Disc & Brake bed-in
#31
Race Director
The squeal is caused from the pad vibrating in the caliper as it rubs on the rotor. On stock pads they have weights on the pad to help balance this vibration out. Race pads don't have this.
#34
Pagid swap and go?
Hi guys. Im getting set for my last two track days of the season at Mid-Ohio and I just received my yellows from Craig. In asking him he said there was zero bed in needed swapping from stock to the 29's. This seemed odd to me but he swears this works. Anyone try the swap and go with the Pagids? Also he said to make sure the pads sit in the same position inside the caliper as the stocks. Again this seemed weird as I didn't realize you can mount them differently. This is my first time changing these out on this car and Id like to hear everyones input. thoughts??
#36
Thanks trakcar, that was my thinking as well. As for install that was my question, I've not heard of the ability to change pad position in the caliper. That was a new one to me. I'll install prior to driving down and and do the standard procedure on an empty road.
#37
Race Director
Ran PFC08 1st last weekend. I did not get much track time but I can tell these PFC08 pads kill Pagid Yellow and or blacks.
#38
Nordschleife Master
All I mean by that is that, when I put on the PFCs, the cracks in my ATE discs grew quicker, and when I put on a new set of discs, the cracking started sooner.
But I agree, I love the PFCs and will probably not go back.
#39
Rennlist Member
After two seasons of use (about 20 track days) with pagid yellow rs29 front & rear on 2011 Carrera S, my experience with bed-in, wear, and swapping back and forth between pagid and stock pads:
- I purchased GyroDisc rotors after first track day to preserve stock drill-through rotors. Porsche drill-through rotors will crack sooner than slotted. The GiroDisk rotor is very good and I would say I can get at least another 20 track days out of the front set. The rears will likely last double the front. Fronts have minor heat cracks, but both front and rear have negligible grooving and wear.
- I get about 3 to 1 wear on front pads versus rear. Rear still have 10mm of brake pad. I have replaced fronts once, and second set of front rs 29 pagids will need to be replaced in one or two more track days
- Pagid rs29 yellow in front and rs14 black in back may be the better way to go because the fronts tend to get hotter than rear, wear faster, and the fronts will begin to lock up before the rear wheels on dry surface. Either wider wheels up front or a bias valve would help, but the simplest solution may be to run the pagid blacks in back. I will try that next when the rear pads are at 5mm pad material.
- I first bedded in the pagid yellows on the stock rotors to heat up and season the pad. I did this per pagid instructions. Then I swapped out stock rotors for GiroDisc, and then bedded in rotors with seasoned pads per GiroDisc. Finally, I bedded in the pads again per pagid. The sequence introduces small amount of heat to rotors, and then more heat to transfer pad material to rotor.
- Subsequently, I have swapped in stock pads after track days. I no longer use the anti-vibration spider discs. They are a pain and are not really needed for the stock pads anyway. I sometimes get a little bit of squeal with stock pads, but not worth reinstalling the anti-squeal discs.
- I used to re-bed the pagids to the rotors after swapping out the stock pads. That does not seem necessary or useful. I have run the pagids on the street for a couple of weeks, but they start to squeal badly. I have tried beveling the leading and trailing edges but particularly on new thick pads, the pagids squeal. After heating up and transferring material to the rotors, the pagids squeal less, but when applied lightly they will still squeal.
In conclusion, the pagid yellow rs29 pads wear very well and are easy on the rotors. The GiroDiscs are great because they are bigger diameter than stock, however at the cost of GiroDiscs, replacing the stocks may be about as economical. This is hard to tell because the GiroDiscs may outlast stock rotors by 3 to 1. Just guessing based on what I have heard from other Porsche owners.
Also, I now believe that it is only necessary to bed-in the pads when they are new to prevent glazing, and it does not matter if the rotor has prior brake film on it. It will wear off, and if there is some judder, it will be very temporary. The bed-in procedure for pagid pads should heat them up sufficiently to ashen (burn off) two to three millimeters of paint on the edge of the pads where it contacts the rotors. Too little heat during bed in will cause the pads to be overheated during a full track session and cause glazing. Too much heat to the pads during bed-in will again cause glazing.
Bedding in pagids on way to track at lower speeds is no problem. Just increase the amount of medium stops and hard stops. For example, do 10 or 12 medium pressure stops from 70 to 40 mph, then do five or six hard stops from 70-40. Or do a couple of warm up laps during the first session at the track. It is not that critical as long as enough (but not too much) heat is transferred to the pads and then the pads are allowed to cool before attacking the track for a full session.
Bedding-in the rotor initially is also required so that the rotors are not introduced to too much heat initially, but it is not necessary to bed-in with used pads or the pad that will be used at the track.
