UPDATED: GT Cars with accident repair history .... what is the discount?
#1
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See update to this in Post #7
Hi All,
As the topic states: What is the approx market discount on a car that has a "blackmark" on it. Say a given GT2/3/RS with an accident history of greater than $10000 in repairs and paint work?
I'll guess -35% from market.
Cheers!
Doug N.
Hi All,
As the topic states: What is the approx market discount on a car that has a "blackmark" on it. Say a given GT2/3/RS with an accident history of greater than $10000 in repairs and paint work?
I'll guess -35% from market.
Cheers!
Doug N.
Last edited by DJN; 01-31-2012 at 05:38 PM.
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10k repairs is nothing. Someone backing into you in a parking lot and cracking your decklid is 10k+ accident.
If repaired properly, I would say hardly anything. You reduced your buyer pool because some people won't touch a car with accident history, but I don't think you necessarily devalue the car all that much. Again, if everything is done just right.
If repaired properly, I would say hardly anything. You reduced your buyer pool because some people won't touch a car with accident history, but I don't think you necessarily devalue the car all that much. Again, if everything is done just right.
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I think it depends on the type of repair. A deck lid, bumper cover, fenders, doors, are all bolt on affairs. Where as a quarter panel requires celette jig, drilling spot welds, welding on new one, applying seal sealer, and it will never be as good as the original, and there will always be a bit of moisture/exposure to the elements.
The repair bill might be similar, and the shop might bring the paint thickness to match the original, but I would value the car quite differently based on what type of repairs its had.
The repair bill might be similar, and the shop might bring the paint thickness to match the original, but I would value the car quite differently based on what type of repairs its had.
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depends on the repair......
Some things are easier to correct than others.
Bumpers and fenders are expensive but easy. Front and rear damage is straight forward fix if not too hard of impact.
Side impacts are not pretty even when repaired however.
My last RS only had rear impact and was driven away. Straight forward repair with factory parts but costly to do it right. It always has to be done right no matter what the cost. The car is perfect other then it is no longer 100% factory paint.
Some things are easier to correct than others.
Bumpers and fenders are expensive but easy. Front and rear damage is straight forward fix if not too hard of impact.
Side impacts are not pretty even when repaired however.
My last RS only had rear impact and was driven away. Straight forward repair with factory parts but costly to do it right. It always has to be done right no matter what the cost. The car is perfect other then it is no longer 100% factory paint.
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Ok, more details are definately required, but let's generalize like this then:
1) Minor cosmetic repairs $3000 to $10000
2) More repairs (body and suspension or other bolt on), but no structural issues $10000 to $20000
3) Structural (welding required) and more serious repairs valued at $20000 to $40000
4) Major repairs (i.e. not quite an insurance write off) over $40000
Now what would you discount for 1, 2 ,3, and 4 ????
I'll try again and guess:
1) -5%
2) -10%
3) -20%
4) -35% maybe even -40%
Go on give it a whirl !!! Or let's hear some more comments.
Cheers!
Doug N.
PS. I am considering a 2007 GT3 in the number "4" catagory for a "trackmobile" and need your input.
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Last edited by DJN; 01-31-2012 at 06:25 PM.
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#8
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Based upon an actual transaction (mine) of only a month ago I can tell you that #2 = 15% off wholesale value. I marketed as hard as anyone could and that is the number.
Therefore I would say #3 = 25% and #4 = 35%+
Therefore I would say #3 = 25% and #4 = 35%+
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It gets confusing. If a rear fender is dented, and the body shop thinks it is better to mount a new fender than try to mess with the dented one, that would require welding, but it isn't clear how you would treat that damage in your model, unless you go strictly by dollar value of the repair.
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I doubt anyone would agree to discount a vehicle that was repaired to specs 35% or even 20% as long as the integrity of the tub was not compromised .....
As far as moisture/ exposure to elements ...the RS does not have factory rust protection...but I am not sure of the rest of GT family.
As far as moisture/ exposure to elements ...the RS does not have factory rust protection...but I am not sure of the rest of GT family.
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there is not really a formula we can follow for discounting an accident repaired vehicle. ![Smilie](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/smilies/smile.gif)
If you are looking at a major accident repaired 2007 GT3 to become a stripper track car than i would start by looking at the car if it was market value and then discounting from there....
So an average 2007 GT3 would be $70k.
If no tub damage but full restoration being #4 as described I would have to say max $50k if everything is well sorted and working.
If the car is gutted and rode hard put away wet then that number will dip into the $40s......
If the car was seriously hurt, not many people will want it for only a 10-15k discount no matter how well it was repaired.
20k will typically perk ones interests as it is a significant number.
Would the car happen to be red by any chance?
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If you are looking at a major accident repaired 2007 GT3 to become a stripper track car than i would start by looking at the car if it was market value and then discounting from there....
So an average 2007 GT3 would be $70k.
If no tub damage but full restoration being #4 as described I would have to say max $50k if everything is well sorted and working.
If the car is gutted and rode hard put away wet then that number will dip into the $40s......
If the car was seriously hurt, not many people will want it for only a 10-15k discount no matter how well it was repaired.
20k will typically perk ones interests as it is a significant number.
Would the car happen to be red by any chance?
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If the car can hold a professional wheel alignment without massive shims then you are good to go!
Remove the sunroof, gut the sucker and install a full clubsport cage!
vola! track ***** with a title!
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