UPDATED: GT Cars with accident repair history .... what is the discount?
#16
Also, are we assuming accident history but with clean title?
Again, I maintain that it depends on the type of repair work.
Given a $15000 repair bill, I would pay more for the car that had $15k worth of bolt on repairs versus a car that had $15k worth or quarter panel repair.
Again, I maintain that it depends on the type of repair work.
Given a $15000 repair bill, I would pay more for the car that had $15k worth of bolt on repairs versus a car that had $15k worth or quarter panel repair.
#18
Interesting question!
I am inclined to go with the following:
- Bolt on repairs (front fender, bumper, lights, rear bumper, decklid, exhaust, etc); no value destruction if replaced with brand new OEM parts. However, its true that the buyer pool will be reduced; but I think less so with GT cars since the buyers are usually pretty switched on about the cars
- Welding / chassis / suspension. Here its very hard to tell. The rear quarter panel on the GT cars is really annoying, because even a minor dent can only be repaired by slicing and welding, sanding and painting etc. Its less expensive than a decklid but is a fair bit of surgery on the car. Here I think you will have people who think it does nothing to the value all the way to those who say it takes 20% off the car.
Suspension damage is more serious and very expensive, because the damage can permeate all the way to the chassis sub-frame mounting points. I am not sure how you'd ever really be able to reliably ensure 100% that all is well, save completely stripping the car down and rebuilding it. Even then some may shy away from the "what if" factor
Finally, chassis. Chassis damage can range from a few mm in movement to many centimeters, plus the nature of the damage (bend, dent, tear, etc). Photographs of the before & after (with measurements) can help alleviate concerns, but it can still be a bit tricky.
It also depends on the buyers willingness to bear with the history - if he's planning to hold the car for many years, then maybe accident damage is not such a big deal. If the buyer has experience with history-cars, then maybe he's be more willing to overlook some things. Then, the car. Are we talking about a GT3RS thats hard to find in a great color? Or are we talking about a stock 997S that are a dime-a-dozen?
Just my $0.02...
I am inclined to go with the following:
- Bolt on repairs (front fender, bumper, lights, rear bumper, decklid, exhaust, etc); no value destruction if replaced with brand new OEM parts. However, its true that the buyer pool will be reduced; but I think less so with GT cars since the buyers are usually pretty switched on about the cars
- Welding / chassis / suspension. Here its very hard to tell. The rear quarter panel on the GT cars is really annoying, because even a minor dent can only be repaired by slicing and welding, sanding and painting etc. Its less expensive than a decklid but is a fair bit of surgery on the car. Here I think you will have people who think it does nothing to the value all the way to those who say it takes 20% off the car.
Suspension damage is more serious and very expensive, because the damage can permeate all the way to the chassis sub-frame mounting points. I am not sure how you'd ever really be able to reliably ensure 100% that all is well, save completely stripping the car down and rebuilding it. Even then some may shy away from the "what if" factor
Finally, chassis. Chassis damage can range from a few mm in movement to many centimeters, plus the nature of the damage (bend, dent, tear, etc). Photographs of the before & after (with measurements) can help alleviate concerns, but it can still be a bit tricky.
It also depends on the buyers willingness to bear with the history - if he's planning to hold the car for many years, then maybe accident damage is not such a big deal. If the buyer has experience with history-cars, then maybe he's be more willing to overlook some things. Then, the car. Are we talking about a GT3RS thats hard to find in a great color? Or are we talking about a stock 997S that are a dime-a-dozen?
Just my $0.02...
#19
Me? No, I am considering purchasing a dark grey 2007 GT3 for a trackcar which has had catagory 4 repairs - so I have a great interest in other possible 2007 GT3's too, hence the hard questions to the OP in another thread (well answered in the end).
My current 2010 GT Silver GT3 in my avatar with CL to 5 lug conversion and +$25K of other perf goodies will be for sale in about 2-3 weeks in the classifed section. Feel free to PM for pre-info, but I will be out of town with limted access.
Now back to the estimated discount topic.....
Cheers!
Doug N
My current 2010 GT Silver GT3 in my avatar with CL to 5 lug conversion and +$25K of other perf goodies will be for sale in about 2-3 weeks in the classifed section. Feel free to PM for pre-info, but I will be out of town with limted access.
Now back to the estimated discount topic.....
Cheers!
Doug N
#21
#22
Time for a more disposable track car! Also, I am considering changing my 997.2 GT3 into two cars. Something fun and German for the street in Calgary(our local track just closed last season), and hopefully a track dedicated 997.1 for the new house down south (the house was never in my plan....until last year), but the southwest USA is a track guy's Disneyland....so there's a bonus.
Now back to your comments above, the other major difference between the 997.1 and 997.2 GT3 is chassis set up.....that's where those precious lap time savings are really happening. I'm seeing a full motorsport suspension set up on a 997.1 GT3, and I am looking for a deal in the "de-valued" 997.1 GT3 market (repaired or "converted") to use as a starting point. Maybe a bit of stripping too Mooty , a 996 GT3 is not out of the question either.
Cheers!
Doug N.
#23
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given equal mods the 7.1 isn't much faster than 6gt3, faster yes, not much. it cost a bunch more though.
yes, you are correct. if you drive long enough, you WILL hit something. if you are dumb like me, you will hit many things many times and write off many cars, speaking from experience. if you cannot walk away with a chuckle in your track car, dont track it. after i wrote off my last toy, i stayed at track bench racing with my buds and had some great dinner (if you can call track food GREAT).
yes, you are correct. if you drive long enough, you WILL hit something. if you are dumb like me, you will hit many things many times and write off many cars, speaking from experience. if you cannot walk away with a chuckle in your track car, dont track it. after i wrote off my last toy, i stayed at track bench racing with my buds and had some great dinner (if you can call track food GREAT).
#25
given equal mods the 7.1 isn't much faster than 6gt3, faster yes, not much. it cost a bunch more though.
yes, you are correct. if you drive long enough, you WILL hit something. if you are dumb like me, you will hit many things many times and write off many cars, speaking from experience. if you cannot walk away with a chuckle in your track car, dont track it. after i wrote off my last toy, i stayed at track bench racing with my buds and had some great dinner (if you can call track food GREAT).
yes, you are correct. if you drive long enough, you WILL hit something. if you are dumb like me, you will hit many things many times and write off many cars, speaking from experience. if you cannot walk away with a chuckle in your track car, dont track it. after i wrote off my last toy, i stayed at track bench racing with my buds and had some great dinner (if you can call track food GREAT).