- I purchased GyroDisc rotors after first track day to preserve stock drill-through rotors. Porsche drill-through rotors will crack sooner than slotted. The GiroDisk rotor is very good and I would say I can get at least another 20 track days out of the front set. The rears will likely last double the front. Fronts have minor heat cracks, but both front and rear have negligible grooving and wear.
- I get about 3 to 1 wear on front pads versus rear. Rear still have 10mm of brake pad. I have replaced fronts once, and second set of front rs 29 pagids will need to be replaced in one or two more track days
- Pagid rs29 yellow in front and rs14 black in back may be the better way to go because the fronts tend to get hotter than rear, wear faster, and the fronts will begin to lock up before the rear wheels on dry surface. Either wider wheels up front or a bias valve would help, but the simplest solution may be to run the pagid blacks in back. I will try that next when the rear pads are at 5mm pad material.
- I first bedded in the pagid yellows on the stock rotors to heat up and season the pad. I did this per pagid instructions. Then I swapped out stock rotors for GiroDisc, and then bedded in rotors with seasoned pads per GiroDisc. Finally, I bedded in the pads again per pagid. The sequence introduces small amount of heat to rotors, and then more heat to transfer pad material to rotor.
- Subsequently, I have swapped in stock pads after track days. I no longer use the anti-vibration spider discs. They are a pain and are not really needed for the stock pads anyway. I sometimes get a little bit of squeal with stock pads, but not worth reinstalling the anti-squeal discs.
- I used to re-bed the pagids to the rotors after swapping out the stock pads. That does not seem necessary or useful. I have run the pagids on the street for a couple of weeks, but they start to squeal badly. I have tried beveling the leading and trailing edges but particularly on new thick pads, the pagids squeal. After heating up and transferring material to the rotors, the pagids squeal less, but when applied lightly they will still squeal.
In conclusion, the pagid yellow rs29 pads wear very well and are easy on the rotors. The GiroDiscs are great because they are bigger diameter than stock, however at the cost of GiroDiscs, replacing the stocks may be about as economical. This is hard to tell because the GiroDiscs may outlast stock rotors by 3 to 1. Just guessing based on what I have heard from other Porsche owners.
Also, I now believe that it is only necessary to bed-in the pads when they are new to prevent glazing, and it does not matter if the rotor has prior brake film on it. It will wear off, and if there is some judder, it will be very temporary. The bed-in procedure for pagid pads should heat them up sufficiently to ashen (burn off) two to three millimeters of paint on the edge of the pads where it contacts the rotors. Too little heat during bed in will cause the pads to be overheated during a full track session and cause glazing. Too much heat to the pads during bed-in will again cause glazing.
Bedding in pagids on way to track at lower speeds is no problem. Just increase the amount of medium stops and hard stops. For example, do 10 or 12 medium pressure stops from 70 to 40 mph, then do five or six hard stops from 70-40. Or do a couple of warm up laps during the first session at the track. It is not that critical as long as enough (but not too much) heat is transferred to the pads and then the pads are allowed to cool before attacking the track for a full session.
Bedding-in the rotor initially is also required so that the rotors are not introduced to too much heat initially, but it is not necessary to bed-in with used pads or the pad that will be used at the track.
#40
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Summit81, thank you for your insight. I was just at Mosport and had new Pagid yellow RS29's on a new to me used 2010 997.2 S on the track. The first-morning session was very cold and rainy. I think this contributed to some uneven glazing which got worse over the weekend, to the point that I felt that I would not go out for the late afternoon sessions the next day. I did several bedding in stops yesterday hoping this will deal with the shutter.
We produced a couple of videos that may be of help to you. The procedures in these videos apply to pretty much any iron disc and pad setup. How hot you need to get the pads will vary, but the fundamental ideas remain the same:
__________________
'09 Carrera 2S, '08 Boxster LE (orange), '91 Acura NSX, Tesla Model 3 Performance, Fiesta ST
Jeff Ritter
Mgr. High Performance Division, Essex Parts Services
Essex Designed AP Racing Radi-CAL Competition Brake Kits & 2-piece J Hook Discs
Ferodo Racing Brake Pads
Spiegler Stainless Steel Brake Lines
704-824-6030
jeff.ritter@essexparts.com
'09 Carrera 2S, '08 Boxster LE (orange), '91 Acura NSX, Tesla Model 3 Performance, Fiesta ST
Jeff Ritter
Mgr. High Performance Division, Essex Parts Services
Essex Designed AP Racing Radi-CAL Competition Brake Kits & 2-piece J Hook Discs
Ferodo Racing Brake Pads
Spiegler Stainless Steel Brake Lines
704-824-6030
jeff.ritter@essexparts.com