no change on retaining force (sort of a stripped tread).